Finishing up the 396, couple ???
03-13-2009, 01:24 PM
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Finishing up the 396, couple ??? I'm about ready to finish up my 396 project but I had some questions. First of there's a guy I know who is selling me a 4.3 baby LT1, I a wondering are pretty much all the bolts and external parts the same as the regular LT1? I needed some bolts from it, for example rear main seal bolts, bolts to intake mani, and maybe the ones to the pulleys. Next question is, do I have to angle torque the heads? and is it difficult? It said to angle torque them in the LT1/LT4 rebuild book. Thanks in advance
03-13-2009, 01:31 PM
#2
I'm about ready to finish up my 396 project but I had some questions. First of there's a guy I know who is selling me a 4.3 baby LT1, I a wondering are pretty much all the bolts and external parts the same as the regular LT1? I needed some bolts from it, for example rear main seal bolts, bolts to intake mani, and maybe the ones to the pulleys. Next question is, do I have to angle torque the heads? and is it difficult? It said to angle torque them in the LT1/LT4 rebuild book. Thanks in advance
Torque-angle torquing is a more acurate method of fastening anything because it uses bolt stretch, rather than torque alone to reach the required clamping force. For a 396, I wouldn't use anything short of ARP head studs though.
Last edited by ss.slp.ls1; 03-13-2009 at 01:52 PM.
03-13-2009, 01:52 PM
#5
Yes, besides the displacement, it is identical.
Torque-angle torquing is a more acurate method of fasting anything because it uses bolt stretch, rather than torque alone to reach the required clamping force. For a 396, I wouldn't use anything short of ARP head studs though.
Torque-angle torquing is a more acurate method of fasting anything because it uses bolt stretch, rather than torque alone to reach the required clamping force. For a 396, I wouldn't use anything short of ARP head studs though.
ARP head bolts would work fine. IMO, studs are too much of a hassle when bolts will work just the same. If you use ARP head bolts, tighten them in sequence in 3 passes: 1st - 20lbs, 2nd - 45lbs, 3rd - 70lbs.
03-13-2009, 01:54 PM
#6
It should be noted that this method is only to be used with torque-to-yield bolts (i.e., stock replacement).
ARP head bolts would work fine. IMO, studs are too much of a hassle when bolts will work just the same. If you use ARP head bolts, tighten them in sequence in 3 passes: 1st - 20lbs, 2nd - 45lbs, 3rd - 70lbs.
ARP head bolts would work fine. IMO, studs are too much of a hassle when bolts will work just the same. If you use ARP head bolts, tighten them in sequence in 3 passes: 1st - 20lbs, 2nd - 45lbs, 3rd - 70lbs.
I have used both ARP bolts and head studs. Either one is better than stock. But from what I have read, the studs are better than the bolts for a more uniform clamping of the head to the block.
03-13-2009, 03:51 PM
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My builder who did my 396 short block recommended ARP head bolts instead of studs. Their claim is studs will cause more core shift than bolts. I followed their advice, have bolts and all has been well. Granted I am not running any crazy cylinder pressure at this time. Just Cometic gaskets and all is well for over a year and counting.
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03-13-2009, 04:06 PM
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My builder who did my 396 short block recommended ARP head bolts instead of studs. Their claim is studs will cause more core shift than bolts. I followed their advice, have bolts and all has been well. Granted I am not running any crazy cylinder pressure at this time. Just Cometic gaskets and all is well for over a year and counting.
You think felpro 1074's will hold up to a 200 shot nitrous, Or perhaps a little more?
