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i know this is goona be a dumb question but i believe my 2000 camaro had a 2bar map correct? i need a new map because i let that go with my fast intake, and was wondering if there is a different 2 bar map i should use? i ask because my map will now be on the front of the intake and not the rear anymore since i will be running an ls7 intake for now. is there one that reads better from the front? i seen cobalt 2 bar maps recommended here before 12615136
i haven't bought the extension harness yet so any map connector really is fine
Last edited by Floorman279; 02-17-2019 at 02:44 PM.
Reason: .....
so i need to install the rear cover on this thing, and was wondering what the best way to do it is with it on the engine stand? i figured i could maybe just lift it with the hoist and hold it on there for a little while i do it but then i also know its goona want to move around.......can i just wait until i sit it down on the k member and cart to deal with it then? if i do it that way what order would you do the covers? i feel like usually you would do the pan last.... i have the saccity tools to help out
so i need to install the rear cover on this thing, and was wondering what the best way to do it is with it on the engine stand? i figured i could maybe just lift it with the hoist and hold it on there for a little while i do it but then i also know its goona want to move around.......can i just wait until i sit it down on the k member and cart to deal with it then? if i do it that way what order would you do the covers? i feel like usually you would do the pan last.... i have the saccity tools to help out
Hi Floorman,
When assembling my engine, the engine was removed from the engine stand, and was held up via hoist/chain.
If you have access to anything sturdy that can hold some of the weight of the engine (like a wooden box) lower /heighten the hoist to where the wooden box/sturdy object has *some* of the weight on it, then you can torque down the rear main without it moving around on you too much. The rear main doesn't need insane torque, this technique is what I used to get it on.
Ok that's sorta the idea I was thinkinhv but id like to do the pan last so I might just have to throw it back on the stand after. All of this for the dumb saccity barbell
Ok that's sorta the idea I was thinkinhv but id like to do the pan last so I might just have to throw it back on the stand after. All of this for the dumb saccity barbell
Yes, after the rear main seal, we threw it back on the stand for the pan. Just how it is.
bumping this up, previous owner had a dry sump, im goona be running the standard crank drive wet sump so i need to double check oil galley plugs. for the rear the only thing i have to gory is the barbell, which is taken care of. i will take care of the underside once i get the valve train assembled and can rotate the engine upside down, but now i have a question on front over, where there appears to be 2. in this pic, im pretty sure which one needs to be removed, but i want to double check. what do i do wit these 2 plugs
Plug toward the timing set gets taken out. That’s where the oil pump will pressurize the system. I always remove all plugs and clean/polish the galleries before start mock-up , to ensure debris gets removed.
Plug toward the timing set gets taken out. That’s where the oil pump will pressurize the system. I always remove all plugs and clean/polish the galleries before start mock-up , to ensure debris gets removed.
yup thats what i figured , i looked behind where the pump is and thats where the hole lined up. so i leave the one on the right plugged correct? so its odd to me, seems like an o ring or gasket should be used there, similar to how the cam plate has the gasket built in, seems like the pump could benefit from that same built in there with a little circle.....doesnt some oil come out from there and return back to the pan since the metal on metal wont make an oil tight seal?
Yessir, the outer (other) hole stays plugged. SacCity makes an o-ringed plug for the other (outer) hole, that’s a trick piece. The machined pump face mates perfectly with the machined block face there. You won’t have any leaks. Don’t overtorque the pump bolts. Look into properly shimming the pump at install. It’s a pain, but it needs to be done correctly.
Yessir, the outer (other) hole stays plugged. SacCity makes an o-ringed plug for the other (outer) hole, that’s a trick piece. The machined pump face mates perfectly with the machined block face there. You won’t have any leaks. Don’t overtorque the pump bolts. Look into properly shimming the pump at install. It’s a pain, but it needs to be done correctly.
yup im aware of that, problem is he must have used half a tube of loctite on these so i need to wait to mount it until i can disassemble it
no car shipping has delayed this as well as now waiting on my new valley cover now. would really like to get the cradle in the car this weekend and start next weekend. but this weekend is looking busy without those plans.
while you guys are here, any way i can flush the heater core? can think of a way to get most of the dex cool out of there.....i plan on running peak extended life that says it mixes with any color and all types, but just want as much of the 18 year old stuff out of here as possible.
02-09-2019, 09:01 PM
