Why not eagle 383 crank????????
 

What problems have you run into with the eagle stroker kits with the cast crank? Building a 383, found a eagle kit on ebay for $720.00 that is already balanced,uses stock damper just have to neutral balance flywheel. Anyone used this kit from SUPER ENGINE BUILDERS? If not eagle what crank are you running? THANKS

There have been several instances of them failing under 1,000 miles. I have seen this first hand. Their cast pieces leave much to be desired in terms of quality.

Eagle is essentially the bottom of the barrel when it comes to crankshafts.

I'm not sure if the problem lies within their cranks themselves, or the balancing, or even a little of both. I know people who have both had great experiences and terrible ones with eagle and the main difference b/t the two is one ordered a prebalanced kit while the other had it balanced sperately at a local shop (one with the good result).

For the money they might seem like a really good deal, but in the end you do get what you pay for. Might want to look at Scat though, similar price, but suppose to be a little higher quality.

My $02 is go with a forged crank. Cast eagle broke in 2k mi.

Cast eagle is only rated to around 500 flywheel(or 600,I forget) and that is assuming correct machining and balancing (which is where most problems come from). Many more aggressive builds will reach or pass that. Ignore what the crank says, ALWAYS have a machine shop check and balance your crank no matter who makes it. I would not say scat is any better, and they actually rate themselves at 100hp less then what eagle does IIRC. The factory crank is stronger then a lot of cast aftermarket stuff.

Their forged crank is a different story and will stand up against more power then 99% of us will ever make. Spend the extra bit and go with that.

yes definitely go to a good shop to get a rotating assmebly balanced....I know for my rotating assembly my scat crank had quite a bit of material removed to get a good balance

Doesn't matter what crank/rotating assy. you buy off the internet, whether it's used or new and claimed to be balanced, you always spend the money to have the balancing checked out by a good machine shop. You are asking for trouble if you skip that step to save money.

Absolutely!

For $720 basically every piece will be of stock quality and LESS.

i have seen an eagle cast 383 crank that was balanced by a machine shop break just before the first rod journal. of course it was being pushed pretty hard. shifting at 6800 rpms. so the moral of the story is he should have bought a forged crank...

Mine sheared off after the last rod journal. I had a really nice block that it took a toll on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...KECRANK004.jpg

damn that sucks. i have one i turn to 7500 with no problems. been in there 3 yrs. i think there is good ones and bad ones. just like anything.

I agree they seem to be hit or miss. I thought I would be fine but that wasn't the case for me.

Everyone has their preferences, but my experience is nothing but positive with Eagle. I have a eagle rot assembly in my 383 (fully forged of course) and did have it balanced again by my builder back in the day. Bout' 15K on it and 10 years. Works flawlessly and I'd recc. Eagle anyday.

i have an eagle crank. the lightweight pendulum cut unit. just the crank cost close to what that entire rotating assembly kit on ebat goes for. sent all my parts out for balancing. no complaints here. guess its just a you get what you pay for type of thing. i think those cheap eagle kits on ebay are really giving the company a bad rep.

You guys think maybe, just maybe there is a difference between a under $200 cast crank quality and a $600+ forged light weight unit, and that maybe in a span of a decade their QC could have changed???

Failures like Fergy's are not as uncommon as you may think(I still cringe when I see that pic!). Damage that severe pretty much had to be from a flawed part or the crank was dropped at one point in time, maybe during shipping. Cast is VERY brittle and dropping or overtorqing cast parts can cause tiny cracks that fail in a very dramatic fashion later on. IIRC his build was pretty close to what they rate the crank at, but not so high powered to explain why it sheared like that.

They are really ment for stockish street car rebuilds under 500 flywheel but are sometimes used in too aggressive setups, or are not balanced/machined properly(or at all) before hand. They have their spot in the market, but its not for performance applications...just for people who want some cheap cubes on their rebuild.

True. I have a feeling though that eagle is getting a bad rep when it's not really a bad company. Some poeple are just using the wrong parts for their applications like you said above. For example if you're using .560 max lift springs on a .600 lift cam and something breaks you shouldn't blame the spring company and say they make poor quality parts. Not trying to start an :engarde: or anything.

...but the thing is there are people here who use .600 springs on nasty .60X lobes and just because some false prophet tells them it is OK they blame the company when they started breaking.

I do think you have something of a point with things being missapplied but I have seen Eagle cast issues/failures in weak setups, strokers that made under 350rwhp, others have no problems so I think there is an element of hit and miss.

Mine sure as heck wasn't making 500 horsepower.