JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

I have my rearend swung down with the shocks and sway bar disconnected, exhaust is removed, panhard bar removed, and I still don't have enough room to get the filler neck past the lip on the chassis. It is hitting the panhard bar mounting bracket and I am having a hell of a time getting it out. I should have just cut the access panel but I didn't want to hack up my car. Anyone have any ideas or tricks to get enough room to clear the filler neck.

lifeisgood

iTrader: (4)

shoulda cut the damn thing.lol ive done two cars by dropping the tank and ive done two cutting. the cutting is a million times easier. theres no easy way for that thing to come out

sepno77

iTrader: (5)

u could still cut it and would be safer now that the pump is hanging

95 TA - The Beast

iTrader: (2)

you either have to have the car on a lift, or if it is on jackstands you need to make sure the rear end can swing down far enough, which most times requires you to remove the torque arm to accomplish this, and, depending on how high teh chassis is form the ground you may need to remove the wheels off the rear axle to get it to swing down low-enough...

Regardless it si still a PITA to get it out, no doubts there... They really should have made the filler neck a two-piece with a coupler... Would have made dropping the tanks so much easier...

I have done about 5-6 fuel pumps all while dropping the tanks. I figure if the factory wanted an access panel for the fuel pump it would have put one in there, and really the only way to do with without compromising the uni-body is to drop the tank, cut out the access hole, frame it in, weld in supports and mounting flanges for the door to go back in and fab a proper door... Then seal it and make sure it is done right... At that point the tank is already out and honestly I think the largest majority of just about anyone is really only looking at doing this whole dance once per car...

Now on mine I just removed the intank pump, made a pickup and run a large external... talk about easy pump changes... Well, except for all the gas that comes out due to gravity-feeding the pump...

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

This debate has been slung back and forth for years.

Just cut the hole, IMO. I've done it dozens of times. I'm not an automotive engineer, but removing a 10" by 8" piece of 1/16" sheet metal and then screwing back in a THICKER stronger piece is not going to cause your car to fall apart.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

the thing about that though, unless you weld it back in than that patch is only as strong as your fasteners and for those who put 6 sheet metal screws in there to hold it down, you might as well have left the hole there. I noticed that the torque arm was keeping the rear end from swinging any further so I guess I will have to drop the torque arm, and the LCAs and get the rear end completely out of the way.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Until you actually do it will you realize that that part of the body doesn't hold much stress anyway. You'll see that the reinforcing ribs don't even extend to where you cut. If you still doubt it, then shore your car up with some SFCs. Like I said, I've done it on my own car, several friends cars, and a low 10-second LS1 car. Until someone provides me proof that removing the pump through the hatch is detrimental to the unibody of my car, I will continue to keep on doing it.

No one has ever backed up the negatives with facts.
Hundreds have backed up the positives with facts.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

I am not debating that it would be easier and more than likely no one would ever know the difference. In my case I just didn't want to hack up my car, not for strength purposes mainly for aesthetics and resale even though it probably wouldn't affect it. Back to the original topic, is there any tricks to gettin ghtis thing out of there or do I just take the rear end right out.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

+6776897598654 on cutting it.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I used a piece of 1/8" steel and secured it with 16 sheet metal screws and painted it to match. It looks clean.

Anyway, can't help you on the other issue. Sorry.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Did you take out the panhard rod brace or just the panhard rod? In my experience I had to take out the brace too.

sepno77

iTrader: (5)

wow all that trouble of tearing the car all apart just cause don't wanna cut a lil hole that won't effect anything. here i have an idea for you, just take the whole car apart and put it all back together to do the fuel pump. that way there will be absolutely nothing in your way.

lifeisgood

iTrader: (4)

ha ha i knew a guy with a 10sec s/c car that left the whole there.
he nevercovered it back up.lol

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I never covered mine.

sepno77

iTrader: (5)

lmao less wieght...i used gasket maker and just covered it up w/ the rug on mine

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

In all seriousness, you still should cover it back up. CO isn't a fun gas.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

aesthetics? why do you have no carpet? if not no one will ever see it or know about it..

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

I made a writeup for this early last year but it looks to be long gone (photobucket). The higher the car in the air the better and you just need to spin the neck around or the whole tank for that matter. it takes time but a lil elbow griss and its mint.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

As well as the usual suspects; shocks, sway bar, panhard rod, you have to disconnect the torque arm and I removed the driveshaft as well and also left the brake line bracket hang for a little bit more room, let the rear end hang ALL the way down until the E-Brake cables are taught and wiggle it outta there. It was a PITA but it is done, and my car is no worse off because of it.

ozzman98

just bend the filler neck. its a steel tank. and when u reinstall it just bend it back. only took me and hour in an out with my old 97 camaro