Doing intake tomorrow. again..
 

Well, I guess either the copper RTV didn't seal all the way (although I left the car about 24 hours to set) or I missed the little "U" shaped part of the back of the intake manifold (where it goes around the oil pressure switch location). Either way, it's still leaking oil - and I suspect it's the intake again since I can see oil around the oil pressure switch area (I have a 93 so there is a plug in the hole instead of a switch).

My question is, should I use "The Right Stuff" from permatex, or give the copper RTV another shot? My friend is a tech at a mustang shop and he loves "the right stuff".

Also, (unorthodox idea) but what about applying either RTV or right stuff on the intake itself instead of the block? Obviously allowing it to set a bit. That way I can't miss any spots. Anyone have any helpful pics of their own methods? I do not want to do this a 3rd time.

That's a good idea...it's more of a pain to reach back there to get the rtv evenly spread. Thats what I did and it was a cleaner install. I'd suggest sticking with the rtv and make sure you bolt the intake down right!

I bolt the intake down per GM specifications. So you put the rtv on the intake?

Either will work, you probably just smeared it when you set the intake down. What I do is use 4 of those blue plastic alignment/retaining oil pan dowels that come with a new Felpro oil pan gasket. They will screw right into the four corners of the heads. Then I apply the rtv, thick bead extending 1" up each head. The I hold the intake manifold over where it is supposed to go and I have a buddy bend the little plastic dowels as I lower the intake until the dowels are slipped into the 4 corners of the intake. Then you can drop it down slowly and it will seat perfectly over the engine.

Dowels seen here:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a73...E/DSC00836.jpg

Right stuff FTMFW.
All other RTV is shit.

Also get two scrap bolts that are like the ones that bolt the intake down. Cut the two bolt heads off to make studs. Thread them both into ONLY ONE SIDE of the head and use them to guide the intake down and into position. This will keep you from smearing or moving the RTV when setting the intake.

Torque to GM spec.
Done.

That's the method I used (using the dowels). It sat perfectly. I'm hoping I just missed the actual intake and just RTV'd away from it lol.

Well redo it and make it look like this:
http://www.ellweinengines.com/ERE16/final8.jpg

I have used regular black rtv, copper rtv, and right stuff. All have worked without issue.

JMHO but I would consider those beads of RTV in the pic to be a bit on the excessive side. Remember that the gap between the intake and the block is around .060" and all those big beads will be displaced when it is torqued down. There is going to be a good deal of squeeze out when that intake is put on.

Worst thing that MIGHT result is dried excessive chunks of squeeze out under the intake breaking off and going down the motor and getting stuck at the oil pump pickup screen. Would that be a big problem? Dont know but why chance it.

1/8" to 3/16" beads are all it takes.

So should I put it on the intake instead?

True, that's not my picture, that's from Ellwein Engines' website.
I use a thick bead, maybe not that thick though.

last time i did the intake, i applied regular RTV (thick layer) let it stand for like 10 mins then put the intake on and torqued it to specs...thats it, no leaking at all

Yeah, I did that too but I still have a leak and fresh oil noticeably behind the intake. I think I applied the RTV too far towards the back of the block (fearing of having rtv fall in the lifter valley when dried) so I might have not even made any contact b/w the intake and block in a small specific spot. That's my guess.

Copper RTV, Right Stuff, other, if you do it right, it will work. One brand of sealant isn't a magical cure.

right stuff works awesome!!!!! Im so glad mine will be going back on B4 the engine goes in.

Right stuff allows you 5 minutes to play with before it fully cures lmao wtf.. Hopefully I can torque it down properly in 5 minutes..

the right stuff will last longer then 5 minutes. trust me i pulled my intake many times and actually once only once i didnt use intake gaskets I KNOW I KNOW I KNOW DONT BASH ME. ITS LONG AND COMPLICATED WHY I DID IT........ but "The Right Stuff" is all i use for sealants and i have never EVER had a problem with it yet.i would highly recomend it.

Yeah, my friend uses the right stuff in place of gaskets on many occasions on his car lmao. that thing doesn't leak one bit.


Anyway, I put the intake and everything back together. Just going through a few heat cycles. I know most of you are going to say I should have left it overnight, but the right stuff cures almost instantly - and my buddy uses at his job and they are one of the most reputable mustang shop in the nation and he's never had a problem with cure time (he just applies it, assembles whatever it is and starts the car right up), so, why should the LT1 be any different? :P

I use the "The Right Stuff" for any and everything, works great. Rear Diff's, intakes, Timing Cover, Diesel seals, all working good. I highly recommend it. When I did the intake during the cam swap I put a little around the head-intake gaskets too, working great.

-Dustin-

Yup. I applied it on the intake surface and the block surface to be safe. So far no leaking. I have yet to take it on a long hard drive, but I made a few 5k pulls down a main road and it doesn't leak, nor do I smell the horrid burning oil smell I would always smell. I'm going to drive it a bit longer in an hour or so and see if it leaks. I hope this was it!

Bah. Still leaks. Not the intake though this time around. It's a significantly smaller leak. It's just 4-5 random ass drips of oil on the floor. It's leaking somewhere and probably trailing off and running down the trans and dripping in random spots. FML. I give up on this lol