LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Uh ohh, Oil in opti...

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Old 02-10-2009, 10:06 AM
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Default Uh ohh, Oil in opti...

I did my plugs and wires on my 95 Z on drivers side only, since I'll probably wait till I do my headers to do my passengers side. The front of my engine has always been oily, but not bad so I never thought it would be a problem. When I took the wire boots off the opti I noticed that there was oil like on the terminals. Not sure if it is oil got into the opti from a bad seal maybe or just the oil from outside the engine leaking onto it and somehow got on the terminals. I just cleaned each of the 1,3,5, and 7 terminals before putting my new wires back on. I'm worried that if might fry if its getting inside the opti. My car has 45,000 miles on it, and the water pump and opti had been replaced by the previous owner just before I bought it with 37,000 miles. So I'm guessing around 30,000-35,000 miles they were replaced. Maybe they didn't seal the opti right?
Old 02-10-2009, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by KLaBZ28
I did my plugs and wires on my 95 Z on drivers side only, since I'll probably wait till I do my headers to do my passengers side. The front of my engine has always been oily, but not bad so I never thought it would be a problem. When I took the wire boots off the opti I noticed that there was oil like on the terminals. Not sure if it is oil got into the opti from a bad seal maybe or just the oil from outside the engine leaking onto it and somehow got on the terminals. I just cleaned each of the 1,3,5, and 7 terminals before putting my new wires back on. I'm worried that if might fry if its getting inside the opti. My car has 45,000 miles on it, and the water pump and opti had been replaced by the previous owner just before I bought it with 37,000 miles. So I'm guessing around 30,000-35,000 miles they were replaced. Maybe they didn't seal the opti right?
Most likely it's oil leaking onto the opti, not in it. If it was actually getting inside, you'd know it. Regardless, it's a problem that should be addressed eventually. You should save up and get a bunch of gaskets and knock em all out in a weekend. Oil pan gasket, timing cover set, rear main seal, and maybe valve cover gaskets. Then hopefully you'll be leak free for a long while.
Old 02-10-2009, 10:37 AM
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^good call!
Old 02-10-2009, 10:47 AM
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Yea I should probably order all new GM gaskets but how hard is the rear main to do? I was planning on maybe taking the engine out this fall and rebuilding it all winter, all cleaned up and painted with new gaskets and an LT4 hotcam swap. Nice and clean and a bit more power. Do you think I should wait till then and drive it all summer? Could it wait, Its my daily driver.
Old 02-10-2009, 10:53 AM
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Yea it can wait. Just don't put a lt4 hot cam in, when you do pull the motor. there are much better choices out there imo.
Old 02-10-2009, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by KLaBZ28
Yea I should probably order all new GM gaskets but how hard is the rear main to do? I was planning on maybe taking the engine out this fall and rebuilding it all winter, all cleaned up and painted with new gaskets and an LT4 hotcam swap. Nice and clean and a bit more power. Do you think I should wait till then and drive it all summer? Could it wait, Its my daily driver.
I've never had any problems with Felpro gaskets from AZ, just a heads up. The rear main is a task if you haven't dropped a tranny before. But if you are handy with a wrench and you have a good write up on hand, and a buddy to help, you can do it. I don't know how bad your leak is, if it's not pissing all over the floor, then you are probably fine for another summer, but I can't guarantee you anything. I would also read up on some cam swap choices. At the min, I would recommend my set up for a DD. I'm running a CC503.
Old 02-10-2009, 11:04 AM
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Good call, I was going to say the cc503 as a min. The op should read the sticky on cam selection.
Old 02-10-2009, 11:24 AM
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Yeah, I'll look into cam choices towards the end of the season. I like the idea of using a GM part for a cam but I guess the gains outweigh it with a CompCam.
The oil leak is not bad, just wet on the front of engine and the sway bar has oil on it. But it isn't a leak that leaves oil spots where I park or even drips. I probably should lay off the 1/4 passes though or is it fine? I can't resist testing it out after I get my headers and duals in!
Old 02-10-2009, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by KLaBZ28
Yeah, I'll look into cam choices towards the end of the season. I like the idea of using a GM part for a cam but I guess the gains outweigh it with a CompCam.
The oil leak is not bad, just wet on the front of engine and the sway bar has oil on it. But it isn't a leak that leaves oil spots where I park or even drips. I probably should lay off the 1/4 passes though or is it fine? I can't resist testing it out after I get my headers and duals in!
If nothing is dripping, I wouldn't be afraid to let her rip.
There is nothing wrong with using non GM labeled cam. Even the GM847 is not a GM cam, its ground by Crane Cams for GM. I don't know who ground the hot cam, but it might not have been GM either.
Old 02-10-2009, 02:31 PM
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You might want to look into the speed inc. "cadillac" cam down the road. There are m6 cars layin down 310whp w/ no tune on stock manifolds with this cam.
Old 02-10-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
You might want to look into the speed inc. "cadillac" cam down the road. There are m6 cars layin down 310whp w/ no tune on stock manifolds with this cam.
Yeah, if you want a sleeper, its probably a great choice...but who wants a sleeper? Who wants stock manifolds? Not me.
Old 02-10-2009, 02:42 PM
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^You can put lt's on and tune it, then it would put down 340whp. Pretty solid numbers imo. But I get your point, and I agree, thats why I have a 383 lol.



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