LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 power help..

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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Default LT1 power help..

Hey everyone I have a 1995 Z/28 LT1. Now I want to convert it to a 383 Stroker. I was wondering what should I get to insure I have the most power? I guess what I am asking is, what mods would go good with this motor to give it alot more horsepower and not hurt the wallet to bad. Please answer with rebuild kits. chip mods, injector sizes. I really want to get out of the low 14's and into low low 13's maybe even 12's thanks you input is most appreciated.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Yeah.... low 13s and 12s are easy to hit WITHOUT a 383 or heads or cam.

I hit 13.1 so far with only a stall, tune, 3.42s, LTs, ram air.

There's still more bolt ons to do too.

If you have a manual, then I'd go 4.10 gears, LTs, intake, tune, and Drag radials and you should easily hit 12s

If you have an auto, then my mods and maybe some 3.73s and rockers and you'll easily hit 12s.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
Yeah.... low 13s and 12s are easy to hit WITHOUT a 383 or heads or cam.

I hit 13.1 so far with only a stall, tune, 3.42s, LTs, ram air.

There's still more bolt ons to do too.

If you have a manual, then I'd go 4.10 gears, LTs, intake, tune, and Drag radials and you should easily hit 12s

If you have an auto, then my mods and maybe some 3.73s and rockers and you'll easily hit 12s.
Well it is a six speed. But yeah the only thing about that though is I drove it to work one day, and while I was in there it started snowing. Now I say this to tell you, I have been having a problem with header bolts staying in it think master muffler stripped them when i had some exhaust work done. Any ways so my motor some how lost two. when I drove it home the car was acting ok but I heard the exaust leak. So out of nowhere my motor started tapping really loud and I looked under the hood and sure enough I seen those bolts out. I had bent my valves or threw a rod... I think. So I am planning on rebuilding the motor and boring it out to a 383. That way when I add mods on to that I can dip into the 11's and 10's if I am smart about it.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
Yeah.... low 13s and 12s are easy to hit WITHOUT a 383 or heads or cam.

I hit 13.1 so far with only a stall, tune, 3.42s, LTs, ram air.

There's still more bolt ons to do too.

If you have a manual, then I'd go 4.10 gears, LTs, intake, tune, and Drag radials and you should easily hit 12s

If you have an auto, then my mods and maybe some 3.73s and rockers and you'll easily hit 12s.
Oh and yeah I do already have the LS1 rear end with 4.10 gears. thanks man
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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Well, you'll hear some loud clicks with an exhaust leak there, so until you fix that you won't know what is going on.

Also, header bolts are notorious for backing out. That's why locking bolts are getting more popular.

Fix that leak and go from there.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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The leak was actually the first think i fixed. The knocking is internal. I had two diff mechanics check it out and they told me new motor or rebuild. so I am rebuilding. Thank God for tax season
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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i would go 355 if it was me. alot cheaper that way you can spend $ on cam and head work. plus all the small things like tb,injectors,rocker,springs, tune and so on.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Yeah but i am planning on buying the whole stroker kit. it should be all there I am not so sure I want to do a 355 cause I am going to be slowly but surely making this a race only car
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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an LS1 rear end isnt any stronger then an LT1 rear.with 4.10`s in it it will break real fast.
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisMcGill2000
i would go 355 if it was me. alot cheaper that way you can spend $ on cam and head work. plus all the small things like tb,injectors,rocker,springs, tune and so on.
There is no heavy cost difference between a 355 and a 383 to justify spending the "difference" on cam and head work, unless you choose to reuse the stock crank (needs to be cut anyway). For just around $300 more you can have the bottom end opened up to 383. Clearancing the block for the rod bolts is all the extra machining that needs to be done, and that is fairly cheap to accomplish.

Originally Posted by 93_z28
an LS1 rear end isnt any stronger then an LT1 rear.with 4.10`s in it it will break real fast.
Gear height doesn't break 10-bolts, traction does. 99% of gear failures are from too much torque and traction - specifically 60'. The other 1% is from install error.

Originally Posted by tallica
I really want to get out of the low 14's and into low low 13's maybe even 12's thanks you input is most appreciated.
You can get into the 12s very easily without touching the stock heads and cam and for cheaper than you might think. My old setup I used simple bolt-ons, a good sticky tire, and a prayer for my 10-bolt and went 12.9 @ 108.5 (headers, gears, big converter, free mods).
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
You can get into the 12s very easily without touching the stock heads and cam and for cheaper than you might think. My old setup I used simple bolt-ons, a good sticky tire, and a prayer for my 10-bolt and went 12.9 @ 108.5 (headers, gears, big converter, free mods).

What Ram says. A customer of mine had a BONE STOCK,less stall convertor and a street tune. BUT, he had all the suspension work done, ran 13.00 flat on motor and with a 100 shot ran 12.02....
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA

Gear height doesn't break 10-bolts, traction does. 99% of gear failures are from too much torque and traction - specifically 60'. The other 1% is from install error.
Physically smaller gears are of course physically weaker. 4.10s will shear teeth before 3.23s.

IMO in most cases traction doesnt break 10 bolts, wheel hop does .
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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I know a ls1 rear end isn't any stronger. but when you blew out the lt1 rear end and the nine inch rear gives you a slower ET well an ls1 rear end does fine.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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Ok maybe I am asking the wrong people I already have the the gears I need and I am planning to build the car slowly but right now I am looking for the most horse power I can get from that motor. Then as time goes by I am going to make it into a trailer queen but. I just want opinions on what different combination will do for more horse power don't worry about my rear my trans or anything. I am not looking for those answers I am asking for an opinion on a high horse power 383 stroker. the combination for 480 plus horse. then when I have the horse power what ever is holding that motor back from getting a faster ET I will deal with. But thanks for all the other help. I am starting from the motor and working my way to suspension.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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then look in to AI or Le for there heads and cam packages. what mods do you have right now
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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No mods on the motor yet. the actually am planning on rebuiling the motor so I am gonna put whatever is neccessary to build it. tho only real mods done to it are the 4.10's and the sway bar. nothing to hefty yet.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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then make sure you get all the supporting mods like headers,full exhaust,cai, then your gona want to get 58m tb, injectors. you want to make sure that thing can breathe good.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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ai or le heads and cam combo should make good power with a 383. get them to port your intake to.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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cool, well I am going to do a little more researchand find a good storker kit and i'll take it from there. everyone thank you for you input I will consider the other factors when
I get around to it . If you want to see more on this car as it gets built check out my garage add me as a buddy and what not.
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Old Feb 4, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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Hope you have $6-8K to spend.
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