ETriggs

I’m putting together a mild 2008 aluminum 5.3 with 706 heads and was wondering which would be better to use, the ARP studs or bolts? This engine is going in my 57 Chevy, it’s gonna be a highway cruiser so I am looking for longevity and reliability foremost. Thanks!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-134-3610

or

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-5608

G Atsma

For mild applications. the stock torque to yield bolts will be fine. Just be sure to use the correct procedure to torque them.

ETriggs

Any particular brand the best? I see a ton online.

ETriggs

Would these GM from Rock Auto work well?

MuhThugga

I would just get the ARP head bolts. The reason being that they are reusable and the GM bolts are not. So, if you have to pull the heads even one time after initial install, you are basically at the cost of the ARP bolts with your second set of GM bolts.

Head studs aren't needed for a mild build, or really any pump gas NA build.

ETriggs

Thanks!

G Atsma

Your Gen IV block will use the later (all short) head bolts.

TrendSetter

Real gm bolts or arp are both good choices.
oem gm are good bolts their only downside is you shouldn’t reuse them.
As an example of their strength I have reused them, impacted down with used head gaskets and 14ish psi boost it was enough to scatter two transmissions and the motor never cared.
never reuse oem bolts unless you are ready for them to fail. I only did it to see what would happen.

RB04Av

Yerbasic replacement ones, such as Fel-Pro, are every bit as good as GM. Keeping in mind of course, 2 very important things: (1) GM, for replacement purposes such as at the GM store over the counter, doesn't "make" those, they just buy em from somebody and put em in a box with those nice reassuring letters all over it and charge about 4 times as much as you can buy the same thing for from somewhere else; and (2) the instructions in the FSM for your vehicle were for the bolts GM was providing to their stores AT THE TIME THE FSM WAS WRITTEN, and don't apply to ANYTHING you can buy today.

You'll be fine with any of the quality OEM grade replacements. Fel-Pro, Mahle, Victor-Reinz, etc. Follow the instructions that come with the bolts, NOT the FSM, if they differ, because the bolts themselves may not be the same as they were back in ... what year was it? What year was your car's FSM printed? Some decades ago? ... Time marches on.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Indeed. GM doesn’t build parts, they build vehicles.

ETriggs

I did find some of the cheaper stud kits on eBay, has anyone used them? Again, this engine won’t see more than 400-450HP on its best day.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17417893496...mis&media=COPY

SlowTBSS

I used ARP bolts for my N/A 402, almost 700hp so they should work just fine in this situation. You couldn't pay me to use anything other than ARP or GM bolts. Cheaping out just isn't worth it. Buy once, cry once.

Just remember, especially while using studs, the block should be torque plate honed because the added clamping force can distort the block.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Agree here 100%. Always ask your machinist to plate hone with whatever fasteners you choose, be it Oem, ARP bolts, or ARP studs. They will all give a slightly different result in final plate honing.

ETriggs

Gotcha, I asked what he used and he has a set of what he used in stock. I will just get those. Thanks!

Edit to add, they're ARP bolts.