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Hey, everyone! Michael here from the LS1Tech editorial team. Wanted to let everyone know that we're starting a new project over on the front page, stuffing an LS3 E-ROD Connect & Cruise system -- courtesy of Guaranty Chevrolet in Santa Ana, California -- into a 1992 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon.
This should be in the Conversions and Hybrids section
Come on, Curated Content Editor, you SHOULD know better.
Unless, of course, you don't....
Uhh, WHY is it in Gen IV INTERNAL?? You're not going INSIDE the engine, which would defeat the purpose of using this engine. Warranty would be history...
Whoops, I'm gonna be honest, man, I mostly write words and take pretty pictures for a living. Across 20+ different websites, including this one. And I was doing three things at once today and saw LS3 and PERFORMANCE and started clicking.
We'll get this moved. But thanks for the sarcasm, it gave me a good laugh. Cheers!
I was kind of stunned to see a banner ad for this pop-up on my phone last night, since I just (two weeks ago) finished this exact (LS3 E-Rod) swap into my 1992 Roadmaster wagon.
I have the car smogged and driving, with about 500 miles on it now. My intention from the start was to keep the car looking absolutely stock, and the only thing I had to add externally was a second exhaust pipe which I painted matte black at the tips so you couldn’t see it. Even left the tow hitch receiver in place for full Uncle Bob effect.
I used mostly original equipment parts throughout - the radiator is original (can't remember), the fans are Ford Windstar, part number FA70028. I used the original fan housing to join them together. I wired the ECU to run one fan, and a Hayden fan controller to run the second at 10 degrees over the preferred operating temp.
My exhaust is a 2.5in dual system that came in a box from Rock Auto. On the crate cats, I had to re-weld new O2 bungs in different positions to stock.
Shift linkage is a Classic Performance CPTSL that I bent, cut and rewelded. The gauges are all stock and everything talks minus the Low Oil warning light below the HVAC panel, since there’s no low oil warning on the LS3. I used mostly original senders with adapters where needed, except the BS oil pressure idiot 'switch' sender thing from the TBI engine, which I replaced with a proper sender (ACDelco 12553175) that now gives real scale on the stock instrument cluster gauge.
I had to rework the crossmember for the second exhaust. I chopped it in at the exhaust crossover point, removing about 3.5 inches, and welded a thick piece of falt bar over the top. Seems to do the job just fine.
Brakes are stock and work fine, aside from being enormously over-assisted and having absolutely no feel. I don't like them, but whatever.
The steering I left alone. I tried the Jeep shaft rag joint coupler on my first Roadmaster (a 95) and it drove like trash - grabby and weird feeling - so I took it back to stock and was happy again. Lots of turns and a bit of slack seems to suit the rest of the car - I think GM has amazing chassis engineers who mostly nail it, regardless of the mission (yes, even on this boat). Without wanting to sound like a Big Swinging D___, I once absolutely Gapplebee'd a pair of posers in Porsche 964s on Angeles Crest in my '95 LT1 wagon. Stock LT1 car with polybushed front end, coupled with some crappy driving on their part. They're good handling cars, despite what everyone says - you just have to load up the suspension ready for the corner well before you get there, and then fine tune your trajectory using the power rather than the steering. Think like a motorcycle. Anyway, that moment gave me enormous pleasure and will stay with me forever - "It's time to get a new hobby, lads".
Engine mounts were Dirty Dingo and AC brackets are from ICT Billet (Part Number 551585X-3), who are on here and were really helpful (thanks Ryan). The alternator is 8247N, on a bracket from a 2000-ish Silverado (local pick-your-part). I fitted a truck crank pulley (19300488), which required spacing the water pump 1.5in using ICT's Pump Spacer Kit 551697. I’ve seen other setups used but this one meant I didn't have to move anything else around on that side of the bay. The power steering pump is GM 15909832 with pulley 12605677.
Radiator hoses are Delco 26195X for the upper, and Gates 21207 mated with a coupler to something else I can't remember right now.
My high pressure fuel pump was from a Corvette, I think. It fitted the stock tank. I used the Corvette filter / regulator with the built in return and single line to the fuel rail. I think mine is a fake part (bought it from Amazon), because I get a rich-mixture DTC at idle, so I need to switch that out. I'd buy that from a GM dealer because apparently there are fakes everywhere.
On that note, I also found the parts desk at my local dealer (Jessup Chevrolet in Cathedral City) to be totally useless and really rude in the few interactions I had with them. They treated me like I was an absolute idiot, and then later like I was wasting my money. Both correct, but I don't need some guy who works at a parts desk using me as an emotional punchbag when all I'm trying to do is spend some cash with them. Rant over.
The E-Rod paperwork includes a voucher for initial crank position sensor calibration which another asshat at Jessup told me was counterfeit / garbage / useless when I tried to redeem it, so I had to have that done by a local shop (Performance Plus Automotive of Cathedral City) who were amazingly accommodating and friendly. Funny that - dealer is awful, local shop is super cool. The guys at my local NAPA were also really helpful and cool and into this ridiculous endeavor.
I tried and returned lots of parts to get this thing right, so hopefully this will help you, and others doing this swap, save some time. In short, I found it to be a pretty simple conversion, the hardest parts probably being making the gas pedal bracket (weird angles involved), and routing 30ft of exhaust under the car with no access to a proper lift.
I’m in Palm Springs if you want to check it out.
Also, I appear to have two usernames on here - this one, and 'jamlip'. I am locked out of the jamlip one got a 'tough luck' when I emailed the site admin. Anyway, if you search for that username there are some questions I asked a while back which might help you with your build.
Last edited by James Lipman; 12-22-2021 at 02:41 PM.
Reason: Correcting some earlier misinformation, added part numbers
Whoops, I'm gonna be honest, man, I mostly write words and take pretty pictures for a living. Across 20+ different websites, including this one. And I was doing three things at once today and saw LS3 and PERFORMANCE and started clicking.
We'll get this moved. But thanks for the sarcasm, it gave me a good laugh. Cheers!
Hey, all is good! it's now in the right spot.
But enough of this blather, let's see the nuts-and-bolts side of this! lol
I was kind of stunned to see a banner ad for this pop-up on my phone last night, since I just (two weeks ago) finished this exact (LS3 E-Rod) swap into my 1992 Roadmaster wagon.
I have the car smogged and driving, with about 500 miles on it now. My intention from the start was to keep the car looking absolutely stock, and the only thing I had to add externally was a second exhaust pipe which I painted matte black at the tips so you couldn’t see it. Even left the tow hitch receiver in place for full Uncle Bob effect.
I used mostly original equipment parts throughout - the radiator is original (can't remember), the fans are Ford Windstar, part number FA70028. I used the original fan housing to join them together. I wired the ECU to run one fan, and a Hayden fan controller to run the second at 10 degrees over the preferred operating temp.
My exhaust is a 2.5in dual system that came in a box from Rock Auto. I had to weld new O2 bungs in different positions to the stock setup.
Shift linkage is a Classic Performance CPTSL that I bent, cut and rewelded. The gauges are all stock and everything talks minus the Low Oil warning light below the HVAC panel, since there’s no low oil warning on the LS3. I used mostly original senders with adapters where needed, except the BS oil pressure idiot 'switch' sender thing from the TBI engine, which I replaced with a proper sender (ACDelco 12553175) that now gives real scale on the stock instrument cluster gauge.
I had to rework the crossmember for the second exhaust. I chopped it in at the exhaust crossover point, removing about 3.5 inches, and welded a thick piece of falt bar over the top. Seems to do the job just fine.
Brakes are stock and work fine, aside from being enormously over-assisted and having absolutely no feel. I don't like them, but whatever.
The steering I left alone. I tried the Jeep shaft rag joint coupler on my first Roadmaster (a 95) and it drove like trash - grabby and weird feeling - so I took it back to stock and was happy again. Lots of turns and a bit of slack seems to suit the rest of the car - I think GM has amazing chassis engineers who mostly nail it, regardless of the mission (yes, even on this boat). Without wanting to sound like a Big Swinging D___, I once absolutely Gapplebee'd a pair of posers in Porsche 964s on Angeles Crest in my '95 LT1 wagon. Stock LT1 car with polybushed front end, coupled with some crappy driving on their part. They're good handling cars, despite what everyone says - you just have to load up the suspension ready for the corner well before you get there, and then fine tune your trajectory using the power rather than the steering. Think like a motorcycle. Anyway, that moment gave me enormous pleasure and will stay with me forever - "It's time to get a new hobby, lads".
Engine mounts were Dirty Dingo and AC brackets are from ICT Billet (Part Number 551585X-3), who are on here and were really helpful (thanks Ryan). The alternator is 8247N, on a bracket from a 2000-ish Silverado (local pick-your-part). I fitted a truck crank pulley (19300488), which required spacing the water pump 1.5in using ICT's Pump Spacer Kit 551697. I’ve seen other setups used but this one meant I didn't have to move anything else around on that side of the bay. The power steering pump is GM 15909832 with pulley 12605677.
Radiator hoses are Delco 26195X for the upper, and Gate 21207 mated with a coupler to something else I can't remember right now.
My high pressure fuel pump was from a Corvette, I think. It fitted the stock tank. I used the Corvette filter / regulator with the built in return and single line to the fuel rail. I think mine is a fake part (bought it from Amazon), because I get a rich-mixture DTC at idle, so I need to switch that out. I'd buy that from a GM dealer because apparently there are fakes everywhere.
On that note, I also found the parts desk at my local dealer (Jessup Chevrolet in Cathedral City) to be totally useless and really rude in the few interactions I had with them. They treated me like I was an absolute idiot, and then later like I was wasting my money. Both correct, but I don't need some guy who works at a parts desk using me as an emotional punchbag. Sorry, rant over.
The E-Rod paperwork includes a voucher for initial crank position sensor calibration which another asshat at Jessup told me was counterfeit / garbage / useless, so I had to have that done by a local shop (Performance Plus Automotive of Cathedral City) who were amazingly accommodating and friendly. Funny that - dealer is awful, local shop is super cool.
I tried and returned lots of parts to get this thing right, so hopefully this will help you, and others doing this swap, save some time. In short, I found it to be a pretty simple conversion, the hardest parts probably being making the gas pedal bracket (weird angles involved), and routing 30ft of exhaust under the car with no access to a proper lift.
I’m in Palm Springs if you want to check it out.
Also, I appear to have two usernames on here - this one, and 'jamlip'. I am locked out of the jamlip one got a 'tough luck' when I emailed the site admin. Anyway, if you search for that username there are some questions I asked a while back which might help you with your build.
Wow, thanks for the detailed post, sorry I missed it earlier. Do you have any pics or videos??? And I might need to reach out if I hit any deadends, hahaha.
For example, why did we need a new shifter linkage? Did you switch to a console-style like the 96 Impala? Or what am I missing? Thanks!
And thanks for the tip on the jeep shaft. I'm gonna try to see if I like it, but I won't' toss the old one. Maybe I could just get a new rag joint if needed (I have SO MUCH on-center slop). I am excited about the quick-ratio steering box regardless
Lastly, I won't be able to hit up Palm Springs for a while, but when I'm done we'll have to meet up. And let me know if you come to LA.
Wow, thanks for the detailed post, sorry I missed it earlier. Do you have any pics or videos??? And I might need to reach out if I hit any deadends, hahaha.
For example, why did we need a new shifter linkage? Did you switch to a console-style like the 96 Impala? Or what am I missing? Thanks!
And thanks for the tip on the jeep shaft. I'm gonna try to see if I like it, but I won't' toss the old one. Maybe I could just get a new rag joint if needed (I have SO MUCH on-center slop). I am excited about the quick-ratio steering box regardless
Lastly, I won't be able to hit up Palm Springs for a while, but when I'm done we'll have to meet up. And let me know if you come to LA.
Cheers.
I was actually in Culver City / LAX area for work all last week and took the car. It's really great on the freeway.
One thing I'll say now is this - I was initially a bit disappointed with the performance. 430bhp sounds like a lot, but this is a big, heavy car. It's not going to set your nuts alight.
But I've warmed to it now. The chassis is very collected, even on stock wheels, tires and suspension like I have, and it just feels like the Roadmaster was always meant to have this engine. It gets up and ploughs forward like a speedboat at freeway speeds, which is good fun.
I changed the shift linkage because the selector shaft on a 700R4 is completely different to the (splined) shaft on a 4L65E. I had to rework the way the rose joints attached to the linkage so it didn't foul the catalytic converters. It's a really tight interface down there. Some points in the engine you have acres of space, and others you're chasing 16ths of an inch. You've already discovered the header clearance situation, but liberal use of a grinder will get you where you need to be.
I like the big sway bar idea - I think, in particular, that controlling the roll really help the Roadmaster handle - but you might find that quick rack hard work on the freeway. I shimmed a touch more caster into my old Roady to keep it from wandering at speed, but the slop actually helps too. It sounds counterintuitive without actually being there to experience it. Either way, worth seeing what happens - it's all part of the fun.
I was actually in Culver City / LAX area for work all last week and took the car. It's really great on the freeway.
One thing I'll say now is this - I was initially a bit disappointed with the performance. 430bhp sounds like a lot, but this is a big, heavy car. It's not going to set your nuts alight.
But I've warmed to it now. The chassis is very collected, even on stock wheels, tires and suspension like I have, and it just feels like the Roadmaster was always meant to have this engine. It gets up and ploughs forward like a speedboat at freeway speeds, which is good fun.
I changed the shift linkage because the selector shaft on a 700R4 is completely different to the (splined) shaft on a 4L65E. I had to rework the way the rose joints attached to the linkage so it didn't foul the catalytic converters. It's a really tight interface down there. Some points in the engine you have acres of space, and others you're chasing 16ths of an inch. You've already discovered the header clearance situation, but liberal use of a grinder will get you where you need to be.
I like the big sway bar idea - I think, in particular, that controlling the roll really help the Roadmaster handle - but you might find that quick rack hard work on the freeway. I shimmed a touch more caster into my old Roady to keep it from wandering at speed, but the slop actually helps too. It sounds counterintuitive without actually being there to experience it. Either way, worth seeing what happens - it's all part of the fun.
Thanks for all of the tips. I have much to learn still.
Also, I live 10 mins away from LAX so hit me up if work pops up this way again!
I should add that I know 430hp isn't the end-all-be-all, I've driven faster and lighter. But I'm shooting more for a grand tourer feel that doesn't overload the chassis (or become extremely unsafe for family outings. And since I don't have LT1 ownership experience, my jump up the ladder will be a little more significant
A friend in San Diego LQ4 (or LQ9, can't remember) swapped his 1964 Wagoneer about the same time I was doing mine. Without all the cats and wiring and stuff, he was done well before me.
We drove each other's cars and the Wagoneer feels absolutely mental, even with 80hp less than the Roadmaster. It's like riding a piano down a ski slope.
Different styles, same mission - he has kids and lives near the beach.
Hi Michael,
Brakes are stock and work fine, aside from being enormously over-assisted and having absolutely no feel. I don't like them, but whatever.
I do not know about wagon, but my 92 caprice sedan conversion kit are work.
Made from zero to complete kit. Calipers from opel insignia, redrilled bolt pattern on rear disk brakes from mercedes w221 300mm. orks with sock 15inch wheels. But there need some work with axle and rebolt pattern on ...
It possible to use Vw phaeton calipers with bigger pads... But need same machined work + grind caliper bracket.
Anyway, there is a lot of other conversion options like 2wd blazer or stock impalass rear disk brakes too..
Im my case, i can make any diameter rear disk brakes... the construction of mounting plates have possiblities for this from conception.
12-15-2021, 03:27 PM
CARB Legal LS3 Wagon Swap Project (Official Build Thread) 
About brakes...