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I have another thread started on irrelevant information to this so I decided to start this thread. I'm building an LS3 for my 2000 TA, and I really need some guys with internal engine experience to chime in.
The motor I bought had a crunched piston and hurt the cylinder wall. I did not want to go very far on the overbore in fear of going too thin on the sleeve,
and this is what the sleeve looks like at .005. The machinist gave me an honest opinion and said this knick should not be an issue, just wanted some affirmation to maybe make me sleep at night? This picture is literally just after they put a rough cut on the bore to show me before proceeding.
Thanks for the reply. If I really needed to repair it, I will. It just gets exponentially harder. Have this machine shop go .020 over and see if it cleans up? I'm sure I can, but what about the sleeve thickness? I'm sure it will be thin.
After that, I have to find another block. Awesomeeeee.
I really just want to run it, I'm getting ready to put it together, I just don't want to be another dumbass with a failure.
Honestly, what's the worst that can happen if I run it as is? It burns a little oil? Just an honest question.
Last edited by 2000taalex; 02-15-2019 at 07:33 PM.
If your building a street engine with moderate compression, send it.
If your building a max effort engine and looking for a dyno record, find another block.
It will run fine as is. Might burn a little oil...maybe. Keep an eye on that cylinder’s spark plug.
IF you can find pistons, try boring it larger, but from the pic it looks too deep to fix without a sleeve.
I had (still have) an LS2 block with a hurt cylinder. My machine shop put a Darton replacement sleeve in that hole for $300.
These guys pretty much covered it so take the information for what it is. Having to remove an engine from the car and tearing it back down due to ring issues just plain sucks. My advice would be to seat the rings on an engine dyno and then put in the car.
Thanks so much for the replies guys. Thats why I didnt go farther, the owner of the machine shop said we do NOT know if it will clean up, even at .015. The machinist that did the work said he'd run it, said hes seen alot worse. I'm sure he has!
I snagged a good deal on a set of forged mahles for 4.070 bore with new gen 4 rods ready to go. I just wanted some more mature advice before I went in 100 percent and ran the sucker! It is a street car, going to be around 11.2 SCR, nothing crazy. I havent seen the finished product yet, as soon as I see the block in person I will take pictures.
I'd run it and I highly doubt it's going to be a problem, How is that imperfection going to lose any more cylinder pressure than what the ring gap already does? If you measured that area it's a very small percentage overall of the overall ring seal. If you won't run it ship it to me and I'll run the **** out of it lol
That's what I thought, the only thing that slightly concerns me is a ring snagging, but I don't even see how that would happen. Its flush with the bore. Unless the ring spun and the open end of the ring made contact with that surface BUT even then, it shouldnt lose tension and slide right past? OCD to the max here, just thinking worst case.
Honestly he did not sound confident at all when I asked if we could just replace the sleeve. I already told them to seal the deal at .005. Crossing my fingers for a healthy engine.
You should see the diesel engine in my friends truck... It literally had so much rust from water sitting in it we had to hone the cylinder to clean it up enough to get the piston out of 1 cylinder. The pitting did not clean up and even after aggressively honing it to try and true up the cylinder, it still had a wave in it. Not only did he put it back together with the same piston but it runs like a champ even on an aggressive tune.
The sleeve in your block is mint in comparison.
You will never notice it and won't be an issue. I have seen worse that didn't burn oil.
Is the nick in the ring land area for the piston at top dead center or a hair above or below the ring land area? Doubt it would make much difference for a street engine build. So like the others, I think you'll probably be OK.
If you really want it cleaned up, you should be able to go .020 over on an LS3 block and .030 over on an LS2 block. My LS2 block has a similar issue with a shallow but longer nick and has to go .010 over. Found this in a Hot Rod article. For what's worth in other places I've read of some LS3's going .030 like the LS2. The sleeve thickness is similar. The sleeve alignment core shift may vary a little more with the LS3 blocks.
Max over bore LS blocks
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 02-16-2019 at 07:48 AM.
Thanks so much everyone. Haven't seen it yet in person, seems to be just under the ring land area, right around the second ring. Cleaning it up is too late now, as long as I wont see a catastrophic failure I'm going to run it.
Thanks so much everyone. Haven't seen it yet in person, seems to be just under the ring land area, right around the second ring. Cleaning it up is too late now, as long as I wont see a catastrophic failure I'm going to run it.
Hey man you still around? Wondering how this worked out for you. I'm in the same position and my block is bored .010 over and there's still a tiny nick. Shop says it's probably fine but I don't know.
Hey man you still around? Wondering how this worked out for you. I'm in the same position and my block is bored .010 over and there's still a tiny nick. Shop says it's probably fine but I don't know.
Mike I responded to your PM, I would like to see what damage you're seeing. I ended up putting mine together and beat the HELL! Out of that motor. I have since sold the car, but Ill tell you, it ran good. It did burn oil, though. Not terrible, but at WOT especially on decel (stick car) it would pull oil. Could have been rings, I dont even think the little knick in the cylinder was the culprit.
I have another thread started on irrelevant information to this so I decided to start this thread. I'm building an LS3 for my 2000 TA, and I really need some guys with internal engine experience to chime in.
The motor I bought had a crunched piston and hurt the cylinder wall. I did not want to go very far on the overbore in fear of going too thin on the sleeve,
and this is what the sleeve looks like at .005. The machinist gave me an honest opinion and said this knick should not be an issue, just wanted some affirmation to maybe make me sleep at night? This picture is literally just after they put a rough cut on the bore to show me before proceeding.
Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!
Trust your machinist!! Otherwise, theres no point in having him around. I TOTALLY agree with him, and Im a retired Toolmaker/Machinist with over 40 years in a job shop. Two stroke engines have an exhaust port in roughly the same location, relative to TDC. An exhaust port is a HUGE HOLE in the cylinder sleeve by comparison. The "loss" you'll experience with this little ding will be immeasurable. Just make sure there's no high spot/burr sticking up. Put 'er together, and drive it like ya stole it!!
02-15-2019, 06:11 PM
Cylinder sleeve damage. What do you think? 
