LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause a slow start condition.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-18-2009, 10:53 AM
  #1  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default Can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause a slow start condition.

Still trying to determine my slow start condition when the motor is warm. Fuel pump is building adequate pressure and the injectors and the filter are new.

Can a flakey FPR cause a slow start condition when the motor is warm? Cold start is not a problem.
Old 02-18-2009, 12:17 PM
  #2  
TECH Veteran
 
BALLSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,903
Received 87 Likes on 78 Posts

Default

yes. pull the vacum line off and if there is any sign of fuel on it...the FPR is bad
Old 02-18-2009, 01:10 PM
  #3  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
 
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,188
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ******
yes. pull the vacum line off and if there is any sign of fuel on it...the FPR is bad
+1 on the test, if you see or smell fuel, likely the diaphragm for the fpr is faulty. Also what fuel pressure are you getting (prime, cranking, idle, WOT)? Does it hold or does it drop off to zero quickly?
Old 02-18-2009, 01:44 PM
  #4  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
+1 on the test, if you see or smell fuel, likely the diaphragm for the fpr is faulty. Also what fuel pressure are you getting (prime, cranking, idle, WOT)? Does it hold or does it drop off to zero quickly?
Idle was around 39. WOT was around 43. Holds pressure steady for over an hour (engine off) but will bleed off overnight although that might be the gauge.
Old 02-18-2009, 01:55 PM
  #5  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
 
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,188
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wrd1972
Idle was around 39. WOT was around 43. Holds pressure steady for over an hour (engine off) but will bleed off overnight although that might be the gauge.
Sounds like fuel pressure is not your problem. Maybe get your ICM tested.
Old 02-18-2009, 06:17 PM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Update.
Pulled the vac line of of the FPR. No leaking gas or smell.
Checked the pressure again. Vac line on make 40#, vac line off makes 45#.
Pressure remains steady after the motor is turned off, no bleed off.

It would appear that the FPR is perfectly fine. I will look at the ICM.
Old 02-18-2009, 07:03 PM
  #7  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

Maybe check the temp sender. Last week I had one flake out on my wagon. Car actually acted like a fuel or spark problem, intermittent misses while running, HARD hot starts etc. When I hooked up the laptop the coolant temp was bouncing around faster than O2s.

Basically this caused the computer to command completely wrong fuel and spark.
Old 02-18-2009, 07:18 PM
  #8  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Maybe check the temp sender. Last week I had one flake out on my wagon. Car actually acted like a fuel or spark problem, intermittent misses while running, HARD hot starts etc. When I hooked up the laptop the coolant temp was bouncing around faster than O2s.

Basically this caused the computer to command completely wrong fuel and spark.
Thanks for the advice. I have a scanmaster in the dash. If I monitor the coolant temp and it appears stable (not bouncing), would this indicate that it is likely working properly.
Old 02-18-2009, 07:23 PM
  #9  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
 
96capricemgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,975
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

Long as the temp it is registering seems reasonable.
Old 02-18-2009, 08:04 PM
  #10  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Okay the temp sensor appears fine. It checks out with the scanmaster and shows no ill behavior. Now what? Coil?
Old 02-18-2009, 08:14 PM
  #11  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Formula350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

You could have a fuel pump going out, if ALL it does is takes longer to start in cold AND hot conditions. The check ball/valve inside could be stuck/bad and that lets fuel drain back into the tank. So when you goto start it, the system has to prime again each time. While driving though, it's fine since the pump is always running.
Old 02-18-2009, 08:17 PM
  #12  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Formula350
You could have a fuel pump going out, if ALL it does is takes longer to start in cold AND hot conditions.
Cold motor starts immediately. Warm motor, after 20 minutes takes up to 5 seconds or so. If the check valve in the pump were bad, would it not want to bleed off the pressure at the rail. After even an hour or two, it still shows about 40#.
Old 02-19-2009, 12:34 PM
  #13  
TECH Veteran
 
BALLSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,903
Received 87 Likes on 78 Posts

Default

did you check the vacum elbow imediately after starting or cranking for signs of fuel?
Old 02-19-2009, 12:47 PM
  #14  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ******
did you check the vacum elbow imediately after starting or cranking for signs of fuel?
Yeah did that to. It showed no signs of gas.
Old 02-19-2009, 01:25 PM
  #15  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
 
Ihasfip's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, Texas
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I know someone said it, but did you check the ICM yet?

D
Old 02-19-2009, 06:32 PM
  #16  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Formula350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wrd1972
Cold motor starts immediately. Warm motor, after 20 minutes takes up to 5 seconds or so. If the check valve in the pump were bad, would it not want to bleed off the pressure at the rail. After even an hour or two, it still shows about 40#.
No it wouldn't hold pressure.
Old 02-20-2009, 11:04 AM
  #17  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Okay,
I am going to shift gears here a bit.

I left the fuel gauge on the fuel rail over night. It read 0# pressure this morning. I went to start it and it fired up immediately and ran perfect.

Yesterday I drove it for 20 minutes the parked it. Went out 30 minutes later and checked the gauge. The pressure dropped from 40# to 30# and when I went to start it cranked for about four seconds before starting.

I waited another 20 minutes, repeated the above procedure and got the same result.

I waited even another 20 minutes but this time I turned the key to on, off then on, off then on to prime the line three times. The motor fired up immediately. I think this rules out anything electrical.

HTF can it fire immediately cold with no rail pressure but not fire immediately when its warm and has 30# on the rail.

I am going to plum the fuel pressure gauge into the outlet side of the filter tonight and let it pressurize to see if it holds steady or bleeds off. This will rule out the FPR and the injectors and I can go from there.
Old 06-25-2010, 01:13 PM
  #18  
Teching In
 
Turtle64b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Port Orchard, WA
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Old thread I know, but did you ever figure out the issue? I have the same problem, but I have a different engine. Maybe I have a similar cause. Thanks.
Old 06-25-2010, 02:14 PM
  #19  
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
wrd1972's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 4,649
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Not really. Its just a minor annoyance that I deal with.

Cold start, fires fast with no drama.
Immediate hot re-start. No drama.
Hot restart after 20 minutes or so. It stumbles a couple times and then smooths out.
Old 06-25-2010, 03:19 PM
  #20  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (36)
 
ss.slp.ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 8,188
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by wrd1972
Not really. Its just a minor annoyance that I deal with.

Cold start, fires fast with no drama.
Immediate hot re-start. No drama.
Hot restart after 20 minutes or so. It stumbles a couple times and then smooths out.
Did you ever replace your ICM as advised? If not, I would do the ICM mod (space the ICM off the cylinder head), I imagine it would clear up your hot start issue.


Quick Reply: Can a bad fuel pressure regulator cause a slow start condition.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:59 AM.