LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Oil pressure going down ....WTP!!!!

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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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Default Oil pressure going down ....WTP!!!!

Im have been looking for an answer for my problem for a while now and i got pretty much no where. My 95 TA stock, oil pressure goes down with hard acceleration, but only when the car is warmed up. it drops a lot. the biggest problem is i am itching so bad to install my new heads cam intake package from AI but i need to identify and fix this problem first. I was told it could be my crank bearings going out(when the oil gets hot its seeping through the bearing and not creating all that pressure) and the other one is because i have a stock oil pan and pump which is starving my lt1 of oil when accelerating. I just would like to know what you guys think, i really dont want to build my lt1 then it crap out on me 2 secs down the road. AND NO IM NOT DOING A LS! SWAP.....smart *****. Thanks
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Well, not sure exactly what's wrong with it but, you didn't cheap out ont he top end. Go ahead and do a bottom end build. Get some nice forged pistons, rods, stud the bottom end and run the stock crank and it should be able to handle at least a 150 shot on top of the 400+ wheel horse power your making without breaking the bank too badly.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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how low is the pressure dropping? if you have oil in the pan it could also be your pickup, pump, or just sending unit.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:02 PM
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its like 8-10
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
Well, not sure exactly what's wrong with it but, you didn't cheap out ont he top end. Go ahead and do a bottom end build. Get some nice forged pistons, rods, stud the bottom end and run the stock crank and it should be able to handle at least a 150 shot on top of the 400+ wheel horse power your making without breaking the bank too badly.
im at summitracing.com right now, you think ill be able to get a nice forged piston package there if not what do you suggest and where do i purchase one??? Im going to get a new electric water pump and 52mm TB while im at it

Last edited by 95TransAm_ToM; Feb 18, 2009 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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I have a new engine and my oil pressure has been great until a few days last week when I noticed my oil pressure went from 50psi at idle to a bit above 20psi and it wouldn't go up so I got scared and was thinkin I screwed my engine again turns out it was the oil viscosity went to ****..(Oil temps hit 250 degrees a few times). I changed my oil and pressure is back again above 50 could be ur problem. I would suggest you get another op gauge on there to confirm your pressure and check the oil for any metal !
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburnerZ28
I have a new engine and my oil pressure has been great until a few days last week when I noticed my oil pressure went from 50psi at idle to a bit above 20psi and it wouldn't go up so I got scared and was thinkin I screwed my engine again turns out it was the oil viscosity went to ****..(Oil temps hit 250 degrees a few times). I changed my oil and pressure is back again above 50 could be ur problem. I would suggest you get another op gauge on there to confirm your pressure and check the oil for any metal !
i did change my oil, no shinny, but it was dirty, so my dash oil pressure gauge may be screwed
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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I know they have a complete rotating assembly for like 1500.00, Eagle 4340 crank, 4340 H-beams, and Mahle forged pistons with plasma moly rings and all the rod and main bearings. I think that's a good deal. I also know advanced induction has a kit with Compstar H-Beams and Mahle pistons( Use your own crank) for 1095.00. That's a start.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Could be your pick up.I would try to test oil pressure with a aftermarket gauge.Does the pressure go up when you rev it sitting still?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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I would put a new sending unit on it first and see if that fixes it. I've seen a lot of sending units report bad oil pressure, where they replace it, and it's all fine and dandy.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Do you have an oil cooler??? Mine would drop from 40 to about 30 when hot at WOT. I removed the oil cooler and now I have 60 WOT and 45-50 when the spring releases. I run 10w40 in my car because it has 120K miles on it, but give that a try.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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sounds like what happened right before I chewed up a rod bearing
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
I know they have a complete rotating assembly for like 1500.00, Eagle 4340 crank, 4340 H-beams, and Mahle forged pistons with plasma moly rings and all the rod and main bearings. I think that's a good deal. I also know advanced induction has a kit with Compstar H-Beams and Mahle pistons( Use your own crank) for 1095.00. That's a start.
Sounds good, but i think i found a short block for almost the same price
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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It sounds like you are about to spin a bearing. You said in your first post your car was stock, but in the first reply someone said you're making over 400rwhp...? Which is it?
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Purple95Z28
It sounds like you are about to spin a bearing. You said in your first post your car was stock, but in the first reply someone said you're making over 400rwhp...? Which is it?

He stated he had an Advanced Induction H/C package waiting to go on the car. That will make it above 400whp. I was simply stating that he should have a good bottom end to go with that good top end since the car had high miles on it.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 11:07 AM
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oil pick up could have come off, or you spun a bearing.
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