New Rotors
10-30-2007, 03:42 PM
#1
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New Rotors I'm getting ready to change the rotors and pads on my monte carlo front and back. Just wondering if anyone knows what all the bolts should be torqued at and if anyone has a HOW-TO or any sort of tutorial and any special tools i'll need. Thanks guys! Also if anyone has any tips on painting there cailipers aka what kind of paint how many coats , thx
Last edited by Sint3k; 10-30-2007 at 03:49 PM.
10-30-2007, 06:46 PM
#4
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No...they don't. I just used a medium channel locks.
I can't remember what size bolts the calipers and brackets had...but a standard ratchet/socket set would be suffient, plus the C-clamp or channel locks, as kpssmonte suggested.
As far as the torque numbers go...i don't know...i went by feel.
Here's the write up:
1. Crack beer - drink
2. Loosen lugs and jack car up
3. Remove wheel
4. Secure w/jackstand(s)
4a. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap - syphon some out if necessary
5. Remove caliper bolts
6. Hang caliper to side with coathanger
7. Crack 2nd beer
8. Remove caliper bracket bolts
9. Remove rotor
10. Install new rotor after deglazing surface w/sandpaper or steel wool - hold in place with 2 lugs
11. Reinstall caliper bracket (this is where torque specs come in...or feel")
11a. Crack 3rd beer - drink
12. Using old pad, press pistons inside of caliper using clamp or channel locks
12a. Remove caliper slide pins from caliper and coat with brake parts lubricant
13. Install new pads in calipers after rubbing brake lube on backsides of pads and on piston ring (anywhere metal will touch metal).
14. Reinstall caliper
15. Bleed if necessary (brakes or from knuckles...doesn't really matter)
16. Drink and move to other side
I think i got all the important stuff in there.
I can't remember what size bolts the calipers and brackets had...but a standard ratchet/socket set would be suffient, plus the C-clamp or channel locks, as kpssmonte suggested.
As far as the torque numbers go...i don't know...i went by feel.
Here's the write up:
1. Crack beer - drink
2. Loosen lugs and jack car up
3. Remove wheel
4. Secure w/jackstand(s)
4a. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap - syphon some out if necessary
5. Remove caliper bolts
6. Hang caliper to side with coathanger
7. Crack 2nd beer
8. Remove caliper bracket bolts
9. Remove rotor
10. Install new rotor after deglazing surface w/sandpaper or steel wool - hold in place with 2 lugs
11. Reinstall caliper bracket (this is where torque specs come in...or feel")
11a. Crack 3rd beer - drink
12. Using old pad, press pistons inside of caliper using clamp or channel locks
12a. Remove caliper slide pins from caliper and coat with brake parts lubricant
13. Install new pads in calipers after rubbing brake lube on backsides of pads and on piston ring (anywhere metal will touch metal).
14. Reinstall caliper
15. Bleed if necessary (brakes or from knuckles...doesn't really matter)
16. Drink and move to other side
I think i got all the important stuff in there.
10-30-2007, 06:50 PM
#5
I had some free time so I scanned these.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/front.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear1.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear2.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear3.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/specs.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/front.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear1.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear2.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/rear3.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ne78/specs.jpg
10-30-2007, 07:30 PM
#6
LS1Tech Sponsor
No...they don't. I just used a medium channel locks.
I can't remember what size bolts the calipers and brackets had...but a standard ratchet/socket set would be suffient, plus the C-clamp or channel locks, as kpssmonte suggested.
As far as the torque numbers go...i don't know...i went by feel.
Here's the write up:
1. Crack beer - drink
2. Loosen lugs and jack car up
3. Remove wheel
4. Secure w/jackstand(s)
4a. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap - syphon some out if necessary
5. Remove caliper bolts
6. Hang caliper to side with coathanger
7. Crack 2nd beer
8. Remove caliper bracket bolts
9. Remove rotor
10. Install new rotor after deglazing surface w/sandpaper or steel wool - hold in place with 2 lugs
11. Reinstall caliper bracket (this is where torque specs come in...or feel")
11a. Crack 3rd beer - drink
12. Using old pad, press pistons inside of caliper using clamp or channel locks
12a. Remove caliper slide pins from caliper and coat with brake parts lubricant
13. Install new pads in calipers after rubbing brake lube on backsides of pads and on piston ring (anywhere metal will touch metal).
14. Reinstall caliper
15. Bleed if necessary (brakes or from knuckles...doesn't really matter)
16. Drink and move to other side
I think i got all the important stuff in there.
I can't remember what size bolts the calipers and brackets had...but a standard ratchet/socket set would be suffient, plus the C-clamp or channel locks, as kpssmonte suggested.
As far as the torque numbers go...i don't know...i went by feel.
Here's the write up:
1. Crack beer - drink
2. Loosen lugs and jack car up
3. Remove wheel
4. Secure w/jackstand(s)
4a. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap - syphon some out if necessary
5. Remove caliper bolts
6. Hang caliper to side with coathanger
7. Crack 2nd beer
8. Remove caliper bracket bolts
9. Remove rotor
10. Install new rotor after deglazing surface w/sandpaper or steel wool - hold in place with 2 lugs
11. Reinstall caliper bracket (this is where torque specs come in...or feel")
11a. Crack 3rd beer - drink
12. Using old pad, press pistons inside of caliper using clamp or channel locks
12a. Remove caliper slide pins from caliper and coat with brake parts lubricant
13. Install new pads in calipers after rubbing brake lube on backsides of pads and on piston ring (anywhere metal will touch metal).
14. Reinstall caliper
15. Bleed if necessary (brakes or from knuckles...doesn't really matter)
16. Drink and move to other side
I think i got all the important stuff in there.
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
10-30-2007, 11:38 PM
#7
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Yeah! I use the C-clamp and Miller Lite method.
Can you even fit a torque wrench in there? I suppose if you turn the wheels. I tap on the allen wrench w/ a hammer, not too hard, just to get it tight.
Can you even fit a torque wrench in there? I suppose if you turn the wheels. I tap on the allen wrench w/ a hammer, not too hard, just to get it tight.
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10-31-2007, 08:45 AM
#8
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Jabronie...that's gold! Thanks!
Is that specifically for the 2006+ Impala/MC, though? I know the process may be the same from year to year, but the torque may differ at the same time.
Is that specifically for the 2006+ Impala/MC, though? I know the process may be the same from year to year, but the torque may differ at the same time.
10-31-2007, 10:05 AM
#9
Buff yeah that is from the 2006 Monte/Impala Helm manual.
I use the C clamp with a block of wood. Just make sure you put something under your car or remove some brake fluid if it is full. Or it is going to go all over the garage floor.
I use the C clamp with a block of wood. Just make sure you put something under your car or remove some brake fluid if it is full. Or it is going to go all over the garage floor.
10-31-2007, 12:12 PM
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Been there, done that! What a mess!
However, i did note that i may have screwed up the position of the "squealer" tab. Not sure if i put it where it says to do so. Ah well...they still stop!
However, i did note that i may have screwed up the position of the "squealer" tab. Not sure if i put it where it says to do so. Ah well...they still stop!
05-09-2008, 10:46 AM
#12
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For those of you who have replaced the pads did you need new springs/clips? I guess I should buy them to be safe, really annoying when you have the wheels off the car and find out you cannot installed the brakes because one of the old clips is broken. Not that I have ever had that happen.
I guess I should just get some to be safe.
I guess I should just get some to be safe.
05-09-2008, 01:26 PM
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I'm changing all my rotors after 16K. I had the fronts cut once but they warped again. I'm banking that the pads are still decent as I will reuse them.
05-09-2008, 02:08 PM
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I was surprised how well/long the rotors held up. I had them cut at 7k and 12-13k and they're still decent at 35,xxx now. Drilled/Slotted rotors will be going on as soon as I can pull the trigger on the deal. $400 is being dropped in my lap soon, and added to another $300 or so in "savings" 
this will fund my brakes and a few other small mods.
this will fund my brakes and a few other small mods.
05-09-2008, 02:53 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
I was surprised how well/long the rotors held up. I had them cut at 7k and 12-13k and they're still decent at 35,xxx now. Drilled/Slotted rotors will be going on as soon as I can pull the trigger on the deal. $400 is being dropped in my lap soon, and added to another $300 or so in "savings" this will fund my brakes and a few other small mods.
this will fund my brakes and a few other small mods.Just called them and they said it doesn't matter
Last edited by Sint3k; 05-09-2008 at 03:05 PM.
05-09-2008, 03:14 PM
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Yeah, I heard the same thing about the slots. I prefer the look of the slots facing the back of the car (when at the top of the rotor)...same with the holes, obviously.
Yes, I plan to go with R1, but still debating on the "cooler" looking Premium line ($350 shipped) or the eLine @ $250. I want to paint the hat of the rotor anyway, so I might as well go with the Premium's, I think.
Yes, I plan to go with R1, but still debating on the "cooler" looking Premium line ($350 shipped) or the eLine @ $250. I want to paint the hat of the rotor anyway, so I might as well go with the Premium's, I think.
05-09-2008, 03:21 PM
#18
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Yeah, I heard the same thing about the slots. I prefer the look of the slots facing the back of the car (when at the top of the rotor)...same with the holes, obviously.
Yes, I plan to go with R1, but still debating on the "cooler" looking Premium line ($350 shipped) or the eLine @ $250. I want to paint the hat of the rotor anyway, so I might as well go with the Premium's, I think.
Yes, I plan to go with R1, but still debating on the "cooler" looking Premium line ($350 shipped) or the eLine @ $250. I want to paint the hat of the rotor anyway, so I might as well go with the Premium's, I think.
