LT1 heads/cc 306
08-01-2009, 09:16 PM
#1
LT1 heads/cc 306 I am looking to put the cc 306 in my Z, it has the stock lower end with some boltons. will i have to port the heads or no, will the stock ones with new springs and all that? And what would be a good set of rockers, (1.5 or 1.6? the car has 103,000 miles on it and has never been beat on, my dad got it new and he never got it above 4g's or 100mph, he babied the **** out of the car. i was also planing on running a (ported LT1 intake)( i ment to say this, not the lt4) with this with the 58mm TB. what do you think? sorry for all the Confusion.
Last edited by 95sscamaro; 08-03-2009 at 02:29 AM. Reason: to clear some stuff up.
08-01-2009, 09:48 PM
#2
o.k., forget the LT4 intake, you don't need it, plus it's not going to fit correctly with LT1 heads, LT4's had raised runners. The only head work you really need is all stuff you should be able to do yourself. I don't know where you got the impression that you might need to replace the heads? Honestly, your post needs more info.
So, all that you really need considering that you don't have junk for heads is some good beehive springs, the retainers and keepers for them, some good screw in studs (optional) but recommended, and guide plates depending on what you're using for rocker arms. If you are using self aligners, then you don't need the guide plates, however with the PAC 1218 to get close on the install height you need the Comp 795 retainers and 613 +.050 locks which is gonna place the retainer very close to the top of the valve. This means that you won't really have enough room for self aligning rocker arms thus making necessary the aforementioned guideplates and non self aligning rockers. SHOO, that was a mouthfull!
So, all that you really need considering that you don't have junk for heads is some good beehive springs, the retainers and keepers for them, some good screw in studs (optional) but recommended, and guide plates depending on what you're using for rocker arms. If you are using self aligners, then you don't need the guide plates, however with the PAC 1218 to get close on the install height you need the Comp 795 retainers and 613 +.050 locks which is gonna place the retainer very close to the top of the valve. This means that you won't really have enough room for self aligning rocker arms thus making necessary the aforementioned guideplates and non self aligning rockers. SHOO, that was a mouthfull!
08-02-2009, 09:54 AM
#5
The LT4 heads had TALLER ports, raised sounds like the floor is higher. It is just a much bigger port the floor in the same place the roof higher. The LT4 intake on the otherhand is internally the same as the late LT1 intakes but has more material above the port to seal to the taller head ports on the LT4. So it would be of no benefit on an LT1 and if you grind off the extra material to make it fit an LT1 then you just ruined an LT4 intake for NOTHING.
Now given that train wrech of an idea that was don't you think it would be wise to go and rethink your whole project and maybe try and get something right?
Maybe try and meet this guy at the track or something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-429rwhp.html
Now given that train wrech of an idea that was don't you think it would be wise to go and rethink your whole project and maybe try and get something right?
Maybe try and meet this guy at the track or something.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-429rwhp.html
08-03-2009, 11:22 AM
#6
I don't think it was a train wreck of an idea, I think he has a typical cam only setup in mind. There was a bit of confusion tho.
Anyway, most people run the 1.6's rockers with that cam, you'll also need a good tune and a stall/gears if you're auto. I 've always like the Comp pro mags. Also I wouldn't bother to port or have ported the stock intake at this point, you could do more harm than good, meaning if the runners become larger than the runners in the heads yhe air will get well...ugly, lol.
Anyway, most people run the 1.6's rockers with that cam, you'll also need a good tune and a stall/gears if you're auto. I 've always like the Comp pro mags. Also I wouldn't bother to port or have ported the stock intake at this point, you could do more harm than good, meaning if the runners become larger than the runners in the heads yhe air will get well...ugly, lol.
08-03-2009, 12:09 PM
#7
Port your heads, Leave the intake alone, 58mm TB (might be overkill, but it won't hurt anything), 1.6 NSA 7/16" Pro Mags, quality valve springs, guideplates, 7/16" rocker arm studs, hardened pushrods, taller gears, higher stall converter (if auto), and a good tune.
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08-03-2009, 09:39 PM
#8
theis is were i was getting the intake idea (would it work?)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
they wouldnt port the intake runners on the heads when they do the heads? what about a fuel pump/injectors? also what about the Timing Chain and Gear Set, GM HD or the stock?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
they wouldnt port the intake runners on the heads when they do the heads? what about a fuel pump/injectors? also what about the Timing Chain and Gear Set, GM HD or the stock?
Last edited by 95sscamaro; 08-03-2009 at 09:50 PM.
08-03-2009, 10:42 PM
#9
I would not run the 306 on a stock cube, stock head build, but to each his own.
Shame that is the "typical cam only build" for LTXs
.
EDIT:: Is it just my browser acting up or did slp jack my sigpic? o.O
Shame that is the "typical cam only build" for LTXs
.EDIT:: Is it just my browser acting up or did slp jack my sigpic? o.O
08-04-2009, 03:34 PM
#10
I am running a 306 on a stock motor, full bolt ons. It made 346/347. It really lacks power below 3 grand, which is where gears help it. If I could do it over again I would do a 503, or something with more power down low, but my 306 pulls like a mother above 5 grand thats for sure.
08-04-2009, 03:41 PM
#11
theis is were i was getting the intake idea (would it work?)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
they wouldnt port the intake runners on the heads when they do the heads? what about a fuel pump/injectors? also what about the Timing Chain and Gear Set, GM HD or the stock?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
they wouldnt port the intake runners on the heads when they do the heads? what about a fuel pump/injectors? also what about the Timing Chain and Gear Set, GM HD or the stock?
I am running a 306 on a stock motor, full bolt ons. It made 346/347. It really lacks power below 3 grand, which is where gears help it. If I could do it over again I would do a 503, or something with more power down low, but my 306 pulls like a mother above 5 grand thats for sure.
08-04-2009, 06:57 PM
#12
I agree that the 503 is a much better choice for a street driven stock cube LTX
08-04-2009, 07:14 PM
#13
how much does a 503 setup usually make? i made 348 whp with a 306 and not even all the bolt ons. it wasnt bad at all to daily and really shined when you need it the most in a race, 4-7k rpm. in a real world race situation when do you ever see rpms below 4k or so? not enough to complain about no low end. And if you ever decide to do heads the cc306 will really shine over a 503. like i said above i made 415/368 to the wheels on a cc306 and ported stock heads
08-04-2009, 07:21 PM
#14
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If it was me I'd run a more "built up" bottom end and some well ported heads and intake with a cc306; otherwise i'd just go with a cc503. But then again, I'm a safety nut and don't want to risk things breaking
08-04-2009, 07:22 PM
#15
how much does a 503 setup usually make? i made 348 whp with a 306 and not even all the bolt ons. it wasnt bad at all to daily and really shined when you need it the most in a race, 4-7k rpm. in a real world race situation when do you ever see rpms below 4k or so? not enough to complain about no low end. And if you ever decide to do heads the cc306 will really shine over a 503. like i said above i made 415/368 to the wheels on a cc306 and ported stock heads
08-04-2009, 09:04 PM
#16
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I dont think theres anything wrong with running the cc306 with stock cubes but if it were me i would definitely port the stock heads and intake for a cam that size. With the supporting valvetrain components(springs, 1.6 rockers etc.) and bolt ons(CAI, longtubes, 58 mm throttle body etc.), that cam should make a good amount of power.
08-05-2009, 03:53 AM
#17
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It all depends on where you want to make power. Daily driver folks will like a XE503 since it's making better low and mid range. Drag racers are going to love a CC306 since it made for high end and will scream down the track. Problem is you get alot of folks who want to daily drive but think they need a CC306, and expect it to drive like a stock cam. Fact is many people dont know what they want because they dont know how things work.
The CC306 with good heads and a 175 shot has been in the 9's, how many XE503's are there? Any or is it None..? How about low 10's, how bout 10's at all?
PS Sometimes a, Shameful "typical cam only build" for LTX's, is all that persons needs or can affod. Custom cams are not the end all, it's much more important to get your setup working together well than to have a custom cam.
-Dustin-
08-05-2009, 11:11 AM
#18
I gotta be honest with you guys, my 233/239 isn't dead anywhere. I realize that we're comparing XE lobes with Magnum lobes but I'm really happy with what I have for as little as it is. I was considering the 306 when I bought the CM233/239 and I talked to them, they said that the bottom end power would be better with the cam I have so I chose it. I'm not at all dissapointed. I ran the equal of a 503 in a Mustang that I had and it was good but I wouldn't change from what I have to a 503 for anything!
08-05-2009, 12:05 PM
#20
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This is just my opinion having driven and ridden in alot of cam, H/C, bolt on and stock Fbody's.
-Dustin-
