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no car shipping has delayed this as well as now waiting on my new valley cover now. would really like to get the cradle in the car this weekend and start next weekend. but this weekend is looking busy without those plans.
while you guys are here, any way i can flush the heater core? can think of a way to get most of the dex cool out of there.....i plan on running peak extended life that says it mixes with any color and all types, but just want as much of the 18 year old stuff out of here as possible.
Ive flushed them using simple garden hose LOW PRESSURE, in reverse direction. Anything high pressure on an older heater core will burst it and put liquid in your passenger side floor board. No bueno...
i have read that .200" to .375" is a good range to be in for oil pickup to pan distance. i put some play doh on my pickup, and snugged down the 6 bolts in the middle and the 2 long ones at the rear cover. i torqued them to maybe 8 pounds or so. i then measured the doh and the doh measure a whopping .51"......does this happen from time to time where you need to add .20" of washers underneath the pickup tube? the nut is barely flush with the top of the main stud now.
i did add about .17" of washers and it got me down to around .31", and i added one more .045" washer to get it down to .26 since everyone seems to like the 1/4" spacing.
i am using the factory/same fbody pan and oil pickup tube that came off my ls1
Last edited by Floorman279; 04-12-2019 at 11:38 PM.
Reason: .........
also for clearncing my stock k frame for kooks 2 inch, im assuming 1/8" between header and k frame with poly motor mounts will be fine? thats the amount of clearance the pass side had without grinding, but i needed to remove about 7/16" from the drivers side to achieve 1/8" there
i have read that .200" to .375" is a good range to be in for oil pickup to pan distance. i put some play doh on my pickup, and snugged down the 6 bolts in the middle and the 2 long ones at the rear cover. i torqued them to maybe 8 pounds or so. i then measured the doh and the doh measure a whopping .51"......does this happen from time to time where you need to add .20" of washers underneath the pickup tube? the nut is barely flush with the top of the main stud now.
i did add about .17" of washers and it got me down to around .31", and i added one more .045" washer to get it down to .26 since everyone seems to like the 1/4" spacing.
i am using the factory/same fbody pan and oil pickup tube that came off my ls1
You can usually pry up on the tube and bend it a little bit. It’s pretty common for the clearance to be too tight or too loose. Not too many people actually check though.
so here is my setup. not sure if anyone else does this but i haven't seen it.
i decided i really wanted a 4 corner vent that goes under the intake so i dont need to mess with it when i swap intakes in the future. so i noticed a pretty large gap between the valley cover and the intake ports. so i got 1/4" ID brake line and bought some coolant hose. i also trimmed all the metal off the back ports besides about 1.5". long story short, connected the front crossover to the brake line with the rubber hose, and connected the rears with a T from advance. i also put some old abs wire conduit around it so its not rattling underneath there and for protection. i also used the PET protectors on all hoses, and the rear one looks like it will touch the fire wall because of how the bend and junction is back there, so in addition to the PET i added some recycled conduit from my power steering cooler onto it as well.
the front looks decent, the back is hideous and i didn't try to make it look good since its hidden. hope it works.
after torquing the intake down i looked underneath and am 99% certain i have at least 0.5 mm of space between the intake and brake line.
i probably didn't need any clamps on anything but the lines connecting to the brake line, fairly snug fit but not chancing it in such a hard to reach spot
So tonight is first crank time. Using br30. I will be just turning the key and letting it go, now pulling fuel pump and just cracking. Double checking, to avoid wearing in the rings anymore before actual break in on the dyno, I want to double check on what tonight's goal is.
Basically I start it and verify oil pressure. If i have pressure within 5 seconds, I instantly hold 2000 rpms until operating temp, and with a buddy, once operating temp is reached I keep adding coolant and try to get all the air out of the system before tune day. Once I get all air out, I kill it and don't run again til dyno blast. Does that sound fine? How long can I hold it 2000 for without wearing down rings
So that all sounds fine? So as long as the motor is never really under load, aka not moving or driving the car, the ring wearing into the walls will be minimal when holding it at 2000 rpms
That's going to be very difficult for anyone to answer. But the key determining factor is your AFR. Rings can break in very quickly, or they can take long. There's no set wear in/break in period.
Regardless - have the engine on only as long as you absolutely need it, and not a moment more.
You want the best possible ring seating. The longer you keep your engine on without proper AFR (stoich):
Too rich: glaze, inefficient seating starts to take place
Too lean: extra heat causes slow ring damage and inefficient seal
Will having it on for 30 seconds to 5 minutes hurt you? Probably not, unless something is already screwed up.
You have the right idea though. You want your break in to take place on a Dyno or when you have stoich AFR to 12.9 on WOT.
Edit:
What is your reasoning behind taking it to 2000 rpm the instant you have oil pressure? If this is a fresh rebuild, you want to give the parts a chance to wear-in *all the way* to operating temperatures, meaning the rings/valvetrain/everything is up to temperature, before taking it to 2000rpm. Remember, all these parts are new, they've never met before. They're all going to wear each other away appropriately - you don't want to increase the RPM's too quickly when starting it cold - especially the first time.
Cold start is always rich. that's the way it works. Every morning. Running it in for five minutes is fine unless you completely flood the engine and wash the cylinder walls. If you have HPT, keep it handy and as it idles and warms up, be prepared to tweak the AFR. Or leave it in closed loop and let the fuel trims do their thing. It's generally better to do all this with the maf if your setup is even remotely similar to the stock intake and TB arrangement, as the maf will likely be closer than your VE table.
When I break in a new motor, I pull the plugs and pump fuse, turn the starter until the oil pressure needle moves. Then button everything up and let it rip. Idle for 20-30 minutes, checking fuel trims, dipstick tube, look for leaks, etc. Once it hits warm idle and I'm satisfied everything is good, I shut it down and change the oil. Let it cool off a bit. Check the filter while letting it cool off.
Next time I start it up, I take it out on the street and put it in second gear and to 15-20 pulls from 20-50 MPH at about half throttle (traction permitting), leave it in gear and let the engine brake it back down to 20. keep doing 20-50-20. Loads the rings up real good. Get back tot he garage, change the oil again, check the filter. Then go out and start logging for tuning, which very naturally keeps your RPM from sitting in one spot for very long. Make sure the laptop is good and charged BTW. You'll make several VE and MAF edits. When I'm either out of battery ont he laptop or I feel I have it dialed in pretty good, I'll drive it normal but not gently until 500 miles, oil change, then start pushing it more.
You're doing a dyno break in, though, so it'll go differently. I've never got to do a dyno break in myself, so can't help you there.
Because I read avoid idling at all until full break in is completed.
The cpu has been flashed already by my tuner so it will be in a very safer operable ball park.
The 2000 rpms will also allow it to reach temp faster, which I need to reach temp in order to get coolant circulated and all the air out, at least that's what I thought
I am not doing any tuning of any kind. All I have is a scanner that will do some live data for me. I figured today's goal is, make sure it runs, make sure it has oil pressure, make sure the coolant is basically free from air. Then take it to tuner so he can blast it
Basically I figured all I need to do today is get it to where the tuner can hook it up and go.....is this correct? If so did I mention everything I should do
I am not doing any tuning of any kind. All I have is a scanner that will do some live data for me. I figured today's goal is, make sure it runs, make sure it has oil pressure, make sure the coolant is basically free from air. Then take it to tuner so he can blast it
The cpu has been flashed already by my tuner so it will be in a very safer operable ball park.
Not doubting your tuner - nor will I say it won't be safe, but take this as you will:
TSP tuned my computer for specifications I gave them, for their *own* off the shelf parts, and it was off by a long shot. Was only good for turning it on - as is ANY mail-order/pre-tuned computer. Just keep that in mind. So, refrain from doing any WOT runs. I know you know better, but sometimes it helps to get another perspective.
Anyway, you've got nothing to worry about if you're just doing a quick preliminary run to check for basics.
04-11-2019, 10:38 PM
