LS7 Rocker Arm Help
#21
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Video is hard to hear, since you do have the sewing machine valvetrain sound, but there is a deeper sound underneath it. is that what you are concerned about as a spun bearing?
#22
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The excess iron i believe to be from all the rocker arm pads and valve tips that were worn down due to the spring pressure and side load.
The copper content however, I'm thinking is maybe coming from the valve guides?
#23
I'm running 20w-50 at the recommendation of the engine builder due to slightly looser clearance bearings that he used in the rebuild.
The excess iron i believe to be from all the rocker arm pads and valve tips that were worn down due to the spring pressure and side load.
The copper content however, I'm thinking is maybe coming from the valve guides?
The excess iron i believe to be from all the rocker arm pads and valve tips that were worn down due to the spring pressure and side load.
The copper content however, I'm thinking is maybe coming from the valve guides?
What I would do, so you stop guessing is to pull the top end off to inspect and check everything.
The valve guide issue is very common.
If I had an LS7 I would do preventative maintenance such as re-machining the heads, changing the rockers etc to ensure it never happens.
Get rid of the stock rockers and use something like yella terra.
You will not have any more issues like this with the valve tips plus they can withstand up to 900lb of open pressure if you get the platinum series.
You could also run more lift too if wanted.
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That oil is very heavy though. You should ask if maybe you should use a 5w50.
What I would do, so you stop guessing is to pull the top end off to inspect and check everything.
The valve guide issue is very common.
If I had an LS7 I would do preventative maintenance such as re-machining the heads, changing the rockers etc to ensure it never happens.
Get rid of the stock rockers and use something like yella terra.
You will not have any more issues like this with the valve tips plus they can withstand up to 900lb of open pressure if you get the platinum series.
You could also run more lift too if wanted.
What I would do, so you stop guessing is to pull the top end off to inspect and check everything.
The valve guide issue is very common.
If I had an LS7 I would do preventative maintenance such as re-machining the heads, changing the rockers etc to ensure it never happens.
Get rid of the stock rockers and use something like yella terra.
You will not have any more issues like this with the valve tips plus they can withstand up to 900lb of open pressure if you get the platinum series.
You could also run more lift too if wanted.
I have already replaced the top end, which is sort of the reason for this thread, as it didn't get rid of the noise.
The heads were reworked, ported/milled, and new valve guides when the builder refreshed the block. About ~1500 miles on the whole thing. Then started the noise. That's where the first post in the thread starts.
Short of pulling the heads, I've swapped the OEM rockers for TSP roller tips, new pushrods, lash caps on exhaust valves, checked the lifters (solid lifters, so roller is only thing that could go bad).
Minus the pushrods and rockers, the rest of the motor has ~1500 miles on it. Still making the noise. Even with the low mileage on the rebuild, I suppose the new valve guides could be worn already. The OEM rockers were practically leaving the valve tip, so I can't image how much side load there was.
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One of those "knew then what you know now" scenarios unfortunately... Probably will just have to bite the bullet, pull the motor, and take it to a reputable builder this time for another refresh if this issue is anything on the bottom end.
#27
Wish it was that simple. Motor was rebuilt in 2017 and this guy has since gone off the grid. Only way to get him to do anything now is serving him court docs, which he's up to his neck in already for more expensive jobs.
One of those "knew then what you know now" scenarios unfortunately... Probably will just have to bite the bullet, pull the motor, and take it to a reputable builder this time for another refresh if this issue is anything on the bottom end.
One of those "knew then what you know now" scenarios unfortunately... Probably will just have to bite the bullet, pull the motor, and take it to a reputable builder this time for another refresh if this issue is anything on the bottom end.
Do yourself a favour, cut your losses and take your engine to a proper professional.
Get them to check it over and fix it.
The hassle you will go through, will drag on for too long and you will be stuck with a faulty engine.
Maybe lodge a complaint and try and get some money back if you want but don't get him to do any work.
I went through something similar with someone
This bozo botched a camshaft install and was trying to blame me saying it was the wrong camshaft and that it would make less power than a stock camshaft.
He screwed up my oil pump with sealant, and my fuel pump was buzzing too. These had to be replaced.
I cut my losses, pissed off, and went somewhere else where I was lucky enough that this guy did it for half the price because of my ordeal and have been going to him for 9 years now and counting.
A true professional.