LS7 Block questions
#1
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Will a 4 " stroke Ls1 crank 6.125 rods and 4.125 mahle pistons go into the
Ls7 block wondering about the dry sump and length of the Ls7 crank
versus - Basically could you use this block which is less money than
a sleeved Ls1 or C5R block
Ls7 block wondering about the dry sump and length of the Ls7 crank
versus - Basically could you use this block which is less money than
a sleeved Ls1 or C5R block
#3
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how can you justify a "stronger setup" when you have to drill out the old cylinder liners, then heat up the block and press the new liners in? How does completely remachining a block make it stronger? I would think that heating up an aluminum block hot enough to slide a new cylinder liner in would distort the block, and thus weaken the block.
#4
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Originally Posted by ram09
how can you justify a "stronger setup" when you have to drill out the old cylinder liners, then heat up the block and press the new liners in? How does completely remachining a block make it stronger? I would think that heating up an aluminum block hot enough to slide a new cylinder liner in would distort the block, and thus weaken the block.
#7
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Originally Posted by proautoman
Will a 4 " stroke Ls1 crank 6.125 rods and 4.125 mahle pistons go into the
Ls7 block wondering about the dry sump and length of the Ls7 crank
versus - Basically could you use this block which is less money than
a sleeved Ls1 or C5R block
Ls7 block wondering about the dry sump and length of the Ls7 crank
versus - Basically could you use this block which is less money than
a sleeved Ls1 or C5R block
As far as price is concerned regarding a resleeved GM block (LS2 is preferred) versus a brand new LS7 block you need to shop around. If you are comfortable with a resleeved block and can get it cheaper keep that open as an option. The LS2 block dry sleeved has already proven itself to be very reliable... much more so than when LS1 blocks were being dry sleeved and stretched to 4.1+ bore.
As another option keep your eyes open for an L92 block and aftermarket progress on them... not quite the bore of an LS7 block but more than a factory LS2 and apparantly much cheaper than an LS7 block.
Shop, shop till you drop... you'll thank yourself in the end...
Bill
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Last edited by billreid1@cox.net; 06-20-2006 at 06:12 PM.
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#8
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Blocks are not heated to install sleeves. The sleeves are chilled in the refrigerator then installed into a room temperature block.
The centrifugally cast ductile iron Darton LS7 sleeves are much stronger than the gray iron factory liners. This allows one to bore them out to 4.1875" for normally aspirated use.
Steve
The centrifugally cast ductile iron Darton LS7 sleeves are much stronger than the gray iron factory liners. This allows one to bore them out to 4.1875" for normally aspirated use.
Steve
Originally Posted by ram09
i dont doubt that the sleeves themselves are stronger, my concern lies with the block itself and the heating involved to install the sleeves.
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
#10
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Just an FYI... The Melling oil pumps do not work with a double roller timing chain on a LS1 blocks and front cover... The Melling pump is thicker and it hits the timing cover when you space out the oil pump for the double row crank sprocket... I haven'r tried it yet with a LS2 block but I don't see why it should not have the same problem...
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Originally Posted by jsworkstd
I'd like to see some facts of how many LS7 block's liners have failed?
Were they N/A or high boost?
Were they N/A or high boost?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...cracked+sleeve
Last edited by 11 Bravo; 06-30-2006 at 10:34 AM.