Started the install of my LS2 402 from SLP (w/ Pics)
01-18-2006, 08:41 PM
#101
TECH Resident
Join Date: May 2005
Location: 8000DA Land
Posts: 983
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
I
98Z28CobraKiller, get the engine inspected before you even install it. Check the thickness at the top of the piston with a micrometer, and see if it is within spec, if not, then return it immediately.
98Z28CobraKiller, get the engine inspected before you even install it. Check the thickness at the top of the piston with a micrometer, and see if it is within spec, if not, then return it immediately.
01-19-2006, 06:54 AM
#102
How do I check it w/o pulling a piston out? Can it be checked this way? I think that I will call SLP today and break their ***** a little. I will let you guys know what I find out and will post the info here and at the other thread. I will make them give me some micrometer readings of what they are using in order to check against my block. What thickness would be considered unacceptable for the piston?
I have a question with regards to that other thread. Even if they are too thin as stated in that thread, why would 5 of them fail all the same exact time "while idleing in the Walgreens parking lot"? The chances are like a million to one. I'm not saying that he is lieing or anything but something is missing in the interpretation there.
I have a question with regards to that other thread. Even if they are too thin as stated in that thread, why would 5 of them fail all the same exact time "while idleing in the Walgreens parking lot"? The chances are like a million to one. I'm not saying that he is lieing or anything but something is missing in the interpretation there.
01-19-2006, 02:10 PM
#105
OK, I called SLP w/ regards to problem that Voodoo454 was having with their engine. I am not going to get into it here because it is a distraction from this thread and the purposes of it. I am not going to tear this motor back down and will be pushing forward with my project. If you would like to read my findings, go to the thread link below to see how my conversation went.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...46#post4110946
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...46#post4110946
01-19-2006, 02:21 PM
#106
On The Tree
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mti built my first one.i really cant point a finger as what went wrong,just the fact that it did.your engine looked just like mine,i never did figgure why those pistons were black.never heard any thing out of the ordinary untill we tore it down to see why we were going so slow in the 1/4.the last pass we made was about a 12.7@108 in that shape!it would not have been much longer,then boom.
01-19-2006, 06:26 PM
#108
[QUOTE=dragonZ28] 
QUOTE]
Watch those front brake lines. All that weight pulling down on them is not good. That can cause tiny stress cracks that may eventually lead to line failure. Now might be a good time to upgrade to braided stainless lines
. I checked them and I noticed that the passenger side was cracked a little. So, I guess I have to bite the bullet and buy some lines. Where can I get some of the braided ones that you spoke off. I went to the dealer and they wanted $45 each for the factory ones and did not have them in stock.
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
QUOTE]
Watch those front brake lines. All that weight pulling down on them is not good. That can cause tiny stress cracks that may eventually lead to line failure. Now might be a good time to upgrade to braided stainless lines
.
01-19-2006, 09:09 PM
#109
FormerVendor
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=98Z28CobraKiller]
I checked them and I noticed that the passenger side was cracked a little. So, I guess I have to bite the bullet and buy some lines. Where can I get some of the braided ones that you spoke off. I went to the dealer and they wanted $45 each for the factory ones and did not have them in stock. Yep, I knew that they would be a little worn. Go to Thunder Racing and get their braided lines. They look pimp, and you can't go wrong with replacing the ones you have.
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
I checked them and I noticed that the passenger side was cracked a little. So, I guess I have to bite the bullet and buy some lines. Where can I get some of the braided ones that you spoke off. I went to the dealer and they wanted $45 each for the factory ones and did not have them in stock.
01-20-2006, 07:07 AM
#110
OK, I just ordered the brake lines. Hopefully they will be here by Tuesday. I think that Louisiana is 2 days from S Florida by ground. I will likely have the k-member back in the car by then but it doesn't look like a big deal to do even in the car.
Gonna tackle the upgraded hydraulics this afternoon for the T56. The instructions that I found said that you need a buddy to help. I unfortunately gotta do it alone because I work on it when most of my friends are at work. I will let you guys know.
Gonna tackle the upgraded hydraulics this afternoon for the T56. The instructions that I found said that you need a buddy to help. I unfortunately gotta do it alone because I work on it when most of my friends are at work. I will let you guys know.
01-22-2006, 10:52 AM
#112
Well, yesterday I did the Upgrade to the hydraulics for the clutch and I did the drill mod that I heard was essential to keeping the tranny healthy. What a pain in the ***! I am a pretty big boy and slipping under the dash backwards and upside down is NOT comfortable. The part that hooks to the pedal and the reservoir looked identical to what I removed and replaced. The peice that goes in the tranny was different though. The Spec clutch came with a throwout bearing but the upgraded hydraulics also came with one. Does it make any difference on which one I should use? The clutch and flywheel aslo came with a shim that it says to install behind the piece that goes in the tranny. Do I use this also?
01-22-2006, 12:11 PM
#113
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
On with the build.
Today I installed the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, 1 3/4 jethot headers, ignition, thundervolt wires and NGK TR55IK plugs. Here are the pictures.
Today I installed the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, 1 3/4 jethot headers, ignition, thundervolt wires and NGK TR55IK plugs. Here are the pictures.
Perry
01-22-2006, 02:13 PM
#115
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
i didnt grind anything but then again, the k-member is not in the car. i may have some obstacles when i drop the car back on the k-member.
You are getting there.
I will definitely say the car is wonderful. Mine has been down since Thanksgiving for maintenance and I put it back on the road this week and you gotta love 550 hp!
Perry
01-22-2006, 05:44 PM
#116
OK I need some help. Trying to get the tranny back on and I cant get it to slide all of the way in. It is just out of the reach of the tranny bolts. Are you not supposed to put the bellhousing on the car first? Should I bolt the bellhousing to the tranny first and then bolt the bellhousing to the motor? I am stumped and frustrated.
01-22-2006, 06:57 PM
#117
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Destin FL
Posts: 4,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
OK I need some help. Trying to get the tranny back on and I cant get it to slide all of the way in. It is just out of the reach of the tranny bolts. Are you not supposed to put the bellhousing on the car first? Should I bolt the bellhousing to the tranny first and then bolt the bellhousing to the motor? I am stumped and frustrated.
01-23-2006, 09:24 PM
#119
I did use the plastic clutch tool but I used it incorrectly. I let the clutch plate hang on it rather than centering it properly. When I would put the tool in after it was all together, it would go in really tight. A buddy told me that it should go in real easy. I took the bellhousing back off, then I removed the pressure plate and aligned it even all of the way around. I left the bellhousing a little loose and pushed the tranny in nice and easy. Got the bolts started in the tranny and then tightened the bellhousing and then the tranny bolts.
I then installed my Pro 5.0 power shifter. Does the shorter shaft that comes with it work ok or will it be too short?
I then installed all of the wiring harnesses and the knock sensors on either side of the block. I hope that they aren't too close to the headers. Like 1 1/2 inches away.
I rolled the block and tranny under the car. I have dropped the car down low enough to get the strut towers bolted in. My next thing is getting the k-member bolts lined up to the front subframe in order to get the bolts started. It looks like it is sitting a little back right now and I need to get some leg power under the car and push the hole thing forward a little. That's for tomorrow hopefully.
I then installed my Pro 5.0 power shifter. Does the shorter shaft that comes with it work ok or will it be too short?
I then installed all of the wiring harnesses and the knock sensors on either side of the block. I hope that they aren't too close to the headers. Like 1 1/2 inches away.
I rolled the block and tranny under the car. I have dropped the car down low enough to get the strut towers bolted in. My next thing is getting the k-member bolts lined up to the front subframe in order to get the bolts started. It looks like it is sitting a little back right now and I need to get some leg power under the car and push the hole thing forward a little. That's for tomorrow hopefully.
