What it's worth?
What it's worth? 95 Pontiac Trans Am $5000.00
I'm thinking about buyin it. .The motor is blown. Guy said it slung a rod. Here is the mods, roughly.
TEA CNC'd heads. Flowed 263int 220exh. @.550
Comp Cam CC-7-008
.510int. .520exh dur. @.50 230int. 236exh. 112ls
58mm Holley TB
Stock Intake
TNT Plate system w, bottle warmer, window switch.
Fully Suspended minus K-member. All BMR.
Adjustable QA1 shocks all the way around
E-Cutout
Fuel Tank Sump
Rebuilt T-56
Spec 4 clutch
Moser 12 bolt w/4.10 gears
Weld drag lites 15x3.5's and 15x10's w/ slicks
17" street wheels w/555r's in rear
Newly repainted
Dynoed 391hp and 362tq @ 5900 n/a
Dynoed 559hp and 599tq @ 5900 nitrous assisted w/150 shot
Timing was retarded 4 degrees all the time to run the nitrous.
What do you think it's worth, considering the heads are not damaged and if the heads are damaged? The guy wants $5000.00
-Thanks
I'm thinking about buyin it. .The motor is blown. Guy said it slung a rod. Here is the mods, roughly.
TEA CNC'd heads. Flowed 263int 220exh. @.550
Comp Cam CC-7-008
.510int. .520exh dur. @.50 230int. 236exh. 112ls
58mm Holley TB
Stock Intake
TNT Plate system w, bottle warmer, window switch.
Fully Suspended minus K-member. All BMR.
Adjustable QA1 shocks all the way around
E-Cutout
Fuel Tank Sump
Rebuilt T-56
Spec 4 clutch
Moser 12 bolt w/4.10 gears
Weld drag lites 15x3.5's and 15x10's w/ slicks
17" street wheels w/555r's in rear
Newly repainted
Dynoed 391hp and 362tq @ 5900 n/a
Dynoed 559hp and 599tq @ 5900 nitrous assisted w/150 shot
Timing was retarded 4 degrees all the time to run the nitrous.
What do you think it's worth, considering the heads are not damaged and if the heads are damaged? The guy wants $5000.00
-Thanks
Sounds like a good deal to me. The rear, wheels, and suspension parts are roughly that much.
You missed out on the super cheap LT1 short blocks I was selling not too long ago too. 93 with 118k for $150 and 96 with 36k for $200. That would have had this whole car running for $450.
You missed out on the super cheap LT1 short blocks I was selling not too long ago too. 93 with 118k for $150 and 96 with 36k for $200. That would have had this whole car running for $450.
sounds like alot to me honestly
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
Hmm ... only 391 from a 230/236 cam?
Those heads just don't seem to flow as well as I'd like to see them.
Although, the rear en and suspension parts may be well worth the money.
I'd probably take it, put in a built motor of my choice and part out the old one for what's still usable.
(or take the parts for my own car and part the whole thing out LOL)
If you're lucky, you can save a few things with only minor repairs and make some cash on the deal.
Any idea why it was repainted?
Those heads just don't seem to flow as well as I'd like to see them.
Although, the rear en and suspension parts may be well worth the money.
I'd probably take it, put in a built motor of my choice and part out the old one for what's still usable.
(or take the parts for my own car and part the whole thing out LOL)
If you're lucky, you can save a few things with only minor repairs and make some cash on the deal.
Any idea why it was repainted?
Hmm ... only 391 from a 230/236 cam?
Those heads just don't seem to flow as well as I'd like to see them.
Although, the rear en and suspension parts may be well worth the money.
I'd probably take it, put in a built motor of my choice and part out the old one for what's still usable.
(or take the parts for my own car and part the whole thing out LOL)
If you're lucky, you can save a few things with only minor repairs and make some cash on the deal.
Any idea why it was repainted?
Those heads just don't seem to flow as well as I'd like to see them.
Although, the rear en and suspension parts may be well worth the money.
I'd probably take it, put in a built motor of my choice and part out the old one for what's still usable.
(or take the parts for my own car and part the whole thing out LOL)
If you're lucky, you can save a few things with only minor repairs and make some cash on the deal.
Any idea why it was repainted?
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sounds like alot to me honestly
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
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Bring tools
I bet you get away with paying $4000
Then keep what you need, part the rest out.
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 4
From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Yea, you can always go higher, unless you low ball the person [in general] and offend them. Like my friend offered a guy $600 for this S10 (via email) and so I countered him down to $300 lol He said he'd let me know as he had another potential buyer, so then my friend emailed back saying he'd found something else. So we got it for $300, which has sadly turned into a hassle to get it to idle good, god damn 2.2s lol
SpeedDensityZ is a good friend of mine and originally started the thread for me...I did end up buying the car here are a few pics of it below..
Here is the whole story as I was told..The guy hit a Man Hole Cover and dented the oil pan up pretty good. He drove it from there to a friends house and when he pulled in the drive way he revved the motor up before he shut it off and he started to hear a faint knock and immediately shut it off. He towed it to his moms house a it has sat there for the past month or so.
I got the car home and jacked it up..there are 2 holes in the oil pan very small about the size of a dime. they are both op high right near the pan flange there is one hole on the right side and another straight across from it on the left side. I drained the oil and there are no metal shavings in the oil. I removed the oil filter and cut it open and there are no metal shavings in there either. and the oil has not been changed.
I removed the coil wire and spun the motor over and it spins good with no abnormal noises and sounds like it has compression. so at this point I am not really sure what is wrong with it. Also when you spin the motor over you can look through the small hole in the pan and see the rod come by...
I am going to pull all the plugs out and do a compression check today to see if I have a dead cylinder.
Any Ideas?
SpeedDensityZ can probably chime in here if I left any info out...
Here is the whole story as I was told..The guy hit a Man Hole Cover and dented the oil pan up pretty good. He drove it from there to a friends house and when he pulled in the drive way he revved the motor up before he shut it off and he started to hear a faint knock and immediately shut it off. He towed it to his moms house a it has sat there for the past month or so.
I got the car home and jacked it up..there are 2 holes in the oil pan very small about the size of a dime. they are both op high right near the pan flange there is one hole on the right side and another straight across from it on the left side. I drained the oil and there are no metal shavings in the oil. I removed the oil filter and cut it open and there are no metal shavings in there either. and the oil has not been changed.
I removed the coil wire and spun the motor over and it spins good with no abnormal noises and sounds like it has compression. so at this point I am not really sure what is wrong with it. Also when you spin the motor over you can look through the small hole in the pan and see the rod come by...
I am going to pull all the plugs out and do a compression check today to see if I have a dead cylinder.
Any Ideas?
SpeedDensityZ can probably chime in here if I left any info out...
Looks like a nice car, although not feeling the two tone, but other than that looks nice. I paid $3500 for my car and it was a basket case, needed a drivers door, passenger door needed the outer skin reattached to the inner frame, needed both bumpers repainted, had torn drivers seat, 1/4 panels had tons of door dings that needed pulled, needed a full detail in and out. I would have gladly paid 4-5k for the Trans Am. 
Thanks guys...I feel that 5k was a fair price for the car...I don't think it has a slung rod however I will find out for sure here in a few weeks when I get the motor apart....
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: tampa
sounds like alot to me honestly
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
if it slung a rod the block is done, crank, piston(s), possibly cam and most likely heads
so pretty much you're paying $5k for a rolling chassis with a decent rear. though a 12 bolt is better than a 10 bolt it's not exactly ideal for a t56 setup
doesn't really matter what the car made hp wise since you might need a completely new powertrain
i could see maybe $2500 for it or something around those numbers.
UPDATE:
I pulled all the spark plugs and they all looked good....
I then Pulled the oil pan and behold there is a broken rod...Didn't appear to hurt the block anywhere however I am going to rebuild a complete new bottom end...
From what I can tell the heads and top end is all ok..
Thanks
Matt
I pulled all the spark plugs and they all looked good....
I then Pulled the oil pan and behold there is a broken rod...Didn't appear to hurt the block anywhere however I am going to rebuild a complete new bottom end...
From what I can tell the heads and top end is all ok..
Thanks
Matt