LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Hi..

I was going to re use my oil pan from my old LS1 with 90,000 miles on my brand new 402 that I am building, But I read a few horror stories about ppl blowing thier motors, while road racing.. and issues were based on oiling and oil pans seemed to be some of the reasons... I will be re using a posted LS6 oil pump, that has only 150 or so miles on it.. Im sure that is still good to use...

and Since I have road raced and plan on road racing my 402, M6, Z28, when Im done. Id like to be recommended an oil pan...

Its for a daily driver, Z28, M6, 402 with a cam in the 238/244, .613 lift 113 + 2 LSA, with 5.3 stage 2.5 heads, just a mild motor, that will probably make around 480rwhp.., but it will be road raced a few times a year( I d say 3 - 4 full days, the whole year)... It Also WILL be drag raced probably an average of 8 - 10 passes a month... and driven probably an average of 40 - 50 miles per day...

Can I run a wet sump and feel safe, or do you guys recommend a dry sump...

reason I would rather go with a wet sump (if possible), is because I know Id have to use more oil in a dry sump as well as it costing more for a dry sump... and Im not trying to cheap out on oil ,but I change my oil very often and if Im running 6 qts in a wet sump and change it every 1500 - 2000 miles, how much oil am I putting in the dry sump?

Also remember, Id like something that will be suitable for a Daily driver, while me not worrying when I road race it, as well as it being a good oilpan for drag racing.. Is there a good all around pan??

thanks

See5

iTrader: (53)

Your current pan and an Accusump will provide what you want and it is ~cheap and easy.

427

iTrader: (3)

The factory LS7 oiling system is a nice option if you have not built the engine yet.


Kurt

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I have not built the engine yet, how good is the LS7 oiling system... what does it consist of? Oil pump? pan? etc..

Also what is an accusump?
If I am using my stocker LS1 90k mile pan, what is the accsump part? I dont comprehend... Ive put together my old LS1 and dont know what part you are talking about... sorry for the ignorance, or maybe im just tired..

See5

iTrader: (53)

http://www.accusump.com/

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/961640-windage-tray-clearance-stroker.html

crap! Am I gonna run ito issues with my 402??

why dont people tell us this, I asked if everything will bolt up and they told me it will... except the knock sensors and something else on the bloc..

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Thank ye

AU N EGL

I run a 3qt accusump WITH oil cooler.

a great dry sump is a lot of money. Maybe you can afford an $8 -10K dry sump system

The LS7 damp sump is OK, Will be much better with the new GM or LPE tank

LS7s were having oil issues under VERY HARD braking. Oil was staying up in the heads.


A few other things to think about for a road race engine

Valve lift. We tend to keep them under .600 lift for engine and spring life. when you running 20 to 45 mins at a time from 3000 to 6500, 6900 rpms, high valve lift take quite a beating.

I run 224/224 581/581 112 on my LS6 and I can out accelerate larger cammed or bigger cube motors out of corners and up to 130 mph. By the time they catch me, I am deep into the next braking zone and around the corner, GONE.

Remember road racing is short straights and lots of corners. Only occationaly do you have long straight over 1/2 mile in length. So immediate throttle response and lots of low end torque is what you want to look for in a build.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Thanks..

The thing is it will see road racing maybe 3 - 4 times a year... I dont think Ive gone longer than 30 min, when road racing... Ive probably made a few laps (20 - 25 min) and waited 30 min..

But Its #1 use is a daily driver car, and drag raced id say 10 - 12 passes per month...

I did go with a pretty mild cam setup. I wanted low lift.. But it was still .613 lift... not under .600...

edit:

Oh and, It should have a decent all around power band, before I was speced out with this cam, I made that clear... Im also going with small heads on the 402, so thatll help with the lower RPMs and choke my peak HP #s instead....


what gear ratio do you use? I have 3.73s...


trying to have an all purpose car, kind of sucks, because Im afraid I wont make it in the 10s with 3.73s, and need 4.10s... but I also am thinking 4.10s will be too much gear for road racing.. Ill have to shift on corners a lot more..

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

The stock LS1 Fbody pan will work; however I would overfill it by 1 quart over stock. The Accusump is great extra insurance for keeping the oil where it is supposed to be.

3:73's would be your best bet IMO on a road course and a 402 with the additional torque it presents to maintain traction. An LS2 requires different specific LS2 front/rear covers/some wiring; however the LS1 oil pan will bolt up as well as many other parts.

Your Camaro should rip! That cam you have should be fine considering the cubes. I assume you have a FAST 90/90 intake setup as well?

If you are reusing your rocker arms have Harland Sharp rebuild them with upgraded Timken bearings to prevent any issues/failures. I hope you have upgraded brakes.... you are going to need them

OKcruising

How many lateral g's do you envision? How much is extended time @ high lateral acceleration a concern?
Extremophiles:
A proper dry sump system is neither cheap nor straight plug and chug. You can get a twin turbo kit for less than an aftermarket dry sump install. Plumbing ain't cheap, nor labor and time.

Ultra conservative yet budget minded:
The LS7 system has some shortcomings, namely the oil pan (ARE has solved it, and I highly recommend them). And it's a single-ish stage ?? But works quite well so far with that ARE pan.

Cost Effective:
The Accusump system is pretty damn cost effective if your not a rabid track rat.

However, I must caution, there have been numerous cases of oiling issues leading to bearing failures on cars seeing lateral acceleration loads beyond GM's vision.

I haven't had a chance to fully explore the capabilities of my system on the car and double check a whole list of things yet; ran out of time and some other things are now at the forefront of replacement/worry

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

I am using Harland sharp rockers actually. I was using YT ultralites before...

I dont have my FAST 92/92 setup yetIm gonna break it in with Ls6 manifold, then get a better intake...I may just go vic jr setup, I havent decided yet...

Also, when fill oil I put 5.9 - 6 qt, despiteit saying to put 5.5 qts..

and when I road race I fill about 6.5 - 6.5+ qts, never reaching 7 qt though...

Yeah I think Im going to purchase this accusump...

Lastly I have hawk or EBC redstuff pads I usually run as a DD, they work great... on stock solid rotors

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Its not a hardcore track car, just a few track meets a year... I probably go a max of 5 - 6 laps per cool off session... I turn pretty hard, but dunno what Gs its pulling..

I mean I am almost riding the car to the max, on konis SA, strano springs and strano sway bars.. Nitto 5555rs or Nitto Nt01s, not slicks, but I may get some slicks one day.. also Imma change my TA, because the short one is causing me to wheel hop..

but back to the subject.. My oiling with a stock LS1 pan, filled to 6.5 qt and an accusump should be decent Id say.. Oh and does anyone make a more accurate oil pressure gauge? or oil temp gauge? I may install one..

thanks

as we speak now I just cleaned my oil pan and removed the 2 studs with a drill, I cleaned the pan in solvent and oil pump and pickup tube as well with solvent...

I need to obtain a new windage tray. :-/

edit:
But as you mentioned if I am putting myself at risk I may potentially get a LS7 pan in the future, before I take it road racing... But for now ( as in tomorrow) Im gonna install the LS1 pan and later on put in the accusump..

OKcruising

With your setup, even with stickies, you'll be plenty fine with Accusump I imagine

AU N EGL

I use a 3.42. Looked into a 3.73 but decided against that. However it would also depend on your gear ratio. I run an MN6

some ppl use 3.90s or 4.10s I think it to compensate for a poor cam choice that has NO LOW end TORQUE so they have to use gears for higher RPM HP even at slower speeds. Each shift UP or DOWN is 1/4 Sec off your lap times. The less shifting the better.

3.90s and 4.10s just dont make it for most road courses unless required by rules, SWGT requires vettes to use 3.90s or 4.10s

Most road race course in corvettes are 3rd and 4th gears when lapping. Occasional 2nd gear for traffic in a corner or a very tight corner.


an "ALL purpose" car is just not possible. Unless you keep it bone stock and make do with what you have.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

An all purpose car is possible, but I dont think you can ever get the best of all worlds, However, you can get close... Id keep my car a Best of Road racing/DD car, and keep my swaybar on, but when I go to drag Ill still be Fast, just not as fast as I could be, if I was a drag only setup...


My M6 with 3.73s feels alright... But I dont wanna go higher.. 3.42s is excellent, but when going with a mild cam, for a daily driver 3.42 can be used, but 3.73s still would move it a bit better and you still dont sacrifice a lot of top speed loss.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

So far, Ive installed my oil pan and new windage tray. I used 2 washers and hammered in parts that were making contact with the stroker crank... and I used nuts to tighten the studs with red loctite...

Im just stating this, so i anyone has any word of advice that this is wrong, that theyll tell me...

AU N EGL

You will have some great gitty-up. Most cars never hit top end end anyway.

1QWIKBIRD

iTrader: (25)

If its not too late check this oil pan baffle out....

http://www.improvedracing.com


Maybe this inside the stock F-body pan combined with the accusump you plan would be plenty.......Simple is good.

Chris

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Does this actually work?