When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If someone had a finished short block but decided that the washing and cleaning that the machine shop did wasn't satisfactory would it hurt any of the surfaces to have it hot tanked again after taking it apart?
If someone had a finished short block but decided that the washing and cleaning that the machine shop did wasn't satisfactory would it hurt any of the surfaces to have it hot tanked again after taking it apart?
You don't hot tank aluminum, for one thing. That's a different cleaning tank. Having said that, go ahead, as long as you use plenty of assembly lube while re-assembling....
The tanks for cleaning a AL block are easily contaminated, it will leave a dark grey to tan stain on the aluminum.
It doesnt hurt anything other than tweeking my OCD .. LOL
Pressure wash cabinet, special soap and 200+ degree water, it looks like an industrial grade dish washer with its rotating table. If you get your block rinsed with water and compressed air as soon as the clean cycle stops it can come out like new without stains.
A cabinet will never get a block as clean as you can with super hot water, degreasers/soaps, and the right brushes. I don’t care if my machinist washed the block 12 times, I’m cleaning it myself when I get it back to my shop. I have the right tools and 140 degree water just for this. A couple of my brushes I have made myself for oil galleries. Have to be quick to get oil in the cylinders after this step. They will turn as orange as Trumps hair in about a minute if you let them.
Steve @ RED is the first to suggest that you never pressure wash a sleeved block. I tend to agree with him about that.
A cabinet will never get a block as clean as you can with super hot water, degreasers/soaps, and the right brushes. I don’t care if my machinist washed the block 12 times, I’m cleaning it myself when I get it back to my shop. I have the right tools and 140 degree water just for this. A couple of my brushes I have made myself for oil galleries. Have to be quick to get oil in the cylinders after this step. They will turn as orange as Trumps hair in about a minute if you let them.
Steve @ RED is the first to suggest that you never pressure wash a sleeved block. I tend to agree with him about that.
So your 140* water works better than 200* water? Not sure what you’re saying there.
So your 140* water works better than 200* water? Not sure what you’re saying there.
Yup. Take a dirty car to the carwash, and spray it with the pressure wand. Take that same dirty car and hand wash it in the driveway. Which is cleaner?
It doesn’t take 200 degree water to remove leftover debris on a machined block. 140 degree water is hot enough for second degree burns.
A cabinet will never get a block as clean as you can with super hot water, degreasers/soaps, and the right brushes. I don’t care if my machinist washed the block 12 times, I’m cleaning it myself when I get it back to my shop. I have the right tools and 140 degree water just for this. A couple of my brushes I have made myself for oil galleries. Have to be quick to get oil in the cylinders after this step. They will turn as orange as Trumps hair in about a minute if you let them.
Steve @ RED is the first to suggest that you never pressure wash a sleeved block. I tend to agree with him about that.
I worked at a shop that believed the spray wash cabinet was all you needed to get the block clean, just blow it out afterwards, oil the machined surfaces, and it was ready for assembly. A paper towel and acetone was all it took to show how dirty the block still was. I’m sure you know this, but a pressure washer, brushes, and a bucket of hot soapy water still won’t get it clean enough. I still final clean with paper towels, acetone, and even ATF for the cylinders.
What’s the reasoning from Steve for not pressure washing a sleeved block?
I use a combo of acetone, forumla 88, and brake cleaner in the cleaninng process. Obviously, everything gets brushed to death. Real dirty alum gets sprayed w/ acid and comes out like new. I wash my cyl walls w/ brake cleaner till a white paper towel comes out white when i wipe it. Then gets rubbed down w/ Rotella for break-in. As clean I get it, i still want it cleaner. FYI, you cant do this w/ an alum block, but baking an iron block is the ****. Literally looks new when it comes out. This is a pic of the oil galley on one of Buick Nailheads I build. I take pics of near everything when I assemble so there is no questions after the fact.
I worked at a shop that believed the spray wash cabinet was all you needed to get the block clean, just blow it out afterwards, oil the machined surfaces, and it was ready for assembly. A paper towel and acetone was all it took to show how dirty the block still was. I’m sure you know this, but a pressure washer, brushes, and a bucket of hot soapy water still won’t get it clean enough. I still final clean with paper towels, acetone, and even ATF for the cylinders.
What’s the reasoning from Steve for not pressure washing a sleeved block?
Hopefully Steve chimes in here, but from what I gather, the sleeves (GM block here) aren’t set until heat cycled. They are pressed in with an interference fit and red loctite is all that holds them in until the heads are bolted down. Not sure if he’s seen them move some from a pressure wash or not, but his instructions are to not pressure wash the block. He’s been doing this, as you know Kent, for 40+ years and if Steve says it, it’s gospel.
Hopefully Steve chimes in here, but from what I gather, the sleeves (GM block here) aren’t set until heat cycled. They are pressed in with an interference fit and red loctite is all that holds them in until the heads are bolted down. Not sure if he’s seen them move some from a pressure wash or not, but his instructions are to not pressure wash the block. He’s been doing this, as you know Kent, for 40+ years and if Steve says it, it’s gospel.
Is the OP’s block sleeved? Because I was trying to answer his question…….
OP’s block is not sleeved, as far as I know. I was simply putting the info out there since a wash cabinet (pressurized wash) got brought up. I apologize if I got you upset about that.
OP’s block is not sleeved, as far as I know. I was simply putting the info out there since a wash cabinet (pressurized wash) got brought up. I apologize if I got you upset about that.
I’ll be honest, I’ve had very good luck with the spray wash cabinet at my machinist shop, when I pick up my blocks and such, they are clean and if the machinist says it’s ready, it is, without issue. Could just be there’s real effort there getting stuff clean. He charges for it.
I jetwash/pressure wash aluminum LS blocks all the time, sleeved or not. It is always the FINAL wash procedure I use after machining, I also wash them before I start to keep my machines and my hands clean. I immediately air dry and oil cylinders before they 'flash' rust. Soap chemicals with rust inhibitors are critical as is maintenance of the solution. I don't have problems other than I don't get the dingy aluminum looking good. If it is stained with burnt oil or has a corroded/oxidized exterior it basically looks the same after jetwashing, just oil free. If I want the outside to look as good as the inside I media blast them with fine silicon sand, 180 grit. It is a PITA, but they look good when I am done. I have worked with some real crappy blocks that look mint when I am done, but it is a lot of labor. I don't like it, but I charge for it. Don't like giving someone a crappy looking block with real nice machine work. Just doesn't feel right.
Aftermarket sleeves can move, but when I put a torque plate on or the heads, they better sit flush after it is removed. Prior to decking, after jetwashing, I use a torque plate to be sure they are seated or I wouldn't machine it. A/M SBC, SBF and BBCs are no different than sleeved LS blocks when it comes to seating sleeves.
Before final assembly I always spend a good bit of time wiping the cylinders with a lint free white paper towel until it comes out with no color other than the ATF on it. No problems with ring seal in 25 years doing this.
I use a combo of acetone, forumla 88, and brake cleaner in the cleaninng process. Obviously, everything gets brushed to death. Real dirty alum gets sprayed w/ acid and comes out like new. I wash my cyl walls w/ brake cleaner till a white paper towel comes out white when i wipe it. Then gets rubbed down w/ Rotella for break-in. As clean I get it, i still want it cleaner. FYI, you cant do this w/ an alum block, but baking an iron block is the ****. Literally looks new when it comes out. This is a pic of the oil galley on one of Buick Nailheads I build. I take pics of near everything when I assemble so there is no questions after the fact.
07-22-2021, 08:11 PM
Hot tanking a block 
