killagt

iTrader: (3)

if my car never lose oil even after 3k miles drive, im good right ?

buffman

iTrader: (9)

If you don't want it to leak again Use Ultra Copper or "THE RIGHT STUFF". Nice thick bead. That little tube won't do.

BTW do yourself a favor and blue loctite the manifold bolts. I took my manny off after 4yrs (to swap to a powdercoated one) and the bolts were still as tight as the day I smeared blue goo on them, and torqued them down. DON't **** around, do it right the first time around.

1996firebirdformula

iTrader: (3)

Was finishing up the gasket replace torque them down and it snapped 2nd bolt off on passenger side into head. what best way to remove it?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I don't know about you all, but there's plenty of RTV in that "tiny" tube. I've used it 3 or 4 times now with no problems, including my 383 build I just finished.

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

I snapped a cam retainer bolt doing mine and thought I was screwed since it broke on an angle and had red loctite on it.. got some small easy outs and a left hand drill bit and tapped an indent in the center of the bolt w/ a punch to get it started right then took the LH drill bit to it and never even had to use an easy out (thanks ls1tech!)

enjoi355

iTrader: (3)

x2, ive done it 3 times and i thought that it was enough, no leaks
first time was because i wanted to paint my manifold
second was because i put a 58mm tb and didnt want to "port" the manifold on the engine
third was when i put my 355 together

plus iirc doesnt the felpro set come with injector o rings so you can unbolt the fuel rails??

buffman

iTrader: (9)

it may be enough, but black RTV sucks compared to Ultra Copper or TRS.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

is it required to drain your coolant before taking your intake off?

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

how the hell did that happen??!! the bolts only need to be torqued to 35ft pounds.

nope. If you still have the coolant flowing through the TB just a little bit of coolant will drip out. Nothing that requires to drain coolant. Otherwise its a dry intake

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If you haven't done the throttle body bypass, you should lower the coolant level below the throttle body to prevent spilling coolant when you disconnect the TB coolant hoses.

If you've already done the bypass, you won't need to drain a drop.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

good to know...tb bypass has been done for a long time but i was reading the steps in a manual and it said to drain the coolant and i was confused so i thought id ask

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

nope. we did my iintake manifold, valve cover, and oil pan gaskets and we didn't touch the cooling system. i still have my throttle body cooling lines in place so we just unbolted the TB and left it in the engine bay.

xbcrguy182x

Make sure you label all the vaccum hoses and wires.

davros

Two questions.....what is the best size BEAD of RTV to apply along the surface area and after applying it someone said to let it wait 24 hrs. Is that simply applying the BEAD and allowing it to gel first and then lay the manifold on the block for twenty four hours allowing the weight to settle it and then snug the bolts with a final torque after?? I'd Like to do it right the first time. Thanx for the great info. !!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I've always just applied from a tube of Ultra Black w/out the plastic applicator. Bead is about a 1/8" thick if I were to guess. What is meant by waiting 24 hours is after the manifold has been torqued, to wait that long for the sealant to cure before starting the engine. I've applied both ways- either waiting for bead to gel a little or just putting the manifold on immediately after applying sealant with success either way. The secret is to make sure all surfaces are spotless and to drop the manifold square onto the engine w/out moving once manifold is placed on the engine. And as already stated, make sure to check the torque of your manifold bolts after a few heat cycles.