FI vs CI, what's better?
08-24-2009, 08:11 PM
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FI vs CI, what's better? So I need some input. You guys that have went with boost, are you glad you did? What about you guys that went with more cubic inches, higher compression, etc..?
Anybody wish they would have done something different?
I am looking for best bang for the buck. I want a fast street machine without being over the top. I don't need to make 700hp and blow the rest of my car up. I want something to stay together decently.
I already have a P600B, but haven't installed it yet. I wonder if this is how I should go. I mean I will need to buy a low compression rotating assembly to make some decent power that will last, right? So would it be better to just build a high compression motor and then I can sell the supercharger?
I need some insight, I hate spending money and regretting it.
Anybody wish they would have done something different?
I am looking for best bang for the buck. I want a fast street machine without being over the top. I don't need to make 700hp and blow the rest of my car up. I want something to stay together decently.
I already have a P600B, but haven't installed it yet. I wonder if this is how I should go. I mean I will need to buy a low compression rotating assembly to make some decent power that will last, right? So would it be better to just build a high compression motor and then I can sell the supercharger?
I need some insight, I hate spending money and regretting it.
08-24-2009, 08:14 PM
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Oh ya, I also drive cross country and would like to have something that I can count on lasting. I don't want to worry about driving from Ohio to Florida and it blowing up. This is why I haven't boosted my 150,000 motor yet.
08-24-2009, 08:18 PM
#3
For <450 rwhp, def go cam/heads/cid/compr.
For 450-550 rwhp, it depends on drivability preference. A 500 rwhp FI combo will be much more streetable than a 500 rwhp NA combo.
At >500 rwhp, it gets to be cheaper to go FI.
For >550 rwhp, you're pretty much stuck with FI.
For 450-550 rwhp, it depends on drivability preference. A 500 rwhp FI combo will be much more streetable than a 500 rwhp NA combo.
At >500 rwhp, it gets to be cheaper to go FI.
For >550 rwhp, you're pretty much stuck with FI.
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08-24-2009, 10:50 PM
#8
Install the P600B I luv my STS kit - once I modded it to improve on the overall design / function, I was quite happy! 11 lbs of boost is FUN!
Install the blower - you will luv it. If possible, set it for the lowest amount of boost while you work out your motor's particular set of issues. For my LT1, it was 13 YO vacuum hoses - I had to replace every one of them. That and my plugs and wires too...
After the thing runs better / correctly, then add a meth kit and up the boost!
Install the blower - you will luv it. If possible, set it for the lowest amount of boost while you work out your motor's particular set of issues. For my LT1, it was 13 YO vacuum hoses - I had to replace every one of them. That and my plugs and wires too...
After the thing runs better / correctly, then add a meth kit and up the boost!
So I need some input. You guys that have went with boost, are you glad you did? What about you guys that went with more cubic inches, higher compression, etc..?
Anybody wish they would have done something different?
I am looking for best bang for the buck. I want a fast street machine without being over the top. I don't need to make 700hp and blow the rest of my car up. I want something to stay together decently.
I already have a P600B, but haven't installed it yet. I wonder if this is how I should go. I mean I will need to buy a low compression rotating assembly to make some decent power that will last, right? So would it be better to just build a high compression motor and then I can sell the supercharger?
I need some insight, I hate spending money and regretting it.
Anybody wish they would have done something different?
I am looking for best bang for the buck. I want a fast street machine without being over the top. I don't need to make 700hp and blow the rest of my car up. I want something to stay together decently.
I already have a P600B, but haven't installed it yet. I wonder if this is how I should go. I mean I will need to buy a low compression rotating assembly to make some decent power that will last, right? So would it be better to just build a high compression motor and then I can sell the supercharger?
I need some insight, I hate spending money and regretting it.
08-24-2009, 10:55 PM
#9
Maybe not... My set of Micronited (might be off w/ the spelling) ring and pinion gears have lasted every WOT power shift I've thrown at them over the last 30 k miles.
Previous to that, I had broken 4 10-bolts (and 5 clutches!) - ALL N/A, before my STS install.
You might want to explore that option.
08-25-2009, 12:26 AM
#11
^yep! I had a procharger on a stock lt1 m6, it put down 426whp on 7lbs. Yes it made power, but other than that it sucked. It heat soaked badly in traffic, the kit was poorly designed. Had remachine bracket pulleys, all new piping and couplers, better blowoff valve, better fuel setup, just about rebuilt the whole kit short of the blower. Then on top of that the ****** 96 pcm would pick up the blower whine and pull timing. so we had to almost disable the knock sensors(wich sucked).
I sold the kit, went 383 na, ported stock heads, custom grind(still the blower cam lol). The car makes better low end tq and almost the same power as the stock motor on 7lbs, and a 100 times more reliable and easier to work on. My vote is na with spray!
I sold the kit, went 383 na, ported stock heads, custom grind(still the blower cam lol). The car makes better low end tq and almost the same power as the stock motor on 7lbs, and a 100 times more reliable and easier to work on. My vote is na with spray!
08-25-2009, 03:23 AM
#12
I've done the FI setup, n/a, and spray. Times in sig with my turbo build on stock heads/cam/intake/tb, very simple setup that was reliable, although not something I would say was easy. That being said, when I built my rx7 I went back to n/a with spray, basically copying my build I had on my formula before the turbo. It's hard to beat a 355 h/c spray car for price and reliability if you want to stay in the 10's or slower.
08-25-2009, 05:03 AM
#15