LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Arp Head studs or bolts

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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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Default Arp Head studs or bolts

Hey im in the process of building my lt1, im going 383 with forged eagle crank hbeam rods and mahle fully coated pistons. im also going with eagle 4bolt mains and arp studs. i wnt to go with arp head studs but the machine shop said i should go bolts. the reason they gave me was possible clearance problems and said they leak has anyone had problems with the studs?
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 02:13 PM
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Depending on your power goals stay with the bolts if you can. Studs leak on LT1's if not sealed properly. Do a search and you will see. I run studs but I have to with the power I have.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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I'm running the ARP bolts with my LE2 set up. Stick to the bolts as mentioned.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Bolts here also, Much easier and less chance of leaking...
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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although i do agree stay with the bolts i dont understand why people cant get studs to seal. sealant on the stud and screw it in until it seats flush with the "shoulder". im assuming people do the finger tight method and some dont quite seat. granted i only have about 1k miles on motor but i have no seeping or leaking issues.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FlamingChicken
although i do agree stay with the bolts i dont understand why people cant get studs to seal. sealant on the stud and screw it in until it seats flush with the "shoulder". im assuming people do the finger tight method and some dont quite seat. granted i only have about 1k miles on motor but i have no seeping or leaking issues.
It is hit and miss. Some leak.........some don't. My last engine we tried everything in the book and it would only seal up with some NASA grade aviation stuff.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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Not to highjack in any way, but what is the threshold on bolts? When is studs necessary over bolts? Just wondering because i am still in debate between buying them.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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Just a guess here but I would say anything over 600rwhp would need studs.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Studs here, 25,000 miles with them on my daily driver. All my engines have head studs, never had leaks. Use this stuff, nice and sticky:
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Studs here, 25,000 miles with them on my daily driver. All my engines have head studs, never had leaks. Use this stuff, nice and sticky:
Thank you much sir. I had the same question and you convinced me to go studs.

Where can you find that sealer??
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
Studs here, 25,000 miles with them on my daily driver. All my engines have head studs, never had leaks. Use this stuff, nice and sticky:
When your blockwas bored did they use the studs on the torque plates? Or did they use bolts?
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jditlfm
When your blockwas bored did they use the studs on the torque plates? Or did they use bolts?
From what i've always been told ^^^^^ this is key
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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My block’s never been out of the car, let alone bored with a plate.

Studs allow you to make up the torque using fine threads with proper lube on them to get a more accurate torque reading. It’s better than getting your torque level from coarse threads coated with sealant into the block.

Installed correctly with good sealant on the block end there’s no reason studs should leak.

You should all get the book, "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" and live by it.
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