99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

This is what my GMPP port heads with stock valves flowed.
radius on intake port. No pipe on exhaust. 4 inch bore @ 28
I think the results were very good for what they cost.
It's my understanding LPE did the CNC port work.

Lift----Intake -----Exhaust
.100-- 64.4 ---44.3
.200-- 134.5 --112
.300-- 198 ----162
.400 --246.5-- 190
.450 ---267 ----197
.500 --281 -----203
.550 --295.8-- 211
.600 --305----- 214
.650-- 285------218

Brian Tooley/TEA did the heads currently on my 99TA and he did lovely hand finished "Judson Massingill Spec" TEA S2.5 LS6's w/NOS exhaust port on my 91 RS. Basically the stage 3 with best valve for 3.9 bore. I'm I big TEA/BTR fan. I would happy go with TEA/Brian on another project at some point. My 99TA has 127,000 + miles on its TEA S2 5.3's

Brett is top notch with cylinder heads based on my research, you don't get to do R&D at Katech on heads unless you have talent. I think Brett will made several improvements to the heads. We had a nice long discussion a few weeks ago..

The dimple port would be very cool, my budget may not allow for that level of cool. I forgot to ask about that today when we talked will ask next time.

For my set up and goals (cathedral heads, daily driver, under 7000 rpm) Brett favors a 102 LSXR intake. This jived with what Wegner said when I learned my budget wasn't sufficient for a Wegner 427 w/ported LS7's , ported MSD.



Brett has a larger valves planned, his custom designed excide's.
I'm inclined to let him do his thing with the heads and not try to 2nd guess.
I hope I can squeeze in the LSXR and let him port it.
Otherwise, I will be using the Dorman LS2 in the flow test thread.
​​

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Brett and Mike @ Norris Motorsports will make the final call on the cam. Mike has to tune this engine so we will value his input too. I agree completely with head Porter has best understanding of how his heads flow.
Brett and I had some fun discussion about a new cam for my white RS with the 383 LS1. He explained exactly what his thoughts were with the specs suggested.

My budget will decide the dimple port. I want to do that but forgot to discuss with Brett today. Biggest concern is making sure the castings don't leak and pass pressure test. We also have to keep the compression 93 octane friendly. The small chamber on a big bore are of some concern.

Intake ideally wouldn't be a Brett ported LSXR but I have to see what my budget is looking like as we get to that point. If I'm tight on cash at that point the Dorman LS2 will have to go on the engine for a year or so.

Regarding the 8.8 rear, when my 91 RS got the resto-mod 383 LS1 / T56 swap we used a Hawk's Motorsports 8.8 and I'm very happy with it. I wrote this review for the 3rd Gen forum.

In short it's a great solution for what I will do with them car.
​​​​​​It can take 1000hp and 6000 rpm clutch dumps on slicks - hard to beat for the cost.
I will never push it that hard. I don't worry about breaking it at all - unlike the 10 bolt. Lot of good info in the thread. One person found out building their own 9 inch wasn't really a bargin.
​
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ports-8-a.html

The Good News

New rear is in TA!
My drive shaft seems to be have issues, think we are going to have to send it out to be checked.

ERL 416 arrived at Norris Motorsports today.

Brett will start on the heads in a few days!

The Bad News
Didn't get WS6 STORE called today or order oil pan, covers and so on. Have to do tomorrow morning.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Thank you Martin.

Keeping with a trusty Comp Cams XE-R lobe my pet guess was 240/248 .609/.615 114 +2
or

Xtreme RPM high lift, for a softer ramp
240/248 .588/.595 114+2

How bad is that off what's needed?

big hammer

Those heads flow around 340 cfm @ .600 with a 2.100 valve

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Add Harrop intake and make 600+ at wheels

knocking valve seats out of heads and redoing would be required to go to a valve that big...not sure if I want to go that far

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Not sure how much more further you've thought the build out, but i recommend 2" primary headers if you can make them work. And a true dual exhaust with X pipe.

Make sure your exhaust literally sucks

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

Katech still sells a 2.10" hollow valve......Just Sayin'.......

Martin Smallwood

iTrader: (2)

I would HIGHLY recommend you steer clear of the XE-R lobe family. If you must have a Comp Camshaft use HLO or HUC lobes on intake and exhaust.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Big thank you to WS6 Store for looking up the parts for completing the ERL 416 short block. I went over budget by about $800 but new coils packs and nice valve covers were the key reason.

Here's what's on the way.

Description:
Front cover kit - includes cover, seal, gasket, bolts, cam sensor, cam sensor harness - 12633906
Rear Cover kit - includes seal, installer, gasket, bolts - 12639250
Valley cover kit - includes cover, gasket, new bolts - 12598832
OIl Pan kit - for fbody includes new bolts, oil baffle, gasket, oil level sensor, pan, and drain plug - 12628771
Oil pan pickup - for fbody pan - 12558251 11561025
Oil pan windage tray - for fbody comes with nuts for main studs 12558253 11609746 x 10
Oil Pump - melling high pressure - MEL10295
Dip stick and tube - includes o ring and bolt - 12551581 12551577
Block completion kit - cyl head dowels, bellhousing dowels, soft plug, screw in oil plugs and freeze plugs, oil pressure barbell - SDLSPK
Cam thrust plate - comes with torx head bolts - 12589016 11561455 x 4
Timing set - billet HD single row with heat treated chain and billet heat treated gears and torrington bearing and arp cam bolts - CS1190 ARP134-1003
Timing chain tensioner - LS2 style with bolts - 12588670
Water crossover kit - includes bolts, crossover, o rings, and vent tube blocks - 12602544/1 11588714 x 4
Crank sensor - with bolt - 12560228 11515756
Knock sensors x 2 - S8696 x 2
Oil Pressure sensor - S4202
Coolant temp sensor and plug kit - 12608814
Cam and knock sensor relocation harness - CAS109081
Motor mount and trans mount kit - 7-1908
Heavy duty valve cover gaskets - VS50504R
Water Pump - includes gaskets, bolts, new style t stat and housing - 19256263 SD105160 12551926 x 6
HD alternator harness pigtail - replaces and extends factory brittle small wire setup - PT5674
red holley covers 241-113
Coils 5c1554 x 8
Coil harness 357A

I still have to pick out a clutch. McCloud Twin disc RTS seems likely a good choice. I want something that drives like stock and can hold 600hp on slicks. RAM HD is good but a little to grabby. I'm all ears.

Headers - what's really to be gained with a Kooks 2 inch over Kooks 1 7/8 - I have a stock K member and will have to keep it.

DynaTech and American Racing also seem very good.

I would settle for 1 7/8 LT's that bolt to my Muffled Y pipe (3inch to 4 inch to cut out to SLP Dual/Dual)

How loud is Kooks true duals compared to an open cut out? To a Borla?

Please educate me on headers for this size engine. Thank you.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

I will talk with Brett about big valve some time this week. Not sure that will be the course.

Bad Vibrations

The new 8.8 rear install ran into issues yesterday. Nasty vibration. I drove the car and all of the 10 bolt whine and grind noise was gone but the car had a nasty new vibration.

We swapped front and rear rims thinking it might be Tire related - very minor improvement if any.
Checked the drive shaft - it seemed OK. The bad front u joint had been replaced.
Rotors checked - nothing seemed out of order.

Ran out of time. Discussed with the mechanics at Adam's Garage and we decided to send drive shaft to a drive line shop and get it checked. We'd found that front u joint binding and the best guess was that related to the problem.

The drive line shop reported the stock drive shaft was bent and twisted.

WTF!!!!!

How could that happen?
Nitro NT05's are the most sticky Tire that's ever been on the car. I bought the car with 4 miles on it.

Anyway the drive line shop said I had two choices A or B.

A) Fix this drive shaft 550ost $450
B) Custom built steel drive shaft with life time Warranty including racing for $550

I went for option C) order new stock aluminum drive shaft for $160

I wanted a option D) carbon fiber DS but had already went over budget with coil packs and valve cover beforehand this occurred.

The new stock DS is on the way from Hawk's Motorsports.
Hopefully, this will fix the issue and I can move forward with build rather than trouble shoot problems.

Do you think the new replacement drive shaft should be checked by the drive line shop before going into car?

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for the tip on Comp Cam lobes Martin.
I'm not sure which cam vendor Brett has in mind.
Whatever the cam lobe is it will have to be spec'd to work with the new set of BTR springs that came with the heads.

SoFla01SSLookinstok

I'm hoping the Kooks 2'' fit good with the stock k. I'll give feedback.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Redbird555 did the 2" headers on his LS7, so he can give you good feedback. I'd be less worried about the K and more worried about the spark plug wires to be honest.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

Zero issues with MSD wires, or the firecore 50's I'm running now.

Also I had kooks 1 7/8-2" stepped headers with a stock k member before. I had to grind a little on the k member to fit them, but nothing bad.

big hammer

I have granatelli angle boot ls3 wires with 2" headers. Zero issues

Hi-Po

iTrader: (4)

Sticking a stock driveshaft back in the car with plans of dropping the clutch with slicks might end up being a problem. Get a safety loop.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Agreed will do. Hope to eventually get a CF DS

SoFla01SSLookinstok

Thanks for the info. I have the Granatelli ultra high temp plug wires so I'm not too worried about that.

The only other thing, I'm wondering, is about the collector & the body. Having the Spohn motor mounts picked the motor up. It actually kept the headers I have from contacting the k a bit. But the collectors, on the headers I have, are pretty damn close to the body now. We'll see.

gagliano7

I have to agree with you 100%. The import reliability is a bunch of BS. I have had toyota, honda and my last car Subaru problems. The 2013 Subaru Impreza is one of the biggest POS i have ever owned.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

CF DS was one of those expensive upgrades I do NOT regret at all. I got it through RPM transmission and also got the DS made with the Strange yoke. The little bit of give and very light weight of the CF really helps tame your driveline vibrations. It made the car more pleasant to drive.