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found enough microscopic metal pieces in the filter to make it look milky, but never found anything larger than microscopic in the filter or on the magnet. the magnet was basically a metal paste. i changed the oil and after 400 miles i put in 5/30 pennzoil conventional and a K&N filter. still having the oil pressure issues. feel free to share you opinions on the filter videos. this is my oil pressure after running for 10 seconds
more driving videos. side note im now sewing machine. i wouldn't say its excessive but very obvious. does get into an "acceptable" sound range when fully warmed up. coolant temps were around 200, wasnt hot today just humid.
this is after its been running for about 10 minutes. notice the fluttering the gauge does when i let off
this one was interesting. coasting in neutral and with revs i have a nice jump in pressure and no loss. before this i did one while coasting where i did a 5 second rpm raise from 3-6000 with no engine load and saw a nice steady rise and no loss. i think i also held it a 5000 rpms with no load and it held pressure around 55 i think
so the only time im noticing any sort of pressure issues is WOT with car in motion. i guess the next step will be do hook up a gauge at the valley cover and temporarily eliminate the oil pressure sensor there....anybody know of any kits for this and will this mess with anything? i dont think the ECU cares what my oil pressure is. how does my oil look from the 400 mile drain? any other thoughts?
ERL short block, no way to contact.....i did everything from the cam install forward, the barbell and everything rearward, head gaskets and everything above that. mamo specced 90% of it but im not trying to bug him yet. i did let him know i had an issue after the dyno and his suggestions were basically just in regards to the hp numbers, since this was before i noticed the oil pressure.
From the videos of your start up the pressure looked fine and it went up at throttle which are all good things but when it falls off when doing hard pulls you either have a faulty pump or a restriction somewhere.
The reason I'm asking is that my car was having a similar issue and it was because the pickup tube was close enough to the bottom of the pan for the high volume pump I put on the engine.
I ended up going with a Moroso 21150 and oil filter relocate and my problem was solved. By the way that was some fragmentation in the oil for sure but it may be just do to initial break in but definitely keep an eye on that.
not trying to argue with you guys helping me, since im trying to gain knowledge and im glad at least one of you had a similar problem that was solved, but i cant understand how the pump or oring could be a problem. those things operate the same weather it is 6000 rpm at WOT in 3rd gear or WOT to 6000 rpms while sitting still. the fact that it happens when a "g force is applied", i know wrong term but u guys get what im saying, but i do believe it has a suction problem of some kind, again pending on if the mechanical gauge confirms what the electric sender is saying, will still need to research into this and find a setup i want to try.
the fragments i dont think is anything to worry about right now. thats the oil i used from 40 engine miles to 400 miles so i think plenty of break in occurs during this time,
stock fbody pan and pickup, improved racing scraper and baffle, i checked before install that all doors in baffle opened and closed.
i assume 7 qts is the most i should run with stock pan? i will try this before i do mechanical gauge since its easy to do
I ended up going with a Moroso 21150 and oil filter relocate and my problem was solved. By the way that was some fragmentation in the oil for sure but it may be just do to initial break in but definitely keep an eye on that.
Your welcome and I'm just trying to help out a fellow fbody from my experiences with falling oil pressure. In my case the pump was working great it was just that the pickup tube clearance was between an 1/8 and 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan and what was happening was under heavy load it would start sucking in air causing my oil pressure to fall off. Once I went with the deeper pan, new pickup tube and windage tray I ended up with about 3/8 inch clearance and my problem was solved. I also have the improved racing trap door for the fbody pan but never ran it.
Your welcome and I'm just trying to help out a fellow fbody from my experiences with falling oil pressure. In my case the pump was working great it was just that the pickup tube clearance was between an 1/8 and 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan and what was happening was under heavy load it would start sucking in air causing my oil pressure to fall off. Once I went with the deeper pan, new pickup tube and windage tray I ended up with about 3/8 inch clearance and my problem was solved. I also have the improved racing trap door for the fbody pan but never ran it.
i measured it and had i just slapped it on i was almost half inch of clearance. somehow thats how it was with the old stuff........i stacked washers and got it down. it is basically somewhere right around .27-.31 is my guess. most people had varying max and min ranges but all basically agreed on more than .25 and less than .375 so thats where i was. and yea it has to be some sort of sucking issue i think
I'm no professional at engine building but I'm wondering if the crank scraper has anything to do with it. I know if it was me I'd be thinking about dropping the pan and pulling some caps to make sure everything is okay if I was going to try something different.
not trying to argue with you guys helping me, since im trying to gain knowledge and im glad at least one of you had a similar problem that was solved, but i cant understand how the pump or oring could be a problem. those things operate the same weather it is 6000 rpm at WOT in 3rd gear or WOT to 6000 rpms while sitting still. the fact that it happens when a "g force is applied", i know wrong term but u guys get what im saying, but i do believe it has a suction problem of some kind, again pending on if the mechanical gauge confirms what the electric sender is saying, will still need to research into this and find a setup i want to try.
the fragments i dont think is anything to worry about right now. thats the oil i used from 40 engine miles to 400 miles so i think plenty of break in occurs during this time,
stock fbody pan and pickup, improved racing scraper and baffle, i checked before install that all doors in baffle opened and closed.
i assume 7 qts is the most i should run with stock pan? i will try this before i do mechanical gauge since its easy to do
If suction is a problem, there's only so many items to look at. The pickup tube itself, or the o ring, unless there's a pump issue. You really need to take a peek in there and at least start ruling some stuff out.
Just a thought, I would double check valley cover. If it's aftermarket, it's very possible the oil is leaking around the gasket or has a flaw in it somewhere. The get the Lingenfelter rivet tool and they have special rivets that plug the DOD oil holes. You should build more pressure as it comes into rpm, at least 10-15psi over idle. If it's fluttering like you say, either pressure is finding a hard way out(gasket semi-failing, seals to a point, then releases) or you are sucking pan dry, which is unlikely. 7qts of oil in a stock pan a bit much, it's also possible you are aerating the oil(frothing, has air bubbles in it) and that is bad enough to show on the gauge. Drop a bit of oil, maybe half to one full qt and try it. Just some thoughts.
I'm currently dealing with engine issues myself. With that being said, please do refrain from doing more WoT runs until you either look at everything everyone is telling you to look at, or simply remove the engine and disassemble it for a closer look. This seems overkill, but trust me when I say it's worth it. The peace of mind that comes from "knowing" rather than constantly "wondering" is absolutely worth it.
The reason I mention that, is because to me, your oil filter looks like mine did before I decided to remove the engine and take a closer look. I have a bad bearing that would be on the way out had I not taken it apart.
I'm not saying that's what's happening here, just sharing my experience. If you're lucky enough that this car isn't your daily driver, then by all means, get it back on the stands and take a thorough look at everything. It's simply not worth going above 4000 rpm's without proper oiling to support your bearings/internals.
The pump could possibly be cavitating at higher flow rates (high RPMS). Perhaps the pickup tube is too close to the bottom of the pan. A good way to check the clearance is with putty or clay. The pickup tube clearance between the bottom of the pickup tube head and the bottom of the pan should typically be around 3/8". Definitely no less than 1/4".
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I'm currently dealing with engine issues myself. With that being said, please do refrain from doing more WoT runs until you either look at everything everyone is telling you to look at, or simply remove the engine and disassemble it for a closer look. This seems overkill, but trust me when I say it's worth it. The peace of mind that comes from "knowing" rather than constantly "wondering" is absolutely worth it.
The reason I mention that, is because to me, your oil filter looks like mine did before I decided to remove the engine and take a closer look. I have a bad bearing that would be on the way out had I not taken it apart.
I'm not saying that's what's happening here, just sharing my experience. If you're lucky enough that this car isn't your daily driver, then by all means, get it back on the stands and take a thorough look at everything. It's simply not worth going above 4000 rpm's without proper oiling to support your bearings/internals.
no for sure i haven't been driving it. im not just goona roll with it and see what happens.
the valley cover is an interesting thought, but remember, every time i am moving and do WOT under load i lose oil pressure, but when i rev and hold it at 5-6000 it holds above 60 psi with no issues. the valley cover wouldnt care weather im moving or sitting still, 6000 rpms is still 6000 rpms. unless im missing, please tell me. im not trying to argue with you guys, i know it really sounds like i am but trust me im not, but i really would like to exhaust all options and then begin progressively digging it, probably starting with the valley cover and moving onto the pan.
and as far as any internal issues, if i had a bearing issue off some kind, i do understand that under load obviously their may be some flexing or the crank presses harder against the bearings etc etc so i could see how if i did have a bearing issue that it may be fine when revving not under load vs actually WOT and moving. but i dont see how an oring would act differently under load vs not under load.
improved racing, i used play doh and setup my tube. it was roughly .28-.31 inches.
05-26-2019, 10:26 PM
