Ls2 Stroker Questions
 

I Just Bought A 408 Eagle Stroker Kit Will This Kit Work With The Ls2 Block. I Was Originally Going To Go With The 6.0l Iron Block But If I Could Get The Ls2 Block To Work That Would Be Great. I See That There Are A Few Things That Will Not Work With The Ls2 But What About The Internals Would I Have To Sleeve The Ls2 Block??? Any Help Would Greatly Be Appreciated.

I dunno if Darton has come out with sleeves for the LS2 yet. When they do, that'll be the block of choice for motor builders I would suspect. Nice christmas present to yourself btw. ;)

so does that mean that it will not take the 408 without sleeving it or does anyone know

if you could trade back your pistons to a 4.00 bore instead of 4.03 only assembly would be required.

We are trying very hard to find out for sure how far the LS2 block will bore. As of now we "think" it will only go to 4.020, but we are not exacly sure. If by chance it would go 4.030, your kit would work great! We are building 402ci short blocks for the simple reason we don't want to take a chance at going with to big of a bore. Wile I am at the PRI show I plan to ask everyone I can that might be able to tell me the answer to this.

Something to think about. If Eagle will give you credit on the pistons you recieved, I can get you into a set of our Diamond pistons that are built for a 4.000 bore. Let me know if I can help!!

sweet so you are telling me if i get the 4.00 pistons then the rest will work?

Should work with out a problem. Do you know the length of the rod they sent you? 6.100 or 6.125? My piston works with the 6.125, and you might check with Eagle. They could have a piston for you as well!

As said, you can swap pistons for an LS2 block, but you could also see about boring an LS2 block to the diameter you want.
There's a thread above that references an engine builder claiming he's going to build an LS2 block .060" over. He's already sonic tested the block. I don't know how much one block varies from another, but I think your chances of going .030" over might be pretty good.
And don't forget that there are some other things you'll need to deal with when going with the Gen IV block. It uses different knock sensors and no one yet has a solution to this other than disabling knock retard in your computer.
You'll need to extend the cam sensor harness up to the front of the block.
You need an LS2 water pump.
Otherwise you won't have too much trouble. I assume you'll want to upgrade your induction to go with the higher cubes?

Why do we need an LS2 water pump? I understand the stock one bolts up..

I'm not the least bit certain about that but thought that the front-mounted cam sensor resulted in a change to other parts up front.
If it's not the water pump, do you know what other parts or accessories are incompatible on the LS2?

These are all that's needed, atleast this is what has been conveyed from some of our sponcers:

*front cover
*timming set
*cam sensor
*front seal & gasket
*valley cover

And I am not at all certain that the knock sensors are a problem at all. If knock has a characteristic frequency than the KS can here it whether or not it is in the block or in the valley cover. It may hear it better in the valley cover, but the block location shoud work.

How many of us have our pcms set to the original 12 deg of KR allowed anyhow. Mine are limited to 2 deg of KR for each event rather than 12 (of course I holed a piston also, but remember we have been hurting cast pistons not forged).

Perry

If they work on the side of the block, that's fine by me as long as it's not more prone to false KR. I have had mine set down to 4 deg. but I have some false KR and zeroed it out anyway. I know, not a good idea, but I keep a close eye on it and the A/F is right on the money.

Dan