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So my truck has been making a ticking noise, that comes and goes. I've never heard it myself until just yesterday (my wife has been hearing it, but hasn't told me about it until yesterday, lol). So when I took it out for a 20 minute drive, the sound started 10 minutes into the drive, lasted for 5 minutes, and then completely went away. While it was ticking loudly, I put it in neutral, and revved it up. The ticking noise seems to speed half the speed of the motor, which tells me valve train. My oil pressure didn't seem to be affected in any way when the ticking began. My heads are fairly new (243 heads professionally rebuilt, and installed 7,000 miles ago by myself). The push rods have 80,000 miles on them (purchased and installed when I put my cam in), and the lifters are OE (150,000 miles on the motor). I drained the oil, and found no metal shavings at all. I'm guessing that I'm getting a lifter, that is wanting to stick. I went ahead and ordered a new oil pump, timing chain set, lifters, push rods, camshaft, rockers, and associated gaskets. The parts should be here Thursday sometime, and I hope to have the truck torn down by then. My wife and I rely on our vehicles for work very much, so I can't afford to be down for too long. Regardless of what the noise is, I've been wanting to make these changes for sometime. What say you guys, do you think it could be a lifter starting to fail? Can lifters make noise, and then go away? I'll take pics and update this thread as I find more out.
Last edited by PowellSixO; 08-21-2018 at 06:22 PM.
What you "hear" that sounds like "the motor", IS the valve train. The firing rate of the cylinders.
The valve train turns at half the speed of "the motor". (crank, rods, etc.) I.e., "the motor" runs TWICE as fast as the valve train. For every "blub" you hear that's attributable to a cyl firing, the crank spins TWICE.
If you're hearing a mechanical noise at twice the rate of what you perceive as "the motor", it's the bottom end.
However, they don't generally "tick".
I'd be suspecting some kind of exhaust or compression leak. Header gaskets, spark plugs not tight, etc. I wouldn't immediately plow into lifters and cams and stuff. I sure as hell wouldn't start tearing it down at this point.
What you "hear" that sounds like "the motor", IS the valve train. The firing rate of the cylinders.
The valve train turns at half the speed of "the motor". (crank, rods, etc.) I.e., "the motor" runs TWICE as fast as the valve train. For every "blub" you hear that's attributable to a cyl firing, the crank spins TWICE.
If you're hearing a mechanical noise at twice the rate of what you perceive as "the motor", it's the bottom end.
However, they don't generally "tick".
I'd be suspecting some kind of exhaust or compression leak. Header gaskets, spark plugs not tight, etc. I wouldn't immediately plow into lifters and cams and stuff. I sure as hell wouldn't start tearing it down at this point.
You are correct. I don't know why I wrote twice as fast as the motor. That was a brain fart moment. I know it's valve train noise because it's twice as slow as the motor. Sorry for that. I'm 99% sure it's valve train noise, and it sounds serious. It's very very loud ticking. When it starts it's instant, and when it goes it away, it was also instant. I'll try and get a video of it tonight. I'll then take the valve covers off and look for obvious problems. I'm almost certain that it is not an exhaust leak. All new gaskets and bolts in the exhaust system, and I'm quite aware of what exhaust leaks sound like. I've chased a bunch of them with this motor before. This is definitely in the motor. I'll try and get a video tonight.
So I got it to repeat the noise again, but it only lasted for like 10 seconds and then went away. The sound is there all the time now, but very faint at most times. I wasn't quick enough with my phone to video it, when it was VERY loud. I did get a video of it when it was being faint. But I can't figure out how to post it. I'm very positive that this is a lifter noise. So at this point, I'm going to dig into it. At the very least I'll know my valve train is healthy. Plus I've been wanting to replace the oil pump, timing chain and gears, timing cover seal (it's been leaking), and my camshaft (more suitibale to my setup) for some time now. I pull a trailer with my truck a lot, and it spends a LOT of time at 5,000-6,000 rpms. I've abused it over the years, and it's about due for some lovin. I'd rather do it now, and have peace of mind, than have a failure while pulling 8,000 lbs miles from home. I've already ordered the parts, and all that's left is to finish it. I'm not 100% sure I'll be able to do it this weekend, but I WILL post pics once I get into it. I'll also try to figure out how to post videos.
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30. Been running it since 60,000 miles on the motor (when I bought it). It now has 150,000. I cammed it just before 70,000 miles.
One thing I else that I forgot to mention, is that the oil pressure has been fluctuating at wot around 6,000 rpms. The oil pressure climbs up to 70 psi, and will fall and fluctuate 3-5 psi. I replaced the oil pressure sensor thinking that it might be the problem, but it did not solve the problem. I'm hoping that I'm just sucking air at the oring, or the oil pump is getting tired. I always run a quart high on my oil too, so I know it's not because of low oil. That's another reason I'd still like to open it up. I really want to replace the oil pump and oring for peace of mind.
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30. Been running it since 60,000 miles on the motor (when I bought it). It now has 150,000. I cammed it just before 70,000 miles.
i knew it. There is your problem. Mobil 1 sucks. Get that **** out of there. Flush the engine out good and put some castrol syntec in it.
Yea I've heard this noise with plenty of 6.0: 1500/2500 GM trucks generally it's upon start up and after general driving after start up (I've driven the S#!? out of some 6.0/6.2 work trucks. 90/95mph from S.A to Houston 2hrs and very little change, Several times not enough toes or fingers to count). It's a lifter cause a rod don't sound like no lifter....Major difference in sound from time a bearing goes to the full on banging. Thinner oil sounds like it would help. Thanks Hio* I'll put that in my wallet. I've bought from my old job a wrecked 2500HD for the 6.0,trans, and ECU that I had to sell, but it went to the same guy(*Elijah*my mechanic,aka known over 35yrs) that I had pull the (ECU,trans,6.0) cause his needed a 6.0 short block. His 2500Hd was knocking with a replaced oil pump that the bearings had went bad(It sounds way worse than a lifter). He took my engine and I took his and stripped it........All junk! Crank couldn't be sold as the cuts were to deep(Same with a 5.3 block with bad rod bearings). Lifter and rods are far different in sound, the lifter will go away once the oil gets thinner typically or if it's sticking it just ticks even with rev'ing. The rods have a sound of their own. Old school trick to find which rocker or lifter is bad is to:
Get a wooden stick such as a mop or broom stick with flush ends and place them on the valve covers with the engine running. Tells all! No doctor equipment needed. It's the 2nd lifter on the passenger side.....if you know what I mean type of deal. Before removal.
All I know is that this is more than just normal valve train noise. I've had this particular truck cammed for 80,000+ miles. But this noise that comes and goes is not normal! I can hear it over the radio blasting. We'll all know soon enough. I promise I'll make updates, and post pics.
The stick will tell you if you've got one and which one. Rocker, lifter or anything on the heads with tapping. It may Sound like BS! Been finding which set of lifters or rockers that are off or bad on OLDS for yrs. And Cutlass 305's go bad all the time...... old trick! Works with any engine. Again 3rd set on the driver side for example. Gives you a general idea beforehand. Rod bearings going, won't sound like lifters/rockers through a valve cover. Wish you the best.
Well I tore it down today. Started at the flexplate with no luck. Tore the valve covers off, and everything felt good. Removed the pushrods, and they all looked good. But I found the intake valve tip on cylinder 7 to be worn down. So I preceded to remove the heads. Found intake lifter on cylinder 7 to be stuck about 1/16 of an inch lower than all of the others. It was definitely collapsed. After working it with a pushrod for a bit, I got it freed up. I disassemble the lifter and found a few black flakes of something inside of it. So I'm glad to say I found my problem.
08-21-2018, 05:37 PM
Failing Lifter LQ4??? 
