387 all bore, LS7 top end
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387 all bore, LS7 top end
Thinking about building a 387. Stock LS2 crank, 4.125 dry sleeve LS2 case with ported LS7 heads. Haven't seen this combo before with those heads. Oil consumption shouldn't be a worry. Any guesses as to how high in the rpm range it would make power with a streetable hydraulic cam and would stock rods with ARP's be up to the task?
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why would you spend that kind of money on the sleeves, top end, etc., and want to use stock rods. i considered these dimensions for my setup, 11.6:1 solid roller. with the cam and my heads, it would make peak power around 7800 and would rev to 8500-8800, and i have a moderately lite weight setup.
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Originally Posted by BryanJohnson
why would you spend that kind of money on the sleeves, top end, etc., and want to use stock rods.
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Originally Posted by Mr.MartyStone
I think you'd be fine with the stock rods as long as you have the upgraded bolts. I wouldn't know where it would peak or make power to unless you give us your cam specs and let us know what intake you're going to use.
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if your trying to keep the cost down a motor like your talking about probably is not the way to go. it will make its best power way up top and you will have to spend a lot of money to keep it together that high.
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Originally Posted by deathtrap
if your trying to keep the cost down a motor like your talking about probably is not the way to go. it will make its best power way up top and you will have to spend a lot of money to keep it together that high.
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Originally Posted by dmart
Is the wet sump up to the task of 8000~ rpms? (I'm seriously wondering )
of course it is.
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
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The T56 rebuilds car is wet sump and spins 8800+ rpms. They are changing over to a dry sump system shortly though.
Originally Posted by Six Speeds Inc.
I have had good luck with my Melling oil pump and Moroso oil pan windage tray and pickup. I am switching to dry sump on my new build because I am going to turn the next beast to 9000rpms. The 402 liked to be turned lots of rpms. I have had very good luck with my Beck manifold, but I do know that Patterson racing uses a lot of the Wilson stuff. I would like to see a A to B comparo between a Wilson manifold and a Beck manifold.
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Originally Posted by BryanJohnson
of course it is.
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
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Originally Posted by BryanJohnson
of course it is.
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
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Actually this is really close to the motor that showed up in the 2004 Pontiac GTO Ram Air 6
http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/to...-Ram-Air-6.htm
GM's team used a LS7 block (4.25 bore) along with a 3.62" crank to make a LS7 389.
What I'm unsure of is if the 575hp rating was crank or rear wheel (probably crank hp)...
I've been thinking about a similar motor for my gto as 389 was the GTO's 6.5L moniker.
Actually I've thought about making a 389 from a L92 block and using a 3.75" crank (would call for custom crank, and pistons though).
Good luck with your 387 it should be a nice powerplant.
http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/to...-Ram-Air-6.htm
GM's team used a LS7 block (4.25 bore) along with a 3.62" crank to make a LS7 389.
What I'm unsure of is if the 575hp rating was crank or rear wheel (probably crank hp)...
I've been thinking about a similar motor for my gto as 389 was the GTO's 6.5L moniker.
Actually I've thought about making a 389 from a L92 block and using a 3.75" crank (would call for custom crank, and pistons though).
Good luck with your 387 it should be a nice powerplant.
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Originally Posted by BryanJohnson
of course it is.
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
also manley rods are the way to go imo. there is a machine/engine shop in ft worth(does lots of nascar/pro stock work) that did a test on them. spun the engine to 11000 rpm, disassembled it, wiped the blue color off them, weighed and measured them and they were perfect. if you want more info, just pm me
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Originally Posted by Bring the Noise
Actually this is really close to the motor that showed up in the 2004 Pontiac GTO Ram Air 6
http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/to...-Ram-Air-6.htm
GM's team used a LS7 block (4.25 bore) along with a 3.62" crank to make a LS7 389.
What I'm unsure of is if the 575hp rating was crank or rear wheel (probably crank hp)...
http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/to...-Ram-Air-6.htm
GM's team used a LS7 block (4.25 bore) along with a 3.62" crank to make a LS7 389.
What I'm unsure of is if the 575hp rating was crank or rear wheel (probably crank hp)...