C6 LS3 Build - Trick Flow 255's, 11.5:! Compression and Mid sized cam - Advice Needed
#1
C6 LS3 Build - Trick Flow 255's, 11.5:! Compression and Mid sized cam - Advice Needed
So I've had the car for about a year and a half now. It currently has intake exhaust (no headers) and tune making somewhere around 410 whp/wtq. I decided to go ahead and do a (mostly) all out NA build, while trying to retain drivability and street manners. I don't expect the car to drive like stock, but I'd love to be able to cruise at 1400 rpm in sixth gear without the car throwing a fit. I'd also like to retain most of my throttle response and torque from 2200-2800 (I don't want a dog on the bottom end) and then start to see the graphs diverge somewhere right at, or just before 3000 rpm's. Keep in mind that this shouldn't be hard considering I'm bumping the compression, adding heads, and adding headers. All things which should add to the bottom end. I'd love to make a great peak number, north of 500whp, but that goal is secondary to a strong FEELING car. I'd also love to be able to carry decent power up to 67-6800 rpm's before it falls on it's face. I will likely set my rev limiter at 7k, and shift a hair before that when giving it hell. I'd love for the car to be able to trap 129-130 in the 1/4 mile, though this isn't the intended use for the car. I love backroad driving on twisties, and I do 2-4 HDPE events per year. That's where I want to really focus my efforts. I don't go to mexico often either.
Right now I'm leaning towards something like the following:
Right now I'm leaning towards something like the following:
- 227/235-237ish cam with 113-114 LSA (looking for 3-6 degrees of overlap) - I am completely open to suggestions and feedback on this choice
- TFS 255's milled .030" with a .040" head gasket (should yield 11.5ish CR) - I am also open to suggestions on this. I'm debating additional port work to compensate for the 5cc's of lost volume to milling
- YT Ultralite Rockers - Open to opinions and feedback here. Not entirely sure this is necessary for my application
- Contemplating a lighter weight hollow stem intake valve for the heads
- 3 bolt cam gear, swap LS3 tensioner for ls2 damper, and Rollmaster Timing Chain (From reading, I don't believe I need the super super C5R chain for this application, but open to input. This adds about $100)
- Generic Pushrods - would love to be able to figure out length without a checker during the build process, but this seems inevitable
- Rick crawford rod mod intake, and rick crawford ported throttle body
- Stainless Works 1 3/4 headers with catted x pipe to 2.5" outlet exhaust (currently Bullets, but I am thinking I will want something a bit quieter after the work is done). I'm wondering if I am giving up anything with the 1 3/4 headers vs 1 7/8.... Thoughts?
- Oil Pump (I believe I am going to skip this unless anyone convinces me otherwise)
- Haltech cold air intake
- I may or may not do a 10% underdrive pulley - thoughts?
- Other Gaskets, Seals and bolts I need to address or change while I'm in there?
Last edited by bigwebb83; 05-20-2018 at 05:17 PM.
#2
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
It’s nice to see someone pop in with a clear direction. Welcome to the site!
my first question is what is your budget?
my first question is what is your budget?
#3
TECH Senior Member
#6
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#8
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LOL as we are all on the main GM forums depending on the car we have currently. LS1 Tech has always been my preferred source of entertainment per say. You have a hard time getting the corvette boys to chime in on much performance stuff. You post up what color should i dye my ole ladies cooter and you get 300 replies LMAO
#9
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
So I've had the car for about a year and a half now. It currently has intake exhaust (no headers) and tune making somewhere around 410 whp/wtq. I decided to go ahead and do a (mostly) all out NA build, while trying to retain drivability and street manners. I don't expect the car to drive like stock, but I'd love to be able to cruise at 1400 rpm in sixth gear without the car throwing a fit. I'd also like to retain most of my throttle response and torque from 2200-2800 (I don't want a dog on the bottom end) and then start to see the graphs diverge somewhere right at, or just before 3000 rpm's. Keep in mind that this shouldn't be hard considering I'm bumping the compression, adding heads, and adding headers. All things which should add to the bottom end. I'd love to make a great peak number, north of 500whp, but that goal is secondary to a strong FEELING car. I'd also love to be able to carry decent power up to 67-6800 rpm's before it falls on it's face. I will likely set my rev limiter at 7k, and shift a hair before that when giving it hell. I'd love for the car to be able to trap 129-130 in the 1/4 mile, though this isn't the intended use for the car. I love backroad driving on twisties, and I do 2-4 HDPE events per year. That's where I want to really focus my efforts. I don't go to mexico often either.
Right now I'm leaning towards something like the following:
Right now I'm leaning towards something like the following:
- 227/235-237ish cam with 113-114 LSA (looking for 3-6 degrees of overlap) - I am completely open to suggestions and feedback on this choice
- TFS 255's milled .030" with a .040" head gasket (should yield 11.5ish CR) - I am also open to suggestions on this. I'm debating additional port work to compensate for the 5cc's of lost volume to milling
- YT Ultralite Rockers - Open to opinions and feedback here. Not entirely sure this is necessary for my application
- Contemplating a lighter weight hollow stem intake valve for the heads
- 3 bolt cam gear, swap LS3 tensioner for ls2 damper, and Rollmaster Timing Chain (From reading, I don't believe I need the super super C5R chain for this application, but open to input. This adds about $100)
- Generic Pushrods - would love to be able to figure out length without a checker during the build process, but this seems inevitable
- Rick crawford rod mod intake, and rick crawford ported throttle body
- Stainless Works 1 3/4 headers with catted x pipe to 2.5" outlet exhaust (currently Bullets, but I am thinking I will want something a bit quieter after the work is done). I'm wondering if I am giving up anything with the 1 3/4 headers vs 1 7/8.... Thoughts?
- Oil Pump (I believe I am going to skip this unless anyone convinces me otherwise)
- Haltech cold air intake
- I may or may not do a 10% underdrive pulley - thoughts?
- Other Gaskets, Seals and bolts I need to address or change while I'm in there?
carry on.
#10
i appreciate your feedback. I realize that I could put a g6x3 in there with an under drive pulley and hit 500 rwhp. Making a daily drivable car, with good throttle response and a fat tq curve down at the bottom and mid range is a different challenge. I am going for the second one.
Anyone with feedback on the build, my expectations, the parts selection, cautionary tails, or otherwise useful information is welcome and your inputs are greatly appreciated. First time poster, long time lurker
Daniel
#11
TECH Senior Member
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Here's my .02 worth
1 7/8 primary headers for sure.
I would consider a slightly bigger cam, like a couple of degrees.
10% under drive pulley is nice, it helps the motor Rev a little quicker. ATI makes an excellent 10% under drive that's a good harmonic dampener.
I would put a new set of lifters in since the heads are off.
If the car is a stick - lower gears
If the car is an auto - stall
1 7/8 primary headers for sure.
I would consider a slightly bigger cam, like a couple of degrees.
10% under drive pulley is nice, it helps the motor Rev a little quicker. ATI makes an excellent 10% under drive that's a good harmonic dampener.
I would put a new set of lifters in since the heads are off.
If the car is a stick - lower gears
If the car is an auto - stall
#12
What kind of lifters do folks typically use in a build like this?
I should also mention that the car is at about 65,000 miles and gets about 10-12k per year added to the clock. Anything else I should consider while it’s apart, given the mileage?
Daniel
I should also mention that the car is at about 65,000 miles and gets about 10-12k per year added to the clock. Anything else I should consider while it’s apart, given the mileage?
Daniel
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#14
#15
TECH Senior Member
Some guys would not consider 227/236 cammed engines mild-mannered. Besides that, any engine that might see higher than normal revving, like this one could, would do well to use a better lifter.
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Johnson lifters are top notch. If you are looking for max effort but moderate cam, that is what I would do. I personally think in a 376 the cam you selected will be a good street cam. Should have great midrange and not too hard to tune.
#18
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Just kinda looked at the original post again.....you said 129-130 traps. No cam is needed for that. Heads aren't needed for that other than stock for each. **** you don't even need headers to get to 125+
i guess i didn't realize that's all you were looking for.
i guess i didn't realize that's all you were looking for.
#19
Looking at the list, it appears that most of the folks running 130 have a large cam with other bolt ons like Intake tb and udp, or running a head cam setup.
Stock c7 zr1’s are just kissing 130....
Daniel.
#20
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More to it than just setting behind the steering wheel man. This is lazerlemons bolt on c6 ls3 we did for him. It had a best trap of 132 that day.
here is before headers and a few other minor mods on a different track.
here's my own bolt on ls6. It's had a best trap of 131.x
since that run it has picked up 34whp with odds and ends. Stock cam stock heads stock sbe....crate ls6. Unfortunately i won't be able to see how much it improved due to i bent some valves. Made some hopeful improvements while the heads were off. Still stock cam tho.
Moral of the story here is you're lookin in the wrong place if you want better acceleration. Just like many others.
here is before headers and a few other minor mods on a different track.
here's my own bolt on ls6. It's had a best trap of 131.x
since that run it has picked up 34whp with odds and ends. Stock cam stock heads stock sbe....crate ls6. Unfortunately i won't be able to see how much it improved due to i bent some valves. Made some hopeful improvements while the heads were off. Still stock cam tho.
Moral of the story here is you're lookin in the wrong place if you want better acceleration. Just like many others.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 05-24-2018 at 12:40 PM.