SBE LS2 build opinons,advice please
#1
SBE LS2 build opinons,advice please
I am assembling an LS2 to install in my 01 SS and am looking for some input/confirmation that I'm on the right track. First LS build but I've been researching a lot. I'm trying to do a good quality job while being budget conscious. I've purchased most of the parts from individuals here as deals came up. Some parts are new some used.
Here's what I've got so far:
LS2 shortblock from an 06 vette
BTr Stg 2 LS1/2 cam 227/234 113+2
Johnson 2110 lifters
Cloyes hex-adjust timing set
CNC ported 799 heads - A.I. 226 w/61.5 cc chambers
BTR .660 dual springs w/ ti retainers
Fast 92 intake and WARR TB
Improved racing crank scraper kit
Meziere electric wp
ATI 10% ud dampener
Mighty Mouse catch can-
stock LS2 valley, front and rear covers
complete felpro gaskets w/ stock replacement head gaskets
I also have the felpro performance head gaskets @.041 thickness
The car and drivetrain is stock except for Kooks 1-7/8" lt's & ory, Yank SS3600 converter. So 3:23 torsen 10 bolt.
I don't have a hard number/goal in mind. I just want to have a fun car to drive. It's a weekend toy/cruiser, car shows, sport touring the backroads. I want to keep driveability near stock levels but have a noticeable performance idle with a significant improvement in overall power.
I am concerned that the compression may be too high. I calculated the static cr @ 11.82-1 and dynamic @ 9.04-1 using the .041 gaskets. I generally run at least 93 octane fuel. It would be nice to be able to use some 91 in a pinch though.
Open to any thoughts, input, suggestion you may have.
Here's what I've got so far:
LS2 shortblock from an 06 vette
BTr Stg 2 LS1/2 cam 227/234 113+2
Johnson 2110 lifters
Cloyes hex-adjust timing set
CNC ported 799 heads - A.I. 226 w/61.5 cc chambers
BTR .660 dual springs w/ ti retainers
Fast 92 intake and WARR TB
Improved racing crank scraper kit
Meziere electric wp
ATI 10% ud dampener
Mighty Mouse catch can-
stock LS2 valley, front and rear covers
complete felpro gaskets w/ stock replacement head gaskets
I also have the felpro performance head gaskets @.041 thickness
The car and drivetrain is stock except for Kooks 1-7/8" lt's & ory, Yank SS3600 converter. So 3:23 torsen 10 bolt.
I don't have a hard number/goal in mind. I just want to have a fun car to drive. It's a weekend toy/cruiser, car shows, sport touring the backroads. I want to keep driveability near stock levels but have a noticeable performance idle with a significant improvement in overall power.
I am concerned that the compression may be too high. I calculated the static cr @ 11.82-1 and dynamic @ 9.04-1 using the .041 gaskets. I generally run at least 93 octane fuel. It would be nice to be able to use some 91 in a pinch though.
Open to any thoughts, input, suggestion you may have.
#2
TECH Enthusiast
Agree on the compression. It would be less of a headache to drop it a touch. Just IMHO. The rest of it looks a lot like the motor I'm putting together right now, which is also intended for good street driveability.
The following users liked this post:
jlangley (12-08-2019)
#3
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (28)
Keep the compression and put in a 1/3 of a bottle of
Save up money for a new rear end.... you are going to need one soon
Torco F500010TE Unleaded Fuel Accelerator with 93 octane for good measure. You can find it on Amazon.
93 octane USA rating may be different than Canada.... 93 octane fuel in the USA easily supports 12:1 compression. I ran 11.25:1 compression with 91 octane in lots of engines here in California and set them up for 12:1 in areas that get 93.Save up money for a new rear end.... you are going to need one soon
#4
Everything looks good, but with that cam if it were me I'd just run the 0.051" thick factory gm mls head gaskets which should bring CR down to 11.5 and make it a bit safer on 93 and occasional 91 octane. The roughly .3 CR extra with the .041 gaskets isn't going to gain you much especially with a cam under 240's duration, and risk having to back off timing which will just result on you being down on power. Plus I always prefer to use the factory gm head gaskets. I really don't think the 0.010 in quench is going to be of any benefit because factory ls2 pistons are already around 0.008 out the hole.. so with 0.051 or 0.052 gm gaskets your quench is already only 0.044".
#5
Keep the compression and put in a 1/3 of a bottle of
Save up money for a new rear end.... you are going to need one soon
Torco F500010TE Unleaded Fuel Accelerator with 93 octane for good measure. You can find it on Amazon.
93 octane USA rating may be different than Canada.... 93 octane fuel in the USA easily supports 12:1 compression. I ran 11.25:1 compression with 91 octane in lots of engines here in California and set them up for 12:1 in areas that get 93.Save up money for a new rear end.... you are going to need one soon
#6
Everything looks good, but with that cam if it were me I'd just run the 0.051" thick factory gm mls head gaskets which should bring CR down to 11.5 and make it a bit safer on 93 and occasional 91 octane. The roughly .3 CR extra with the .041 gaskets isn't going to gain you much especially with a cam under 240's duration, and risk having to back off timing which will just result on you being down on power. Plus I always prefer to use the factory gm head gaskets. I really don't think the 0.010 in quench is going to be of any benefit because factory ls2 pistons are already around 0.008 out the hole.. so with 0.051 or 0.052 gm gaskets your quench is already only 0.044".
#7
TECH Senior Member
It's a balancing act. Thin gasket plays with octane requirement vs. quench vs detonation. It MIGHT detonate, or not, depending if the better quench clearance allows the quench to offset detonation.
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
jlangley (12-08-2019)
#9
Originally Posted by G Atsma
It's a balancing act. Thin gasket plays with octane requirement vs. quench vs detonation. It MIGHT detonate, or not, depending if the better quench clearance allows the quench to offset detonation.
I suspect there is little difference tbh.
I still have to check ptv clearance, might be a factor.
#11
Setup the cam timing today and checked piston to valve clearance. Used .051 thick shims in place of head gasket for measuring purposes. Intake seems pretty tight at .074, exhaust was .144.
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
#12
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Setup the cam timing today and checked piston to valve clearance. Used .051 thick shims in place of head gasket for measuring purposes. Intake seems pretty tight at .074, exhaust was .144.
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
#14
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Ugh...if it was mine, I’d flycut .025, run the thinner gaskets, and run the slop out of it.
#17
Originally Posted by zzracer
Check out the Lindy fly cutters you use in the head. That's what I used. My heads are cut .030 and I had to cut .100 cuts even with a .051 gaskets. They work good.
Still have yours? Want to make a deal?
#19
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I use these as well. Very nicely built and easy to use. When you call to order the cutter, the size you need will be determined by the valves you have in your heads. The cutter must be a little bigger than the valve for radial clearance.
#20
Setup the cam timing today and checked piston to valve clearance. Used .051 thick shims in place of head gasket for measuring purposes. Intake seems pretty tight at .074, exhaust was .144.
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
I used the dial indicator method to measure.
I guess the .041 gasket is definitely out.
Would you run it at .074 on the intake?
Don't forget that you do have an adjustable timing set. You could always retard the cam a degree to give up a little exhaust PTV to gain some intake PTV.