View Poll Results: what oil do you use for your cam car or h/c/i ltx or lsx and why?
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 43. You may not vote on this poll
what viscosity of oil are people running out there
02-03-2009, 04:14 AM
#22
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Double digit posts and still looks like I am the only one who has done any meaningful research on the topic.
MEASURED RESULTS, which means so little to you all, shows a specific 0w-30 to be the best for an LT1 or LS1 and believe it or not it is THICKER than the popular 5w-30 and 10w
MEASURED RESULTS, which means so little to you all, shows a specific 0w-30 to be the best for an LT1 or LS1 and believe it or not it is THICKER than the popular 5w-30 and 10w
And considering most of the wear and tear occurs upon startup and during warmup, I wouldn't suggest "ignoring" the first number. Especially if your being proactive about seasonally changing your oil.
Last edited by suzookiegsxr; 02-03-2009 at 04:26 AM.
02-03-2009, 05:19 AM
#23
Look at the link above, then tell us if you can admit you are the one uninformed.
The 0w-30 I am talking about is a LOT thicker than say a M1 10w-30.
Yor ignorance is typical, most people don't know a correct thing about oil.
The owner's manual allows 10w-30 down to 0F so the cold start benefits of 5w-30 must not have been that critical.
The 0w-30 I am talking about is a LOT thicker than say a M1 10w-30.
Yor ignorance is typical, most people don't know a correct thing about oil.
The owner's manual allows 10w-30 down to 0F so the cold start benefits of 5w-30 must not have been that critical.
02-03-2009, 03:47 PM
#26
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ive been running RP 10w-30 and havent had any problems and im cammed with stock heads.
anyone use lucas synthetic oil additive either? i always wondered about that stuff.
anyone use lucas synthetic oil additive either? i always wondered about that stuff.
02-03-2009, 05:00 PM
#27
I should not have said "ignore" the first number, I should have said do not split hairs worrying about 0w/5w/10w, they will all work fine at the temps we will subject our cars too.
The "flows faster at startup" thing often quoted is a bit missleading since the oilpump's design is positive displacement, restriction does not substantially hamper it's flow, rather raises pressure, there are two/three bypasses in the system one of which is in the pump itself and recirculates oil back to the pickup. Point being unless you exceed the pump bypass pressure a set volume of oil goes up through the motor at a given rpm. Short story oil is moving uptop unless idle pressure exceeds pump bypass spring pressure which is going to be 45-70lbs depending on the spring.
The other bypass is at the filter adapter and allows the filter to be bypassed if there is too much restriction and often the filters themselves contain another bypass in case of restriction, both of those keep oil going through the motor just maybe not through the filter media, dirty oil IS better than no oil. Though the only way no oil will happen is if there is a blockage causing the pump bypass to fully open.
Someone prove me wrong, show some evidence, not this "I use X because it is the best" stupidity. Not tell me 0w-30 is thinner than 10w-30, not "I have 150K on the car and it still runs great". That is all wrong. I have a 227K wagon outside, never any extrodinary maintenance at 180K it cranks 195-200psi I fed it cheap dino oil mostly, even Walmart brand. Before you dismiss it as an easy life in a wagon, I weighted my other lesser equipped wagon today, has a low fuel tank, 70lbs sand sausage and my 200lbs *** in it 4920lbs, not a typo wagons have 2.56 or 2.93 gears with 28" tires, that aint an easy life.
This is what I use to determine what is a "good" oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
The "flows faster at startup" thing often quoted is a bit missleading since the oilpump's design is positive displacement, restriction does not substantially hamper it's flow, rather raises pressure, there are two/three bypasses in the system one of which is in the pump itself and recirculates oil back to the pickup. Point being unless you exceed the pump bypass pressure a set volume of oil goes up through the motor at a given rpm. Short story oil is moving uptop unless idle pressure exceeds pump bypass spring pressure which is going to be 45-70lbs depending on the spring.
The other bypass is at the filter adapter and allows the filter to be bypassed if there is too much restriction and often the filters themselves contain another bypass in case of restriction, both of those keep oil going through the motor just maybe not through the filter media, dirty oil IS better than no oil. Though the only way no oil will happen is if there is a blockage causing the pump bypass to fully open.
Someone prove me wrong, show some evidence, not this "I use X because it is the best" stupidity. Not tell me 0w-30 is thinner than 10w-30, not "I have 150K on the car and it still runs great". That is all wrong. I have a 227K wagon outside, never any extrodinary maintenance at 180K it cranks 195-200psi I fed it cheap dino oil mostly, even Walmart brand. Before you dismiss it as an easy life in a wagon, I weighted my other lesser equipped wagon today, has a low fuel tank, 70lbs sand sausage and my 200lbs *** in it 4920lbs, not a typo wagons have 2.56 or 2.93 gears with 28" tires, that aint an easy life.
This is what I use to determine what is a "good" oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
02-08-2009, 12:45 PM
#29
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Most people don't argue with you bc your endless flow of bs isn't worth responding too.
I've been aware of bobtheoilguy for years and it appears you did not read or understand anything other than the "highlights", typical internet dooshbag speedreading over the topics, but not really understanding any of it.
You have just enough information to make an *** of yourself.
02-08-2009, 01:48 PM
#30
without debateing dyno vs synthetic or what weight is "best".
as I posted earlier the builder aka manufacturer of the motor gets my vote to dictate what oil weight is "best". bearing clearances and oil pump output being a HUGE part of that specification.
I have a '09 Ford that specs 0-20 semi-synthetic so thats what it gets. My "stock" cars get 5-30 dino, my "built" 383 gets 20-50 per builder specs.
as I posted earlier the builder aka manufacturer of the motor gets my vote to dictate what oil weight is "best". bearing clearances and oil pump output being a HUGE part of that specification.
I have a '09 Ford that specs 0-20 semi-synthetic so thats what it gets. My "stock" cars get 5-30 dino, my "built" 383 gets 20-50 per builder specs.
02-08-2009, 04:42 PM
#32
Looks like 96capmgr gets the same crap I do on the diesel boards.
The best way IMO to determine what oil works best is to look at HOW it HAS performed for those who have actually used it AND have oil analysis results to show everyone, good or bad.
That cut outs all the bs of "my granpappy has a 77 ford cattle truck with 900,000 miles and he always used X"
Oil opinions are like a holes, everyone has a different and most of them stink!
People fall over themselves to tell me shell rotella is better than DELO 400 and I have pages of UOA results to prove them wrong. DELO 400 for a dino 15-40 kicks shell's *** all over the place. And BTW wouldn't be a bad choice for your guys LT1's, although in my research 0-30 German Castrol is better and more suited to the LT1.
Oh, and you guys wouldn't even think of spending a dime on Royal Purple JUNK if you had seen what I have. But to each his own.
The best way IMO to determine what oil works best is to look at HOW it HAS performed for those who have actually used it AND have oil analysis results to show everyone, good or bad.
That cut outs all the bs of "my granpappy has a 77 ford cattle truck with 900,000 miles and he always used X"
Oil opinions are like a holes, everyone has a different and most of them stink!
People fall over themselves to tell me shell rotella is better than DELO 400 and I have pages of UOA results to prove them wrong. DELO 400 for a dino 15-40 kicks shell's *** all over the place. And BTW wouldn't be a bad choice for your guys LT1's, although in my research 0-30 German Castrol is better and more suited to the LT1.
Oh, and you guys wouldn't even think of spending a dime on Royal Purple JUNK if you had seen what I have. But to each his own.
02-08-2009, 06:41 PM
#33
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...127#Post478127
Whole crap load of Virgin Oil Analysis.
Look at CST @ 100
Higher number is thicker 30 weight ranges from 9.3-12.49.
This refers to oil viscosity at 100degrees Celsius, basically hot running viscosity.
Granted these are some old results but it still demonstrates what I was saying.
taken from that.
Amsoil 3000 5w-30 CTS @ 100 of 12.2
Mobil 1 10w-30 EP dated 4/17/05 CST @ 100 of 10.4
Castrol Syntec 0w-30 "made in Germany" usually comes in around 12.0-12.1
I am just a stupid carpenter but I know how to do research.
Here is the data showing a 10w-30 can be much thinner than a 0w-30. How do you refute it?
Whole crap load of Virgin Oil Analysis.
Look at CST @ 100
Higher number is thicker 30 weight ranges from 9.3-12.49.
This refers to oil viscosity at 100degrees Celsius, basically hot running viscosity.
Granted these are some old results but it still demonstrates what I was saying.
taken from that.
Amsoil 3000 5w-30 CTS @ 100 of 12.2
Mobil 1 10w-30 EP dated 4/17/05 CST @ 100 of 10.4
Castrol Syntec 0w-30 "made in Germany" usually comes in around 12.0-12.1
I am just a stupid carpenter but I know how to do research.
Here is the data showing a 10w-30 can be much thinner than a 0w-30. How do you refute it?
