To run 12's...
 

Went to the track last night and ran a 13.452@103.21 with a .251 reaction and a 2.045 60'. Do you guys think i could get into the twelves with a LT4 hot cam kit with a mailorder tune and a 3000 stall? If so how far into the twelves?

Mods in the sig.

Thanks

You don't need that much to hit 12's. A decent sized stall+tires should get you into the 12's. Maybe look into some basic suspension too like LCA's, Relocation Brackets etc. to really optimize the launch which is how your going to get that 12 second pass.

What Stealth said....3600 stall & MTDRs,you should be there.

i think with that mph your already knocking on it. i would get a set of dr's first and see how much that helps get that 60 foot down. then go with a convertor from there

I see alot of the guys on these forums that get alot of suspension goodies and I've always wondered, is traction really that much of an issue with their cars?

I race a cordova dragway park in Illinois and I dont know if its the track, my car or what, but i am leaving the line at full throttle. I power brake it to 1400 or 1500 rpm and let off the brake when the tree permits, and punch my gas pedal to the floor and i have zero wheel spin. Direct connection.

So tell me, why spend more money on the rear end/rear suspension of my car when traction is not a problem as of right now the way the car is running.

Is it less about traction and more just about sheer launching get up and go?

My car use to dead hook too when it just had bolt-ons but a 2.0 60' is not good and you will need to 60 foot quicker than that to make a car run good for the power it has. I added tires and some suspension still with the stock stall and cut my 2.0's down to a 1.9 60'. I then added a Yank 3600 stall and that got me into the 1.6's. No difference in power along the way but the car ET'd alot faster. From my experience every tenth you shave off a 60' time equates to atleast one tenth in ET and many times more.

Also a stall converter does alot more than just get you off the line quicker. It also raises your shift extension so when the car shifts gears you are more in your power band. When you add a stall to the car, DR's will be mandatory for it to hook. Suspension will keep the car from wheel hopping and press the tires to the ground harder as well as help weight transfer.

Suspension can IMO make or break a car. Many people overlook suspension and that is why so many people run garbage times for their mods. If all you want is a 12 second pass then just get a stall, DR's, and some basic suspension. So later on when you go to add more power you will have the right foundation. Not to mention, having some suspension parts makes the car more safe on the street, once I did suspension the car wasn't so tail happy and when it spun it would spin dead straight.

Try driving M6 at the track!! lol! Youll spin or bog untill you dial the suspension in.

OP DRs and a stall will get you damn close!!

Need to cut those 60' down. A customer of mine had a "Bone Stock" LT1, Less a stall and a lot of suspension work, Street tune and he ran 13.00 Flat...

I've heard of fox bodies running low 13's / high 12's with just suspension, gears, etc.

That was tuning and tuning and tuning a full suspension, then when they got it as fast as it would go they started adding power.

When you guys say LCA's I assume your talking about lower control arms. Is everyone going for an adjustable type or is simply a solid one all you need.

Is rigidity the main goal of going to aftermarket LCA's or are you looking for adjustability?

And are relocation brakets really needed all that much for a car that hasnt been lowered?