ETriggs

I have a 2008 aluminum 5.3 that’s been honed for stock pistons/rings and new cam bearings. I’m looking to build an engine that will get me 400-430HP (370-400 at rear wheel) but I’m looking to make it as bulletproof and long lasting as possible. I know that’s sort of the anthesis of this forum, but it will be going in a 55 Chevy 2 door sedan that’s a cruiser.

Question is, would it be best for me to just go with all stock short block? Any parts out there I need to go aftermarket to make it more durable?

G Atsma

The stock short block is fine. Get some 243/799 heads and put a good multiangle valve job on it and get the bowls blended.
Then put a Stage 2 or 3 BTR truck cam in it. It will lope enough to show it means business.

ETriggs

So, from the BTR website, this would be a decent start? Are the GM springs better/worse than the BTR version?

Kawboom

This is a good opportunity to ask BTR themselves, they would know more about their product.

Bspeck82

I would take advantage of holiday deals and get a cam and head combo to reach your goals

SLWRDE

iTrader: (4)

If its going to be Naturally Aspirated then I would sell the 5.3 and get a 6.0L (LQ4, LQ9, LY6, L96). The 6.0L would get you that power level easily and will give you room to grow if you decide you want more power down the road. My L96 that I have in my 1965 Cutlass came stock with 360hp/380tq. Install a decent set of heads (243, 799, 823), truck intake manifold, cam, springs, pushrods, headers and you are GTG! If you want to increase the compression install some flat tops and a thinner head gasket (just check PTV clearance with your choice of cam).

Here is what I have in my 1965 Cutlass
Engine: L96 Gen IV 6.0L (replaced the dish pistons with some Mahle Flat Top Pistons)
Cam: Cam Motion 224/236 .595/.595 112 +3
Heads: 823's with BTR dual valve spring kit and BTR .040 head gaskets
Intake: Truck manifold
Headers: Hooker Long Tubes
ECU: Holley Terminator X Max
Trans: 4L80 with FTI 3200 stall

G Atsma

2008 5.3's already have flat tops and came with 243/799 heads. He just needs to put a good cam in it for 400 HP.

SLWRDE

iTrader: (4)

G, Atsma,

I agree, but you know as well as I do, everyone always wants more power down the road and the 6.0L can easily make that power.

ETriggs

Well, that’s sort of my thought with the 5.3 is that I’m somewhat forcing myself to keep it tame. I’m also trying to get decent mileage since it will make a lot of long distance drives.

SLWRDE

iTrader: (4)

Triggs,

What trans and rear gear are you running behind your 5.3?

My Cutlass is just an all-out street cruising car (never been to the track and never will) and some can argue on here that for just a street car I went overboard on my build and transmission of choice, but it was my first ever LS build and I was like you in that I wanted something built with quality/durability and longevity.

In my opinion: WS6Store/RPMSpeed, Summit Racing, Cam Motion, and BTR seem to have the best parts, prices and customer service for an LS build and that's who I went through for all of my parts.

If you need any help or have any questions please let me know. G Atsma is a wealth of knowledge as well.

ETriggs

Well, I have my choice as it will be a Muncie M20, TH400, or 4L60E. I have the Muncie and TH400, I would find a 4L60 if that would work better. Rear will be a C4 Dana 36, haven’t chosen the ratio yet.

grubinski

Good thinking. It pays to keep the goal in mind ... max power isn't always the goal that makes sense.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Honestly pretty much any mild combination will last longer than you'll likely live at that power level unless you plan on driving it as daily driver. A mild stock type rebuild with a small cam should last well over 200,000 miles.
They are a relatively light car from the factory and with the all aluminum V8 it should rip pretty good with a basically stock 5.3

ETriggs

If I can work out the insurance company to let me daily drive it, I will.

SLWRDE

iTrader: (4)

Who is your insurance company? I use American Car Collector (fully covered) and I believe all plans are based on mileage used within a year for our old cars.

pdxmotorhead

You can also use a regular company for base coverage and use a collector car supplemental coverage to cover the total loss scenario.

ETriggs

I have Hagerty for my 57 Chevy and 60 Bonneville, I will use it for the 55 Chevy when I build it too.

FormulaBoat

iTrader: (1)

Similar engine, the stock all aluminum 5.3L LH8 (non-VVT) in my 2009 Colorado daily driver has 278,000 miles on it and growing daily, 300hp factory rating. She runs good still, solid as a rock. Stock starter, water pump, sensors, all of it. I just wash the outside of the engine several times a year and coat with WD-40, do frequent oil changes, and don't abuse it (WOT only once oil is warm). I have a set of GM dealership replacement valve springs and valve seals ready to go in at 300k just for security, but it is kind of a science project to see how long it can last. I'm guessing an exhaust valve head will come off eventually from acidic exhaust gas corrosion? Not sure how many miles you intend to cruise in the 55'. Add cam, headers, turn the conservative timing up, and it would probably do what you want with more reliability than you will need (ie, you won't be able to wear it out). I'd just use all new stock GM parts for such build, sans cam and exhaust. Pistons, bearings, oil pump, rings, timing set, etc..... I'd pick at least a 4 speed overdrive trans with lockup converter to target your long distance highway cruising RPM to approx 2,000 if possible, if you are trying to achieve fuel economy and long distance reliability.

I do have a stock LS-3 build ready to replace it, but waiting to see how far I can go on this one first.

ETriggs

I only drive about 10-12k a year, maybe half of that would be in the 55.

ETriggs

862 heads. Good, bad, or ugly?