Gen 4 6.0 new build (push rod length) need help
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Gen 4 6.0 new build (push rod length) need help
Build info: 1999 ws6 M6 trans am 12bolt moser rear end 3.42 gear ratio S475 borg Warner single turbo A/C deleted
6.0 l ly6/l96 iron block.
stock bottom end.
Stock heads no work done.
stock valves.
BTR stage 2 turbo cam and dual valve spring kit. (Came with 7.40 length push rods).
Cometic gaskets p/n: C5751-070 (.070 compressed thickness). Was told better quench and help lower the compression.
ls7 style AC DELACO lifters (didn’t soak them overnight) took heads off this morning (lifters are sitting in oil). (Do I still need to make a solid lifter in order to check clearance and should I use one of my old ls1 lifters, or simply use the new lifters after soaking them?
(If using new lifters is gonna dictate rod length then how is using my ls1 lifters gonna be any help?)
Bottom end is already put together. From all the research I’ve being doing seems like I need to get a rod length tool (should come in tomorrow) and check for proper rod length at 0 preload add preload for ls7 lifters and check for valve to piston Clearance (never done this before)
Builder that gapped my piston rings said it’s most like because I didn’t prime my lifters and once the motor runs it’ll be fine other people are saying thicker gasket means longer pushrods even tho my builder said gasket should change much.
I am trying to make at least 950 to the wheels so I want to make sure I do everything right and still new to all this stuff so all help is greatly appreciated.
6.0 l ly6/l96 iron block.
stock bottom end.
Stock heads no work done.
stock valves.
BTR stage 2 turbo cam and dual valve spring kit. (Came with 7.40 length push rods).
Cometic gaskets p/n: C5751-070 (.070 compressed thickness). Was told better quench and help lower the compression.
ls7 style AC DELACO lifters (didn’t soak them overnight) took heads off this morning (lifters are sitting in oil). (Do I still need to make a solid lifter in order to check clearance and should I use one of my old ls1 lifters, or simply use the new lifters after soaking them?
(If using new lifters is gonna dictate rod length then how is using my ls1 lifters gonna be any help?)
Bottom end is already put together. From all the research I’ve being doing seems like I need to get a rod length tool (should come in tomorrow) and check for proper rod length at 0 preload add preload for ls7 lifters and check for valve to piston Clearance (never done this before)
Builder that gapped my piston rings said it’s most like because I didn’t prime my lifters and once the motor runs it’ll be fine other people are saying thicker gasket means longer pushrods even tho my builder said gasket should change much.
I am trying to make at least 950 to the wheels so I want to make sure I do everything right and still new to all this stuff so all help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by taws6ali; 06-18-2019 at 04:18 PM.
#2
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Is that compressed thickness and assuming it is with stock ranging anywhere from 0.040 to 0.055 your guess would be as good as mine. Get a pushrod length checking tool and measure for length.
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Yes that’s compressed thickness (took the motor apart and soaked the ls7 lifters) but that didn’t change anything. I can still push them down (plunger) with my finger. I had an old ls1lifter that had no play in it and that fixed the issue. I got a rod length tool but with the lifters moving that wouldn’t help me figure out the right length (right) they need to stay at the highest (solid) in order for me to get an accurate length.
#4
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Yes that’s compressed thickness (took the motor apart and soaked the ls7 lifters) but that didn’t change anything. I can still push them down (plunger) with my finger. I had an old ls1lifter that had no play in it and that fixed the issue. I got a rod length tool but with the lifters moving that wouldn’t help me figure out the right length (right) they need to stay at the highest (solid) in order for me to get an accurate length.
Once you do that get your fingers on the tool and start increasing the length of the PR tool until you get all of the slack out of the rocker arm. You'll feel it tighten up and there will be no play up and down on the rocker. Tap on the rocker arm to make sure your hearing no ticking and you have removed all the play. This is called zero lash and once you determine zero lash remove the rocker arm and carefully remove the tool and measure the overall length with a caliper gauge. I'd measure several of them to make sure I'm consistent measurements. Once I'm confident that I have the proper length at zero lash I would then add the recommended preload called for on the lifter and place my order.