View Poll Results: build or buy
bulid it..
30
36.59%
just buy it
52
63.41%
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build a 408 or buy one?
Thread Starter
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From: Tullahoma,Tn
build a 408 or buy one? the deal I was working on feel threw on a 408 I wanted so now is back to the drawing board...should I just buy one from a sponsor or just start picking up parts and build one? I sold my motor to buy this other one so I need one back in somewhat soon.
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
have a reputable shop with great customer service like BRYAN of LME, build you a stout 408 iron (or alum LS2) motor for whatever your application is going to be. BRYAN/LME's builds a bad azz motor for a great price, can probably get this done within 2 weeks for you as they most likely have all the parts in stock as this is one of their most common builds, and their customer service ROCKS.
Tell them I said HELLO!
Tell them I said HELLO!
i just saved the time and trouble and just got a tsp shortblock and had my local machinist longblock it for me since i got the heads and a few other things somewhere else.if you add it all up getting one done built isn't all that much more and it is a heck of alot easier just to drop it in the car instead of waiting on the block to get bored out, cam bearings put in,yada,yada,yada. just my $.02
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From: Elmhurst, IL (Chicago Suburb)
Originally Posted by slow trap
i just saved the time and trouble and just got a tsp shortblock and had my local machinist longblock it for me since i got the heads and a few other things somewhere else.if you add it all up getting one done built isn't all that much more and it is a heck of alot easier just to drop it in the car instead of waiting on the block to get bored out, cam bearings put in,yada,yada,yada. just my $.02
Build it! That way you can put exactly what you want in it. Plus you get to say you built it yourself like a real hot-rodder instead of bought it like a mommy's boy.
Okay the last part was just teasing. Don't get sand in your vaginas guys.
Okay the last part was just teasing. Don't get sand in your vaginas guys.
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First, do you have a machine shop in town? Second, do you know how to build the engine (e.g., what tolerances) or have experience building one? And third, do you have the tools already to assist in the build.
If you said yes to all those, build it. If you didn't, you're potentially not saving any money if you have to ship the block out to be machined, have to pay for repairs if you screw it up due to improper tolerances, or have to stock your garage with tools to assemble it.
I'd just buy it. You're not saving a ton of money and most good shops will put exactly what you want in there anyway. I buy shortblocks, check them out and then assemble the longblock. That's enough pride of ownership for me.
If you said yes to all those, build it. If you didn't, you're potentially not saving any money if you have to ship the block out to be machined, have to pay for repairs if you screw it up due to improper tolerances, or have to stock your garage with tools to assemble it.
I'd just buy it. You're not saving a ton of money and most good shops will put exactly what you want in there anyway. I buy shortblocks, check them out and then assemble the longblock. That's enough pride of ownership for me.
Originally Posted by 30th t/a
good thread.
where would I be able to find the required parts for a LS2 402?
where would I be able to find the required parts for a LS2 402?
I don't see this thread will help out much since there is many going different ways on this. I can see building it so you can say "I built it," but I can see why someone would buy it since the shortblock is pre-assembled.
You can put in much better parts if building yourself, on a dollar per dollar basis. Heck, for what I'll have in mine, I only would've had Mahle pistons and Scat rods if buying from a vendor.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Joburg, South Africa
Learnt the hard way If the eng works prepares your short block the right way, it is far better. Many do not as cost depicts the amount of effort they will put in. Starting with both internal and external balancing, the whole assembly must be installed with the correct clearances. What is correct depends if you want a tight lasting engine or a loose howler. Piston to bore clearances, ring gaps, ring type, main bearing, big end bearing and even gudgeon pin clearances will also be an issue. The most important power producing spec must also be determined and that is deck clearance. i.e. how far the pistons are from the top of the block. 30 thou piston-to-head clearance (with the head gasket installed) usually gives the best squish and clean burning. How many eng works will do a trial assembly then deck your block? Again depends what you want the engine for.
I personally don't trust manufacturers sizes. The cosequential damage if something goes wrong is too expensive to fix. I always say that paying a bit more for insurance of good engineering far ourweighs guessing and praying for power.
I personally don't trust manufacturers sizes. The cosequential damage if something goes wrong is too expensive to fix. I always say that paying a bit more for insurance of good engineering far ourweighs guessing and praying for power.