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416 LS3 Build Underway (Pics inside)

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Old 06-22-2015, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
Do those T&Ds require any clearancing? I heard they redesigned them back a few years ago to make them fit a little easier under valve covers and the geometry got weird. That might have been on the LS1, though. With those, you have to clearance the head (slot the pushrod hole at the top) to allow the pushrod to move in a bit of an arc back and forth. I wonder if that's been fixed or if it's still an issue? Otherwise, the T&Ds are

great.
Good to know Jake, but I haven't gotten that far yet in assembly. It looks to be pretty good so far mocked up. Will see. Thanks.
Old 06-22-2015, 10:38 PM
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you are right we are trying to about the same thing.guess we gonna have to become engine blood brothers...lol and i need to wear you pants on Fridays too...lol
Old 06-22-2015, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
Jimbo, I tried just putting the stock valve covers on and it won't even sit at all. And this is just mocking it up. I'm sure it will require a 3/4"-1" spacer if using stock covers.
I see you are use Mast heads. I wonder if there is any difference in that area over the factory LS3 heads. Also I wonder if the T&D shaft rockers for the Mast heads are different than those for the LS3 head?

Last edited by 1989GTA; 06-23-2015 at 12:46 PM.
Old 06-23-2015, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
I see you are use Mast heads. I wonder if there is any difference in that area over the factory LS3 heads. Also I wonder it the T&D shaft rockers for the Mast heads are different than those for the LS3 head?
As mentioned on another thread, valve cover rails are taller than stock. I don't know for sure since I have never owned one and this is my first and only LS build. I believe T&D makes a different part# for the stock LS3 heads. The T&D #2353 I have on hand are specifically for MAST medium bore heads, whether it is their LS3 medium bore or their LS7 medium bore. Give Kip@CamMotion a call, he'll set you up on the right sets.
Old 06-23-2015, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
Very nice. Any idea if a stock valve cover will fit with the T@D rocker arms? If not how much clearance do you think it would take?
Zero chance opps sorry...
Old 06-23-2015, 02:00 PM
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^ Correct not even close. Holley LS valve covers may work as well, being a lower profile than ProForm or MAST.
Old 06-23-2015, 03:19 PM
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I do have the Holley valve covers. So maybe along with the thick Yella Terra valve cover gasket that might work.
Old 06-23-2015, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
I do have the Holley valve covers. So maybe along with the thick Yella Terra valve cover gasket that might work.
They will if you remove the baffle are real with and have tools I know because is all I like to use.

With the Mast heads after the work out they bolt rite up, with the Trick flow heads will need to add the Yella terra spacer gaskets.
Old 06-25-2015, 06:13 PM
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I'm really liking those polished ProForm LS valve covers more and more. I think it will add the look I'm looking for.

I have been giving some thought about running a TH400 for this build when its done. The car already has a Strange S60 with a 35 splined, spooled 4.56 gear in it. What do you guys think?

Last edited by BOLO; 06-25-2015 at 08:33 PM.
Old 06-25-2015, 09:16 PM
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I'm thinking you'll blow the tires away with that 4.56 rear screw.
THM400 with a 2.10 low would work real nice as it evens out the rpm drop/recovery on both shift changes.....just a thought
Old 06-25-2015, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
I'm thinking you'll blow the tires away with that 4.56 rear screw.
THM400 with a 2.10 low would work real nice as it evens out the rpm drop/recovery on both shift changes.....just a thought
I also have a 4.10 gear in hand, as well. Do you think the 2.48 first gear of the 400 is still too much? Thanks for the info man.
Old 06-26-2015, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
All I need now are ARP head studs and I should be golden for final assembly. Custom length pushrods will follow.
Was the block not line bored with head studs?
Old 06-26-2015, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Was the block not line bored with head studs?
What's the significance Martin? I have to find out and call Speed Inc.
Old 06-26-2015, 10:50 AM
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Roundness of the cylinder... if you hone without a BHJ torque plate to simulate the head (specifically the way studs distribute the clamping force) then you could have an out-of-round issue.
Old 06-26-2015, 11:27 AM
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Ok, back to the subject on whether the block was line honed/bored with torque plates,,, Speed Inc says YES of course, all of their short blocks.
So now I can either go with ARP head studs or ARP head bolts.

Last edited by BOLO; 06-26-2015 at 07:29 PM.
Old 06-26-2015, 07:39 PM
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Studs. Answer is always studs.
Old 06-26-2015, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
I also have a 4.10 gear in hand, as well. Do you think the 2.48 first gear of the 400 is still too much? Thanks for the info man.
I'm assuming you're running a 28 inch tall slick; although a 29/29.5" would be better for you IMO
The 2.48 by 4.10 is a great launch combo but the 4.56 with the evenly spaced 2.1/1.48/1.0 makes for less tire shudder on gear changes, better rpm recovery, and less chance for detonation....especially if using a power adder

Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Was the block not line bored with head studs?
VERY valid point

Originally Posted by BOLO
Ok, back to the subject on whether the block was line honed/bored with torque plates,,, Speed Inc says YES of course, all of their short blocks.
So now I can either go with ARP head studs or ARP head bolts.
bolts do clamp differently than studs...PERIOD
perhaps neither would change the main housing bore enough to matter once the bearing shells are in place but should be verified
From what I've read, the GM engineers specifically used threads in lower cylinder casing design because it minimized the cylinder liner distortion when running tight fitting factory hypereutectic pistons.
Old 06-27-2015, 03:04 PM
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^ Thanks for the TH400 gearing suggestion, I appreciate it very much. Do you run a Th400 yourself? Sounds like you're very familiar with the trans.
And ARP head studs are on their way. Thanks
Old 06-29-2015, 12:26 PM
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The only reason I asked that is because you said, "All I need are head studs to finish."

Whenever we build an engine, if the engine is going to have head studs used, we line bore the engine with the customers head studs.

I guess they have a set that they use instead.
Old 06-29-2015, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
^ Thanks for the TH400 gearing suggestion, I appreciate it very much. Do you run a Th400 yourself? Sounds like you're very familiar with the trans.
And ARP head studs are on their way. Thanks
I don't run one anymore....last time was 06 with a mid nine second 79 Malibu; then my pocket book tapped out....just have several buddies who stuck with it and are now running sevens and eights. They've tried every conceivable glide/turbo combination and several have come back to the most consistant/tunable/predictable combo being the 2.1 geared 400. If they try running 1.80 or 1.69 glides; then the convertor really gets murdered on both the launch and gear shift. While these examples do have more power than you, the cars are small tired drag radial and/or 28 X 10.5 type combos....FWIW


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