I am new - and i have been on other Forums
11-24-2010, 11:20 AM
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I am new - and i have been on other Forums Someone on another forum recommended this forum to me. I asked a question on a couple other forums - but this one looks like more folks with the same common intrest - GP GXP (2007). Already i like what i see on this forum.
I am currently overseas and have to speak this issue through my son.
My GXP:
He tells me that on the way home from a six hour trip the engine light came on - they pulled over and took it to a garage. After the engine cooled off the mechanic told them it was safe to drive the remaining 45 minutes. They did at a reduced speed - but they noticed what they described as a "trans slip". They would put their hand on the consoled shifter and applied pressure forward and it seemed to help. They got home parked it and about a week later the battery was dead. 5 months pass. I asked my son to crank it and see how it ran. He said that once he did had it running, he then put it in gear - it made a terrible noise from the tranny. He decided to turn it off. He checked the trans fluid and it was "like new"...and at proper level. Then left the engine run for 20 minutes. Turned it off and tried to restart after 40 minutes and the battery was dead. I had placed a OPTIMA battery ($170) a month before I deployed - it should be strong -It has a brand new alternator.
I will take the car to a mechanic - just mot sure who.
I know very little about a transmission - I love cars and besides installing a CAI and a short throw shifter on my Mustang GT...that is my mechanical capability. (I saw some rivelary about Mustangs - my sons car - i am a Pontiac Guy - be kind)
I am hoping that you experts can help me prepare to discuss my problem with a mechanic / chose one.
1- A friend mentioned that if a battery is dead then it can cause problems with a external transmission "module???. Is this true?
2- What is a reasonable cost of a total rebuild for this transmission?
3- I was told that if a total rebuild is required it might be better to get a different model transmission? I am willing to pay a little more for better performance / reliability. But I want all my electronics to work and the car has paddle shifters on the steering wheel.
4- Should I ask the mechanic what kind of diagnostic equipment he has? Is there a type that is best?
5 - I live in a very rural area...i will use a local mechanic to fix - is this a OK? Or should I try to take to a GM shop - towing bill will be expensive.
6- Thanks for any other information that you think would be of help!
I live in LaGrange GA between ATlanta and Columbus GA - does anyone know a tranny shop that will build a like "Triple Edge Performance" it sounds like i need a high performance tranny. I like what i see - but it is so far away...do people frieght tranys back and forth - is that expensive? Is it a good idea to have someone not familar with that aftermarket tranny to install it?
That tranny comes with options which are most important...i drive fast - but i dont race...i want a reliable - long lasting tough tranny
thanks HarryO
I am currently overseas and have to speak this issue through my son.
My GXP:
He tells me that on the way home from a six hour trip the engine light came on - they pulled over and took it to a garage. After the engine cooled off the mechanic told them it was safe to drive the remaining 45 minutes. They did at a reduced speed - but they noticed what they described as a "trans slip". They would put their hand on the consoled shifter and applied pressure forward and it seemed to help. They got home parked it and about a week later the battery was dead. 5 months pass. I asked my son to crank it and see how it ran. He said that once he did had it running, he then put it in gear - it made a terrible noise from the tranny. He decided to turn it off. He checked the trans fluid and it was "like new"...and at proper level. Then left the engine run for 20 minutes. Turned it off and tried to restart after 40 minutes and the battery was dead. I had placed a OPTIMA battery ($170) a month before I deployed - it should be strong -It has a brand new alternator.
I will take the car to a mechanic - just mot sure who.
I know very little about a transmission - I love cars and besides installing a CAI and a short throw shifter on my Mustang GT...that is my mechanical capability. (I saw some rivelary about Mustangs - my sons car - i am a Pontiac Guy - be kind)
I am hoping that you experts can help me prepare to discuss my problem with a mechanic / chose one.
1- A friend mentioned that if a battery is dead then it can cause problems with a external transmission "module???. Is this true?
2- What is a reasonable cost of a total rebuild for this transmission?
3- I was told that if a total rebuild is required it might be better to get a different model transmission? I am willing to pay a little more for better performance / reliability. But I want all my electronics to work and the car has paddle shifters on the steering wheel.
4- Should I ask the mechanic what kind of diagnostic equipment he has? Is there a type that is best?
5 - I live in a very rural area...i will use a local mechanic to fix - is this a OK? Or should I try to take to a GM shop - towing bill will be expensive.
6- Thanks for any other information that you think would be of help!
I live in LaGrange GA between ATlanta and Columbus GA - does anyone know a tranny shop that will build a like "Triple Edge Performance" it sounds like i need a high performance tranny. I like what i see - but it is so far away...do people frieght tranys back and forth - is that expensive? Is it a good idea to have someone not familar with that aftermarket tranny to install it?
That tranny comes with options which are most important...i drive fast - but i dont race...i want a reliable - long lasting tough tranny
thanks HarryO
Last edited by HarryO45; 11-24-2010 at 11:24 AM. Reason: accuracy
11-24-2010, 12:14 PM
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It sounds like you have a couple of issues, and they may or may not be related.
First off, try get your hands on an OBD2 code scanner. You may be able to borrow one from an auto parts store or even buy one for under $50. Since your engine light came on, there should be a code stored in the PCM that should give you indication of what COULD be going on. It might be a trans-related code, but then, it could be something else, so this is the obvious place to start troubleshooting.
Now, our cars have notoriously unreliable transmissions. Our motors make a lot of torque, and GM did not do much to sufficiently upgrade the transmission to handle it. A particular weak point is the torque converter clutch (TCC), which is known to fail due to an overpressure condition inside the transmission. When the converter clutch fails, it bascially disintegrates, with resulting material circulating through the transmission, wiping out the clutches and causing premature wear on hard parts. Pulling the dipstick may not reveal this condition, so you'll have to drop the trans pan and see if you have metal shavings and material in it.
I'm guessing this is what has happened, and that noise you're hearing is the converter. The slipping that you're experiencing is probably the clutches failing due to the TCC material that has contaminated the fluid. I don't think putting any pressure on the shifter has anything to do with it, as an automatic is either in gear or it isn't.
No matter what, it sounds like the trans needs to come out. As for the replacement, GM will charge about $1500 (parts only) for a remanfactured transmission. I would stay away from them as they're junk. Many of us have been down that route, but if you're still under warranty (and you should be if you have under 100k miles on the car), this is what you'll get. Not sure what a brand new 4T65-HD costs, but even then, you'll still have a ticking timebomb, because it has the same weaknesses as your current trans. You mentioned Triple Edge Performance, and I absolutely recommend his services. Dave @ TEP offers an improved transmission that addresses most of the shortcomings of the stock unit. That trans, I think, is about $1650 plus shipping. He'll ship it via freight and I can't imagine it costing more than $100, since he's in Indiana and you're in Georgia. I'd give him a call and discuss your issue.
As for the battery, are the cables tight? If so, I would take it in an get it tested, again, most auto parts stores will do this for free. If it tests out okay, you'll need to revisit the alternator to see if you're getting the 13-14 volts that it should be putting out.
Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions!
First off, try get your hands on an OBD2 code scanner. You may be able to borrow one from an auto parts store or even buy one for under $50. Since your engine light came on, there should be a code stored in the PCM that should give you indication of what COULD be going on. It might be a trans-related code, but then, it could be something else, so this is the obvious place to start troubleshooting.
Now, our cars have notoriously unreliable transmissions. Our motors make a lot of torque, and GM did not do much to sufficiently upgrade the transmission to handle it. A particular weak point is the torque converter clutch (TCC), which is known to fail due to an overpressure condition inside the transmission. When the converter clutch fails, it bascially disintegrates, with resulting material circulating through the transmission, wiping out the clutches and causing premature wear on hard parts. Pulling the dipstick may not reveal this condition, so you'll have to drop the trans pan and see if you have metal shavings and material in it.
I'm guessing this is what has happened, and that noise you're hearing is the converter. The slipping that you're experiencing is probably the clutches failing due to the TCC material that has contaminated the fluid. I don't think putting any pressure on the shifter has anything to do with it, as an automatic is either in gear or it isn't.
No matter what, it sounds like the trans needs to come out. As for the replacement, GM will charge about $1500 (parts only) for a remanfactured transmission. I would stay away from them as they're junk. Many of us have been down that route, but if you're still under warranty (and you should be if you have under 100k miles on the car), this is what you'll get. Not sure what a brand new 4T65-HD costs, but even then, you'll still have a ticking timebomb, because it has the same weaknesses as your current trans. You mentioned Triple Edge Performance, and I absolutely recommend his services. Dave @ TEP offers an improved transmission that addresses most of the shortcomings of the stock unit. That trans, I think, is about $1650 plus shipping. He'll ship it via freight and I can't imagine it costing more than $100, since he's in Indiana and you're in Georgia. I'd give him a call and discuss your issue.
As for the battery, are the cables tight? If so, I would take it in an get it tested, again, most auto parts stores will do this for free. If it tests out okay, you'll need to revisit the alternator to see if you're getting the 13-14 volts that it should be putting out.
Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions!
11-24-2010, 12:43 PM
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If you are going to leave any battery sit in a car, you need a battery tender. Some things in the car never fully turn off (otherwise your key fob would never work). Once you drain a battery to the point that the open circuit voltage is much below 10V, it's a crap shoot whether or not it will return to full strength. I've recovered batteries that were drained to about 4V and lost others at 9V (by the way, there is very little difference in stored energy between 4V and 9V).
A battery that is so dead that the alternator can't keep the system voltage up will show symptoms all over the place. Remove it, charge it up, then let it sit a day and check the voltage with a meter. Anything less then 12.5V is a sign of a weak battery, and anything less than 12V means real trouble. I always try the most simple solution first. If it checks out fine but then drains below 12V if you leave it in the car, you have another issue altogether.
Pushing on the shifter probably just helped them brace their body and keep the throttle steadier; it's got nothing to do with the transmission slipping or not. That lever is either in gear or not in gear without any in between.
No one has put anything other than a 4T65E-HD into an LS4 car yet, so unless you want to be the first to take on all of the custom work I would stick with a rebuild.
TEP, Intense, etc. all offer rebuild kits and parts that you can buy and have your local guy use. They will also take your transmission freight and rebuild it for you, then ship it back. I believe TEP can get it rebuilt for $1600 + ~$400 depending on how much freight costs and removal/install costs. You have the Volvo valve body. There is more information here, including useful troubleshooting and diagnostic information:
http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/
A battery that is so dead that the alternator can't keep the system voltage up will show symptoms all over the place. Remove it, charge it up, then let it sit a day and check the voltage with a meter. Anything less then 12.5V is a sign of a weak battery, and anything less than 12V means real trouble. I always try the most simple solution first. If it checks out fine but then drains below 12V if you leave it in the car, you have another issue altogether.
Pushing on the shifter probably just helped them brace their body and keep the throttle steadier; it's got nothing to do with the transmission slipping or not. That lever is either in gear or not in gear without any in between.
No one has put anything other than a 4T65E-HD into an LS4 car yet, so unless you want to be the first to take on all of the custom work I would stick with a rebuild.
TEP, Intense, etc. all offer rebuild kits and parts that you can buy and have your local guy use. They will also take your transmission freight and rebuild it for you, then ship it back. I believe TEP can get it rebuilt for $1600 + ~$400 depending on how much freight costs and removal/install costs. You have the Volvo valve body. There is more information here, including useful troubleshooting and diagnostic information:
http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/
