degreed

Posting this to make others aware of problem just experienced;

We road race a LS powered chassis car, set 2 track records last year in class, decided to move up a class so built new motor.

Engine assembled and dynoed (just over 800HP NA, took car to track to test, ran about 30 minutes total after a few sessions, car was run easy on short track, then noticed oil pressure getting quite low. After returning to shop, pulled dry sump return oil filter to find bearing material.

What was found after removing oil pan - main bolts pulling out of block, caps walking..... who knows if run 1 more or 10 more minutes entire assembly would have been destroyed.

Of course - RHS/Comp company policy when calling with a problem is "This is the first time to hear this". Secondly I never received a return phone call from anyone. This is Corporate America for you, bean counters trying to save a dollar, will cost them $1000's in long run.

LME in Houston says the last 3 RHS blocks they have used required re-tapping and helicoiling mains, they no longer use RHS (mostly DART) and RHS/Comp has TERRIBLE customer service and wont stand behind product.

LME Says they no longer use COMP Cams either, cams would start flaking on lobes, exact same response from COMP.....

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Any pics?

First I've heard of this as well.

degreed

Sorry no pics.... Just bills to pay to repair POS Block. We should have consulted with a few people before purchasing. Jud at SAM said the few blocks they tried had issues as well.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

The guys at Wegner machined the first RHS blocks.

I too have used these blocks with great results.

THUS I STATE RHS "bullshit", I use 80 .lbs as was told by CARL.

This is what I call "FRAUD" !

NOW the CAUSE, as I HAVE STATED the ARP main stud bolt torque, as stated ny ARP = 100 .lbs.
They NEVER ask if Alum/Iron.

NEVER use studs in AL LS-x blocks @ 100 .lbs. (standard bolt size)

My customer Dave Hartz, Water Thunder, agrees with RHS block use as well.

Lance
, "

Kamaro

I built a LS-3 based 416 two years ago using ARP main studs, and I was shocked when I pulled out the threads on about half the bolt holes! (both main and head bolts), I thought I might have a bad block, so I just drilled them all out and used Time-Sert inserts in all of the main and head bolt threads. I never know that what ARP is recommending as final torque is for iron blocks only.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I've torqued ARP main studs in literally hundreds of LS blocks and never pulled the threads. They only go to 60ft-lbs on the inners and 50ft-lbs on the outers. Where did 80-100ft-lbs come from?

Last 1

iTrader: (2)

listen to KCS thanx 60 FT-LBS inners/50FT-LBS outer

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

OK, A fair question "where", MY instruction sheet supplied FROM RHS.

I too knew this was too great, never tried that value.

I too agree with KCS with the LS "low grade" AL, not with 356.

MY normal RHS main torque is also "lower" on the outside studs, agree.

Lance

KCS

iTrader: (20)

You're saying RHS sent instructions to torque the ARP main studs to 80-100ft-lbs?

Double06

I think also the bolts sizes on these blocks are different than stock. The stock ones I think are 10 mm whereas I see the aftermarket block DART and Warhawk are 7/16 whichis around 11mm. So a little bigger bolt also. Not sure what the RHS stud sizes are? I see the 50/60 on the factory number 234-5608. The 7/16 calls for 80 ft pounds and are DART and Warhawk specific which are both aluminum I think.