LS1/LS2/LS6 intake swap Sticky!!!
08-17-2011, 09:41 PM
#64
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Does anyone know how far the map sensor has to protrude into the intake if at all?
If modified (shortened) do you think the orignal map sensor location on the ls1 intake could work? I know its tight but it would be nice to use the factory ostler mount.
Looking at the fuel line yesterday, I'm trying to figure out how you moved ditto the rear. Did you just straighten out the hard line? Or am I just missing what was actually done?
If modified (shortened) do you think the orignal map sensor location on the ls1 intake could work? I know its tight but it would be nice to use the factory ostler mount.
Looking at the fuel line yesterday, I'm trying to figure out how you moved ditto the rear. Did you just straighten out the hard line? Or am I just missing what was actually done?
Last edited by Dom87SS; 08-18-2011 at 09:22 AM.
08-21-2011, 05:09 PM
#65
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So the parts i was working on are just about completed. I don't know if any of this will actually work, but i wont know till i try it.
this is a LS4 TB to LS1 intake adapter. I made the interior wall with a smooth loft from the TB bore to the intake bore. It is also, as you can see, on a slight angle from the intake face. I did this to help remove sharper bends usually associated with ribbed tubing or molded adapter parts used to make a CAI. I should be able to adapt the MAF directly to TB with a small piece of a silicone coupler and 2 clamps. I also built in a stock style barb fitting so there is no need to drill and tap for the brake booster line.
this is a EGR block off/MAP sensor adapter. The idea is to have the block off fit snugly in the EGR hole and utilizes stock location bolt to hold it down in place in a counter bore. The center of the EGR plug has a hole large enough to draw the reading for the MAP sensor. The original MAP sensor should be able to clip on to this part as it would originally on the stock intake with no wiring harness extension. It will also use a LS4 TB gasket on the adapter.
This is a intake spacer and it should be able to be placed between the intake and head. The idea here is that it will allow you to bolt a LS1/6 intake onto the head without having to sand the bottom of the intake down to clear the valley tray. It uses a LS1 O-Ring gasket per cylinder to seal it up to the head. It will still need the gaskets on the intake side as to seal to the spacer. These will also allow for a little more room between the TB and the exhaust crossover pipe. It will add a little length to the intake runner, which as of now i dont know how or if it will effect performance. But generally a longer run will allow for more power at higher RPMS's, but a loss of torque on the lower side.
So that is what im working on now. I hope to have the first run prototypes done in the next week or so. Im sure there are adjustments that are needed, but wont know till the parts are in my hands and i can bolt them up.
this is a LS4 TB to LS1 intake adapter. I made the interior wall with a smooth loft from the TB bore to the intake bore. It is also, as you can see, on a slight angle from the intake face. I did this to help remove sharper bends usually associated with ribbed tubing or molded adapter parts used to make a CAI. I should be able to adapt the MAF directly to TB with a small piece of a silicone coupler and 2 clamps. I also built in a stock style barb fitting so there is no need to drill and tap for the brake booster line.
this is a EGR block off/MAP sensor adapter. The idea is to have the block off fit snugly in the EGR hole and utilizes stock location bolt to hold it down in place in a counter bore. The center of the EGR plug has a hole large enough to draw the reading for the MAP sensor. The original MAP sensor should be able to clip on to this part as it would originally on the stock intake with no wiring harness extension. It will also use a LS4 TB gasket on the adapter.
This is a intake spacer and it should be able to be placed between the intake and head. The idea here is that it will allow you to bolt a LS1/6 intake onto the head without having to sand the bottom of the intake down to clear the valley tray. It uses a LS1 O-Ring gasket per cylinder to seal it up to the head. It will still need the gaskets on the intake side as to seal to the spacer. These will also allow for a little more room between the TB and the exhaust crossover pipe. It will add a little length to the intake runner, which as of now i dont know how or if it will effect performance. But generally a longer run will allow for more power at higher RPMS's, but a loss of torque on the lower side.
So that is what im working on now. I hope to have the first run prototypes done in the next week or so. Im sure there are adjustments that are needed, but wont know till the parts are in my hands and i can bolt them up.
08-22-2011, 02:53 PM
#66
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Everything is looking good Dom. Keep the ideas comming.
The intake spacers won't work though, due to the angles spacing the intake up. This will cause intake port misalignment.
I like the idea of having the MAP sensor in the rear of the manifold. This is a high vacuum area and the Map sits flush. It is a pain lining the map up and drilling holes though.. So you are on to something. Your idea should work, but the intake neck is not really balanced air. I would think the map should be behind the intake neck and away from the TB.
Your TB adater looks promising. I am looking forward to your install.
The intake spacers won't work though, due to the angles spacing the intake up. This will cause intake port misalignment.
I like the idea of having the MAP sensor in the rear of the manifold. This is a high vacuum area and the Map sits flush. It is a pain lining the map up and drilling holes though.. So you are on to something. Your idea should work, but the intake neck is not really balanced air. I would think the map should be behind the intake neck and away from the TB.
Your TB adater looks promising. I am looking forward to your install.
08-22-2011, 03:09 PM
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the only reason i had the idea about the MAP sensor is because this is where GM put it on the LS4 intake, so i figured it should work there. But if it doesnt all i have to do is plug it off and put it in the back. Just trying something new i guess. And because it doesnt cost me anything but my own time to make.
as for the spacers, its hard to tell but they are built on a angle. I know i will need to adjust it more, but wont know to what till i get a part in my hand and line it up. Only reason i thought of this is because often on race engines we use spacers to get intakes to fit heads that dont lien up, or you want to get a little more runner length out of it.
again, if it none of it works i wont be crying over it because i dont have any money into this project. But if it does work, ill be overly joyed that it does.
as for the spacers, its hard to tell but they are built on a angle. I know i will need to adjust it more, but wont know to what till i get a part in my hand and line it up. Only reason i thought of this is because often on race engines we use spacers to get intakes to fit heads that dont lien up, or you want to get a little more runner length out of it.
again, if it none of it works i wont be crying over it because i dont have any money into this project. But if it does work, ill be overly joyed that it does.
08-22-2011, 04:10 PM
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the only reason i had the idea about the MAP sensor is because this is where GM put it on the LS4 intake, so i figured it should work there. But if it doesnt all i have to do is plug it off and put it in the back. Just trying something new i guess. And because it doesnt cost me anything but my own time to make.
And if nothing works, then I'll be crying for you... too many great ideas!
,guess I like to learn the hard way
08-23-2011, 03:10 PM
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You could also keep the line in the factory spot and build an extenson using quick connects and a such. You would have to have the fuel rail feed facing the front of the car.
08-24-2011, 11:57 AM
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i dont know if the pic will work here, but i took one of my stock setup. im guessing what your doing is bending the hard line straight as you can and just hooking it up to the new feed area. thats all i wanted to confirm, i know how the line connects, but was unsure if you just bent the hard line. I obviously dont want to break the hard line, so im just trying to see what exactly you guys have actually done to move the feed location. does the line rotate at the connector closest to the master cylinder? and even if it does, doesnt it need to be straightened out to reach back along the firewall to the new location?
09-02-2011, 10:51 AM
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i got the first piece done, took a few little tweaks to get it to this point but it fits like a dream now and bolts right in. ill get another pic later of it bolted in without the map sensor attached to it. The intake spacer isn't too far off either, but needs more time to get it closer, and the TB adapter looks good as well, just need to make the final prototypes to see how it all bolts up.
09-02-2011, 09:39 PM
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On my piece, not very easy. Could use a little wiggle room. It actually hold the sensor down pretty good. The stock setup is pretty loose and easy to remove.
11-03-2011, 05:46 PM
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so i slacked off on this for some time now. but finally decided to finish up one of the parts. so today i made some last adjustments and printed it out. here is what i have.
on top there is a GM style hold down, but it lets the connector sit pretty loose, so im gonna take it down a little to make it a little more secure. and there is a hole for the bolt the use to hold the EGR on.
on the bottom ive opened it up to allow the sensor to be in the open air and unshrouded. i also put in a receiver groove to fit the original GM gasket that was in the hole with the egr. snug fit and seals it all up.
here is the adapter installed in the hole, with the bolt holding it securely in place.
and finally the map sensor installed
cant wait to actually get this on the car now, and hope all the time invested wasnt a waste.
on top there is a GM style hold down, but it lets the connector sit pretty loose, so im gonna take it down a little to make it a little more secure. and there is a hole for the bolt the use to hold the EGR on.
on the bottom ive opened it up to allow the sensor to be in the open air and unshrouded. i also put in a receiver groove to fit the original GM gasket that was in the hole with the egr. snug fit and seals it all up.
here is the adapter installed in the hole, with the bolt holding it securely in place.
and finally the map sensor installed
cant wait to actually get this on the car now, and hope all the time invested wasnt a waste.
11-10-2011, 07:36 AM
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I think it's almost there. I split it up so I could just do 2 1/2" sections of the adapter plate. The LS1 side fits the intake good, the LS4 side needs a little work. Biggest issue is I need to pull the throttle body off my car to check anything with it. It all lines up good, but I want to add recesses to put either nuts or the GM threaded inserts in the back side for the bolts. Also am still working on getting the GM LS4 TB gasket to fit better in the adapter piece. But it's pretty close to being ready to bolt up.
11-16-2011, 03:57 PM
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Well I have what I believe robe the final prototype for the MAP sensor adapter, I'm going to fit it up tonight but all the little tweaks I wanted are in it and should be good to go. Unfortunately unless someone local has a swap they want to try it on, it'll have to wait till I do mine to see how it works.
I picked up the gaskets I needed to finish up the design of the TB adapter today, so I can get back pluggin away on that soon.
I picked up the gaskets I needed to finish up the design of the TB adapter today, so I can get back pluggin away on that soon.