What degree thermostat runs best?
#42
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#43
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If intake air charge temps are well managed (by means of OAI/CAI) and intake composition is stock-type (which I believe is DuPont Nylon 66), I think a 180° would often be a better choice for a significant range of NA applications, especially if compression is reasonably close to stock.
#44
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You guys should import some of the Penrite 10 tenths premium.
I'm betting it will be the best oil you have ever used.
When my engine is cranked and running you cannot hear any engine noise with zero ticking.
It runs so smooth that you need to put your ear close to the intake manifold to hear anything.
You obviously here the exhaust.
I can send some over
I'm betting it will be the best oil you have ever used.
When my engine is cranked and running you cannot hear any engine noise with zero ticking.
It runs so smooth that you need to put your ear close to the intake manifold to hear anything.
You obviously here the exhaust.
I can send some over
#47
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I have used all the major brands from mobil 1, Liqui Moly, castrol, valvoline, plus many others over the years.
Nothing comes close to Penrite.
My brother who has a 2008 e63 amg with the NA 6.2 litre which sounds like a farting vacuum cleaner compared to an LS. I'm really not a fan of this engine.
He was using mobil 1 and liqui moly.
Those engines are notorious for burning oil.
It would burn 2 litres of oil every 3 months.
When he switched to penrite, he didn't have to add a drop of oil before the next service and it even quietened down that flat tappet lifter noise too.
So he has stuck with it.
Nothing comes close to Penrite.
My brother who has a 2008 e63 amg with the NA 6.2 litre which sounds like a farting vacuum cleaner compared to an LS. I'm really not a fan of this engine.
He was using mobil 1 and liqui moly.
Those engines are notorious for burning oil.
It would burn 2 litres of oil every 3 months.
When he switched to penrite, he didn't have to add a drop of oil before the next service and it even quietened down that flat tappet lifter noise too.
So he has stuck with it.
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So what's the best oil, that is readily available around an auto parts store?
Many variables here, and "readily available" may not be the same from one region to the next.
But this is far off topic from the purpose of this thread...
#49
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You will find just about as many opinions on this as there are oils to be purchased. There are countless threads dedicated to this topic over the last 17+ years on this site, and there are sites (like BITOG) which are almost exclusively dedicated to just this one topic. You could spend a lifetime researching VOAs of various brands/grades, and then associated UOAs of applications similar to yours, if you really wanted to be thorough.
Many variables here, and "readily available" may not be the same from one region to the next.
But this is far off topic from the purpose of this thread...
Many variables here, and "readily available" may not be the same from one region to the next.
But this is far off topic from the purpose of this thread...
#50
/rant
High concentrations of ZDDP is useful in some cases. The type of ZDDP in the oil I use is formulated with short-chained secondary alkyl groups, making it more reactive at lower temperature and pressure. Because of this, I'm able to get the same protection at a much lower concentration. ZDDP increases the oil's friction coefficient so I don't like to use more than necessary for a racing engine. If the concentration is too high, it can increase the friction between parts to the point that it becomes abrasive, increasing wear in an ironic sort of way. This starts to happen ~3% ZDDP concentration (~1920 ppm Zn). I haven't found much benefit in boron EP additives in engine oil. ATF, MTL, and gear oil are different stories.
#51
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Yeah, the bogus test using a one arm bandit that has no correlation to a running engine. I know the videos all too well. I find it interesting that people don't trust the tribologists that formulated the oil nor the ASTM testing behind it, but they'll follow some idiot on youtube. I have an oil here on my desk that tests rather poorly in that "test" but it keeps solid flat tappets alive at over .700" lift, near 800 lbs spring pressure over the nose, and 9000+ rpm.
/rant
High concentrations of ZDDP is useful in some cases. The type of ZDDP in the oil I use is formulated with short-chained secondary alkyl groups, making it more reactive at lower temperature and pressure. Because of this, I'm able to get the same protection at a much lower concentration. ZDDP increases the oil's friction coefficient so I don't like to use more than necessary for a racing engine. If the concentration is too high, it can increase the friction between parts to the point that it becomes abrasive, increasing wear in an ironic sort of way. This starts to happen ~3% ZDDP concentration (~1920 ppm Zn). I haven't found much benefit in boron EP additives in engine oil. ATF, MTL, and gear oil are different stories.
/rant
High concentrations of ZDDP is useful in some cases. The type of ZDDP in the oil I use is formulated with short-chained secondary alkyl groups, making it more reactive at lower temperature and pressure. Because of this, I'm able to get the same protection at a much lower concentration. ZDDP increases the oil's friction coefficient so I don't like to use more than necessary for a racing engine. If the concentration is too high, it can increase the friction between parts to the point that it becomes abrasive, increasing wear in an ironic sort of way. This starts to happen ~3% ZDDP concentration (~1920 ppm Zn). I haven't found much benefit in boron EP additives in engine oil. ATF, MTL, and gear oil are different stories.
I have checked out Amsoil and Penzoil and honestly I was not impressed.
The level of zinc is more than safe.
Zinc is actually one of the most important ingredients that helps engines live.
Try it out!
#52
Haha, Obviously that was in a lawn mower but I recommend you try it out and see for yourself.
I have checked out Amsoil and Penzoil and honestly I was not impressed.
The level of zinc is more than safe.
Zinc is actually one of the most important ingredients that helps engines live.
Try it out!
I have checked out Amsoil and Penzoil and honestly I was not impressed.
The level of zinc is more than safe.
Zinc is actually one of the most important ingredients that helps engines live.
Try it out!
Amsoil has its place. The SS line is pretty decent. Their Dominator oil is a bit lacking for a racing oil. The Z-Rod oil is basically just their XL line with about 40% more ZDDP and corrosion inhibitors.
I actually like Pennzoil's conventional oil more than their synthetic oils. I'm not a fan of the natural gas (GTL) base oils. Performance wise, they're about the same as the GIII synthetics. They also tend to formulate them on the lighter side of the grade. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is just 9.8 cSt @ 212*F with an HTHS150 of 3.0 cP.
ZDDP is a vital additive, but it's way more complex of a topic than most realize. There's over 200 different types of ZDDP and they each function in different ways.
#53
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I've run Pennrite before and did a UOA. It performed well, just not very available here.
Amsoil has its place. The SS line is pretty decent. Their Dominator oil is a bit lacking for a racing oil. The Z-Rod oil is basically just their XL line with about 40% more ZDDP and corrosion inhibitors.
I actually like Pennzoil's conventional oil more than their synthetic oils. I'm not a fan of the natural gas (GTL) base oils. Performance wise, they're about the same as the GIII synthetics. They also tend to formulate them on the lighter side of the grade. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is just 9.8 cSt @ 212*F with an HTHS150 of 3.0 cP.
ZDDP is a vital additive, but it's way more complex of a topic than most realize. There's over 200 different types of ZDDP and they each function in different ways.
Amsoil has its place. The SS line is pretty decent. Their Dominator oil is a bit lacking for a racing oil. The Z-Rod oil is basically just their XL line with about 40% more ZDDP and corrosion inhibitors.
I actually like Pennzoil's conventional oil more than their synthetic oils. I'm not a fan of the natural gas (GTL) base oils. Performance wise, they're about the same as the GIII synthetics. They also tend to formulate them on the lighter side of the grade. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 is just 9.8 cSt @ 212*F with an HTHS150 of 3.0 cP.
ZDDP is a vital additive, but it's way more complex of a topic than most realize. There's over 200 different types of ZDDP and they each function in different ways.
Which penrite oil did you try?
Was it the vantage?
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I have had my LS2 now for some 13 years, and have seen this discussed many, many times, there are some very valid
points made here some old some new. BUT what I do know that if you have a LS motor or car built by BTR, Vengeance racing, TS LG, Lingenfelter, The list goes on and on, But the FACT is that they will deliver your engine or car with a 160 degree T stat PERIOD.
points made here some old some new. BUT what I do know that if you have a LS motor or car built by BTR, Vengeance racing, TS LG, Lingenfelter, The list goes on and on, But the FACT is that they will deliver your engine or car with a 160 degree T stat PERIOD.
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Originally Posted by rkupon1
Hey, Darth, do you honestly believe in the 4 corner steam vent system? I ve been going thru hell trying to make my Kurt Urban set up work with my intake manifold. My engine builder, whom im tasking to make a custom bracket for under my cross ram intake, says its more sales voodoo. Lol, i figure i already own it from my ls2 turbo build and didnt get any hits on selling it, so i gunna use it for the ls7 na build. I emailed KUP about possibly doing it with custom hardlines(the SS lines would easily support it and double as a bracket too), he said to keep it up high as possible for function. I actually do have quite a bit of room and plan on a pretty neat stealthy set up....stay tuned for results!