My High Elavation 416 Build
#62
You'll build better torque on LLSR and the valvetrain stability will help it carry power well past peak. I do not think you'll regret it at all!
I've been DD mine now for a year and a half. Until it warms up it acts like a bigger cam. Then it settles down and drives.
Mine is 237/245. Drives like a 232/240 warm. Makes power like a 237/245. Carries power out to 7400 at least. I haven't revved it higher. 500 + hp from 6300 out to the end of the run.
I've been DD mine now for a year and a half. Until it warms up it acts like a bigger cam. Then it settles down and drives.
Mine is 237/245. Drives like a 232/240 warm. Makes power like a 237/245. Carries power out to 7400 at least. I haven't revved it higher. 500 + hp from 6300 out to the end of the run.
#63
LLSR is going to help eliminate a lot of the valvetrain noise common to aggressive cam lobes, the dreaded sewing machine on steroids. Nice rockers! I bought the same ones for my build. The kit comes with a set of rocker arm geometery checking tools, it'll be interesting to see how that works out with parallel measurements.
#64
Hi StepSide, I too use the Crower Shaft Rocker.
WHAT I FOUND : The END plate bolt locations can "strip"
My METHOD is to "sert" the end bolt holes under the plates.
This location is in the head outside position (4).
The "swipe" picture should show the MAX LIFT position close to the valve stem center.
I see you have improved this location.
Lance
WHAT I FOUND : The END plate bolt locations can "strip"
My METHOD is to "sert" the end bolt holes under the plates.
This location is in the head outside position (4).
The "swipe" picture should show the MAX LIFT position close to the valve stem center.
I see you have improved this location.
Lance
#67
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Crower Shaft Rocker Kit
Hi ALL, I will restate :
The Crower Cams Shaft Rocker kits I fit use Steel Pedestals.
They have broken at the ends AFTER the End Plate Bolt "cylinder head" threads become weak after several seasons of racing. (BAJA)
I viewed your pictures and were unsure you have the Steel Pedestals.
Better to be safe is my stance.
There IS know "tech" about the stock rocker bolt size cylinder head threads "striping"
One method is the "sert" all locations with steel.
This is based on spring pressure and Max RPM.
I fit 7/16" Rocker Studs on my SBC F-5000 race engine.
Thus, TUG, I never "roll" one.
Lance
The Crower Cams Shaft Rocker kits I fit use Steel Pedestals.
They have broken at the ends AFTER the End Plate Bolt "cylinder head" threads become weak after several seasons of racing. (BAJA)
I viewed your pictures and were unsure you have the Steel Pedestals.
Better to be safe is my stance.
There IS know "tech" about the stock rocker bolt size cylinder head threads "striping"
One method is the "sert" all locations with steel.
This is based on spring pressure and Max RPM.
I fit 7/16" Rocker Studs on my SBC F-5000 race engine.
Thus, TUG, I never "roll" one.
Lance
#68
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I use shaft rockers on my llsr ls7 as well as my llsr ls3 and never had any stripped threads on my heads I do make sure the bolts reach down as far as they are called to, if the bolts seem short well then I just use longer bolts.
I have not use the Crower rockers though.
I have not use the Crower rockers though.
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if this helps.....
I run yella Terra rockers. i've not had any issues. HOWEVER - I run a special item only sold by Tony Mamo that I know of. the rockers studs are drilled out to 10-mm bolts vs 8-mm bolts. the rockers and pedestals are set up for 10-mm bolts. Much stronger.
As to set up, I asked cam motion to grind the cam so that the base circles intake and exhaust were the same, since YT rockers are inpairs, and you don't want them crooked. Now, a few thou is going to happen, but you don't want to be 020 or 030 crooked between the intake and exhaust pair. Then I run machine shims under the pedestals to set the lash. For aluminum engine, I would start with exactly zero lash. I went back and actually preloaded my valves 0.003 cold. Cheap trick to cheat a couple extra degrees duration out of the cam. When the engine warms up, you'll gain .007 lash. Since everything is shimmed and bolted down, there is nothing to adjust. I've taken it apart twice to check, and the valve preload has not changed.
Edit -- Lifters are morel. Kip sent me what he uses, so I'm not certain the model number. mine are using the lifter trays, though I think I'd prefer the link bars - which are offered also.
Hope that helps
I run yella Terra rockers. i've not had any issues. HOWEVER - I run a special item only sold by Tony Mamo that I know of. the rockers studs are drilled out to 10-mm bolts vs 8-mm bolts. the rockers and pedestals are set up for 10-mm bolts. Much stronger.
As to set up, I asked cam motion to grind the cam so that the base circles intake and exhaust were the same, since YT rockers are inpairs, and you don't want them crooked. Now, a few thou is going to happen, but you don't want to be 020 or 030 crooked between the intake and exhaust pair. Then I run machine shims under the pedestals to set the lash. For aluminum engine, I would start with exactly zero lash. I went back and actually preloaded my valves 0.003 cold. Cheap trick to cheat a couple extra degrees duration out of the cam. When the engine warms up, you'll gain .007 lash. Since everything is shimmed and bolted down, there is nothing to adjust. I've taken it apart twice to check, and the valve preload has not changed.
Edit -- Lifters are morel. Kip sent me what he uses, so I'm not certain the model number. mine are using the lifter trays, though I think I'd prefer the link bars - which are offered also.
Hope that helps
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Got these in both engines expensive but is not a part to skimp on they are sure much less than a new engine.
Sense I drive my car everywhere so I don't have to worry.
Every time I check lash I find 2 or 3 valves .002 off and I can't hear them over the fuel injectors.
http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...angId=-1&No=30
I got my last set for around 870. if you shop around they are warranty and rebuild able but I never had any issues.
They are both very strong and very light weight under 120 grams each.
Sense I drive my car everywhere so I don't have to worry.
Every time I check lash I find 2 or 3 valves .002 off and I can't hear them over the fuel injectors.
http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...angId=-1&No=30
I got my last set for around 870. if you shop around they are warranty and rebuild able but I never had any issues.
They are both very strong and very light weight under 120 grams each.
#73
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Got these in both engines expensive but is not a part to skimp on they are sure much less than a new engine.
Sense I drive my car everywhere so I don't have to worry.
Every time I check lash I find 2 or 3 valves .002 off and I can't hear them over the fuel injectors.
http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...angId=-1&No=30
I got my last set for around 870. if you shop around they are warranty and rebuild able but I never had any issues.
They are both very strong and very light weight under 120 grams each.
Sense I drive my car everywhere so I don't have to worry.
Every time I check lash I find 2 or 3 valves .002 off and I can't hear them over the fuel injectors.
http://www.jegs.com/p/COMP-Cams/Comp...angId=-1&No=30
I got my last set for around 870. if you shop around they are warranty and rebuild able but I never had any issues.
They are both very strong and very light weight under 120 grams each.
#75
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I ended up buying a set of Morel #5425
http://morel-lifters.com/ls1-ultra-p...r-lifter-5425/
Not sure of the weight .
http://morel-lifters.com/ls1-ultra-p...r-lifter-5425/
Not sure of the weight .
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Time-Sert Rocker Bolt Locations
Hi S"A"S, the guys at CHE ALSO state to Time-Sert "rose bud" the rocker bolt locations in the head.
The too state to use a quality bolt.
The time to do this is a given with your planed head R&R.
I would ALSO "undercut" your ARP stud kit when the heads are off.
Lance
The too state to use a quality bolt.
The time to do this is a given with your planed head R&R.
I would ALSO "undercut" your ARP stud kit when the heads are off.
Lance