1966 C10 LS Swap (If I can get the thing built)
Did you check the deck hgt?
"By the time it got to TDC I was in negative clearance land (valve smacking the piston). Also watched the dial indicator and noticed instead of the .575" advertised lift, only reached .405"
I'd suggest sorting this out b4 you start cutting/changing things.
Sumting wong.
Put the push rods in for one cyl and leave the rockers off. Rotate the engine through 2 full revolutions. As that piston passes through TDC, on one of the 2 revolutions, you should see the exh PR retract to its "rest" position, and the int one just start to move upwards. The other instance of TDC of course is firing, and no PRs should be moving anywhere near that time.
The exh valve should start to open as the piston passes through BDC, then reach full open as the piston reaches about halfway up the bore, then close as described above as the piston reaches TDC. Likewise, the int should begin opening just as the piston passes through TDC, reach full open as it descends through the int stroke to about halfway down, start to close, and close fully shortly after the piston passes through BDC. The valves on a cam that small shouldn't be open more than a few .001"s at TDC.
In case you can't tell, it sounds to me like the cam is WWWWWAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYY out of time with the crank; maybe using some wrong mark on one of the sprockets or something like that. I'm directing you how to verify that the cam timing is at least somewhat close to correct. In fact, if you bring the crank to #1 TDC, and rotate the cam by hand to where the valves are just "changing over" as described, then install the timing set, I'll bet you'll discover some marks on the sprockets that align, that are different from whatever you've been using.










