Heat soaked maf/iat sensor
 

Has anyone tried this on a GXP or Monte?

http://kb.ls1gto.com/KB/article.aspx?id=10279

I did it on my GTO and it worked fantastic. I did some logging with hp tuners on the gxp the last few days and the iat is ridiculous on these cars. A few lights and we are talking major heat and of course a little knock at wot.


Does anyone see a problem with the connectors?

no need to go through all that.. pulling pins and cutting plastic...


here is the correct one for our cars...

http://www.vectormotorsports.com/ind...mart&Itemid=28



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Availability

This product is temporarily out of stock. Per the web site. I tried to order a couple of days ago. Saving thirty bucks is not the big of a deal but they need to keep at least a few on hand.

Save your money,

Got to your dealership and order a IAT sensor and connector from a 98-02 F-body. Others may work, but this one was an easy find. I get an employee discount, but in total I paid less than $40. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm just going to cut the two IAT circuits going to the MAF and connect the f-body connector to them. Then I'm gonna drill a hole in my air box near the inlet and pop the fbody IAT sensor it.

Same thing, but a little DIY saves you $60.

I know all to well how much power/fuel economy is lost with high IAT readings. We put a Kenne Bell 1.7L non-intercooled supercharger on my girlfriend's '02 Mustang GT last fall. The thing is a rocket when cold, but drive it for about 15 mins to get the IATs hot, and its tuned to pull 8* of timing. Its such a dog for a blower car. I'm in the works of intercooling it which will keep low IATs all the time and keep the timing in.

Granted it wont be as noticeable on our NA LS4's, but every little bit counts. Especially when your IAT sensor is reading hotter than the IAT really is.

I'm not sure about the fbody thermistor but I do know the $15 thermistor (omega 44005) might come close. I could go to auto zone and pick up a cheap iat sensor pop out the unknown thermistor and swap in the omega 44005. About forty bucks also.
I'm leary of the fbody thermistor output matching our stock thermistor. ? I'm gambling the 44005 will be close since it works so well in the gto. Its a $15 dollar gamble.

I do notice that there are two HSRK from Vector, not one. I assume they are different some how.

I was amazed how heat soaking the maf effects the car.

one was their initial LS4 version which was replaced by the GM version... the correct one is the one I linked to above...

if you go to the other one, you'll notice that it says it was replaced by this newer GM version...

I went ahead and purchased the omega thermistor 44005 and the sensor capteur (part number 779-19036. Total investment w shipping $33. I ordered the omega thermistor online and picked up the sensor capteur at advanced auto. I took the MAF sensor off.
Located the thermistor inside and found its wires feeding the thermistor on the outside.
Stripped, soldered new longer electrical 12 volt wire. You replace the sensors thermistor with the new omega thermistor. Its a little tricky unless your a surgeon by trade. Just follow this procedure.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=44005

I put my new sensor next to the fender well intake. Hooked up hp tuners and did a log.
No more heat soak or 140F inlet reading for me. I was worried the omega 44005 would be the incorrect thermistor but it read within 1F of the ambient when on the interstate at 75mph. Its a great cheap mod for a gto and it appears so far to work here also.
Bang for the buck, one of the best mods out there. I need to isolate the intake completely from engine bay heat and wrap the intake for grins.
When I stop the car going north the iat jumps up from 80F at cruise to 110F in a couple of minutes. I have not isolated the intake from the engine bay heat by plugging all the holes. Wind from south and blowing all the heat toward front of car.

Has anyone tried just wrapping the IAT sensor from the outside with radiant heat tape? They sell this shit for like, 15 bucks and it claims to reflect away 450 degrees? I'm not sure on these claims I'm just saying wouldn't that be a little easier then drilling holes for the grommet?

because our stock IAT sensor is in the MAF housing, I had tried wrapping the MAF housing with heat wrap a couple years ago... didn't work...

while it did take longer for the IAT temps to go up, it also took a lot longer for it to cool back down since the wrap was holding the heat IN as well...

so, I just removed the wrap...

Huh, guess I never thought of that haha. Back to the drawing board.

stiull think the way to do this for guys with the CAI kit especially is get a longer silicone intake and physically move the MAF into the airbox to keep it cool and protected from the heat! after all it is how they keep the ECU cool.

im going to buy a silicone 90 and see if i can make it work i figure with the TBS it should be pretty simple and let me keep the IAT down so my intake and cutout and soon ported intake will be used as well as they can be

FYI, I finally got around to installing the sensor a couple days ago. The difference is noticeable. I didn't even move the sensor that far. Its epoxied into the top half of the air box, right under the tubular core support brace. When you are sitting in traffic and get the car real hot, the power increase is very noticeable. It feels just as fast as it does when the engine is cold. So the mod works, no noticeable power loss with heat!

Here you go guys... It's alot cheaper than the Vector one and is the same thing. You just have to get a grommet at the parts store.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1137

http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=964

It costs $52.00 for both and that includes the shipping. You can thank me later. ;) lol...

-Mike