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For the Gen IV blocks going into a Gen III car, I always drilled and tapped the hole for the Gen III knock sensors. It’s easy to do with the engine out of the car, but I have seen one guy accidentally drill all the way through.
Lol, talk about a bad day. In hindsight, I wish I didn't let my fear of doing exactly that stop me from drilling/tapping it... One day I'll dedicate a weekend and get this done and run some K sensors - only reason is because I want to tune the timing as well, not just the AFR. I don't have access to a dyno around here, and street tuning the timing for MBT without a knock sensor will be challenging... hell, it's challenging even with them. But at least then I can detect when someones knocking on the door....
For the Gen IV blocks going into a Gen III car, I always drilled and tapped the hole for the Gen III knock sensors. It’s easy to do with the engine out of the car, but I have seen one guy accidentally drill all the way through.
obviously he most likely didn't mark his bit or his tape moved or something. 2 questions....
1)obviously measure how deep the hole is and make sure i paint the bit, but how much material is behind that hole? like how much margin do we have?
2)any reason why i couldn't drill say 1 mm to shallow and run a washer behind the knock sensor to really prevent from drilling too deep? maybe some blue loctite? shouldn't move
I would measure the thread length on the K sensor first. No need to drill or tap any deeper than the threads are. Then use a drill stop (metal donut looking thing with a set screw) to set the depth when drilling. It’s a lot harder to screw it up that way.
I would measure the thread length on the K sensor first. No need to drill or tap any deeper than the threads are. Then use a drill stop (metal donut looking thing with a set screw) to set the depth when drilling. It’s a lot harder to screw it up that way.
makes sense, better off buying a 20 dollar tool than a new ERL block, o wait, i cant........
so what are my balancer options? i saw that some offer pulleys you can bolt on to the back for ac and such, are there any that have a pulley thats small like the size of a tensioner pulley? in the future i may do a vacuum pump as mentioned, and the guy from gz said they run all theres up off the tensioner and that ac pulley is too large to properly work the pump. i wouldn't mind running it where the ac was......out of sight down there
so what are my balancer options? i saw that some offer pulleys you can bolt on to the back for ac and such, are there any that have a pulley thats small like the size of a tensioner pulley? in the future i may do a vacuum pump as mentioned, and the guy from gz said they run all theres up off the tensioner and that ac pulley is too large to properly work the pump. i wouldn't mind running it where the ac was......out of sight down there
Looking forward to what you find out, as I’d like to run a vac pump in the same spot your wanting to. I thought the vac pumps were driven off the front of the balancer? I haven’t researched them much honestly...
GZ motorsports has a vacuum pump set up that bolts a mandrel onto the front of the balancer. You then use a spacer to set the distance right and mount the VP off your cylinder head and use spacers to set the distance right and run a cogged belt. It's actually pretty straight forward despite that explanation.
User 98_WS6_M6 figured it out on his and gave me a parts list from GZ. I ordered his parts list and everything worked fine. With the Meziere WP, there was one interference point with the VP bracket, so I trimmed the bracket and ended up drilling one additional mounting hole. But it went together quite well.
If you have deleted AC, I saw one guy mount his where the AC compressor was and it worked great for him. I kind of liked that lower mount for looks TBH, but I have not yet moved mine to the lower position like I should...
obviously he most likely didn't mark his bit or his tape moved or something. 2 questions....
1)obviously measure how deep the hole is and make sure i paint the bit, but how much material is behind that hole? like how much margin do we have?
2)any reason why i couldn't drill say 1 mm to shallow and run a washer behind the knock sensor to really prevent from drilling too deep? maybe some blue loctite? shouldn't move
There's a pretty significant amount to meat behind the threaded hole so you have some room for error and you shouldn't accidentally drill through unless you are just day dreaming and not paying attention. When you drill into a hole, you should be able to feel when you get to the bottom. Measuring the depth of the original hole and painting or taping the bit is a good idea.
There's a pretty significant amount to meat behind the threaded hole so you have some room for error and you shouldn't accidentally drill through unless you are just day dreaming and not paying attention. When you drill into a hole, you should be able to feel when you get to the bottom. Measuring the depth of the original hole and painting or taping the bit is a good idea.
ok thanks. still working on painting and other odds and ends.
still haven't made much progress. was on vacation this week and its pretty chilly out and was babysitting most the time so woot woot for vacation 2019. engine bay has 2 coats of paint, ready for coat 3 which might be last. i have decided to strip all the abs/tcs wires from the car. pain in the ***, but i wanted to get rid of that abs connector to declutter things so figured why not do it all. wont save weight, will be a pain in the ***, but at least i can invest 20 bucks in new conduit vs cleaning the old stuff. also got rid of the TCS thing on the passenger side by the strut tower, as well as removed the ASR controller from under the dash.......i cut open all the conduit, cut off all the tape and started tracing wires to make sure i cut and remove the right ones. still keeping cruise so couldn't clean it all up but only one wire went to that module from the abs block. that damn block that runs through the firewall next to the booster was a bitch......a heat gun and a helper still took awhile to get the glue off.......doesnt make sense to me why gm did all that. so now i bought all new conduit and can hopefully squeeze the drivers side frame rail harness into 3/4" down from 1", and can get all that stuff taken care.
anyway was bored and was looking around and saw what people were calling a dry/wet sump hybrid setup, one that still operates off the wet sump pump. i emailed ARIAD or whatever cause i saw they have something. wasnt considering this because i have a short crank, but now its on the tables since id like to do my best to help this thing live. I know that the improved racing baffle and crank scraper should do me fine, since it will see limited track use and an extra quart will get me by, but started thinking, the improved racing stuff will be about 400, and the fbody oil pan and guts inside have some street value, id say baffle, tray, pickup tube and pan could be sold for 250 or more if i sat on it, so thats 650 give or take, maybe if i could get a hybrid setup for under 900 this might be worth it. not trying to really rig anything together, would prefer a kit of some kind and put has to work without a long crank.....any other people i should talk to besides ARIAD? if it were you would you just get the improved racing stuff and call it a day? 7500 is kinda the limit im seeing for stock style oiling
Last edited by Floorman279; 02-01-2019 at 04:08 PM.
Reason: .......
If you shop the dirt track world, there are some deals to be had on 2 or 3 stage dry sump pumps, tanks, etc.. I've seen guys make it work for well < 2000
Used sump tanks are fairly cheap and easy to clean up. (They are designed to be opened and cleaned.. ) Allows for serious oil cooling as well .. There are professional top quality reman pumps to be had as well. The AN line is the big cost on most systems.. (-10 or -12)
i would need an ac mounted one, is that the style the dirt track uses? one thing i was noticing was that the aviaid is actually a mini vacuum pump as well, well at least the ac bracket mounted ones are. so i was talking earlier about running a vacuum pump earlier, im liking the dry sump even more. it can provide 8 to 10 inches of vacuum, and i saw an article from GZ in an LSX magazine saying that a 454 N/A should target around 12-15 inches of vacuum, so honestly we are pretty close, and that same article showed gains of about 6hp across the board, but actually like a 2 tq peak loss.....hmmmm....anyway so we wont quite get to the vacuum target but will provide enough for a small benefit, and i wont ever have to worry about pulling too much vacuum. looks like the aviaid system B is about 2000 retail.....or a little more, i only got 1 email back so far, but that includes an ATI balancer which i would have to get anyway, just a pricier balancer.
i dont think i would need oil cooling tho for my use.
so decided to go with improved racing baffle, scraper, and that little thing to help hold down the tube evenly at the pump. not worth the dry sump for this setup.
so i was definitely overthinking the drilling and tapping new knock sensor holes......was super easy. but now it looks like the huge sensor is goona be an issue for the dipstick?
the previous owner has a hex adjust timing setup in there. im not sure how strong that chain is, no idea if he reused the ls1 chain or thats the chain they provided, but it looks identical to the stock ls1 chain.....i know many recommend the ls2 chain, but not sure if that will work with this gear set......the ls1 chain is in my hand. thoughts?
Might be an illusion, but the rollers on the installed chin look bigger than the rollers of the chain in your hand.
Can you get ahold of the guy you bought the shortblock from and ask him how much time is on the timing set?
should be the same as the short block so 1 break in heat cycle. he gave me the cloyes instructions so probably bought new. would you swap chains to an ls2? the links are black on the installed chain so its not a factory chain.
01-12-2019, 11:22 AM
