10k to spend on an engine
no risk of blowing the engine on a stock PCM...I have a plan in the works to use the OEM PCM and opti, but turn the engine 8K plus. 
now back to the original request it will be a little more difficult to do on a 8K budget if your are set on using the FAST XFI....doubt it can be a "good" solid roller on that $$$.
now back to the original request it will be a little more difficult to do on a 8K budget if your are set on using the FAST XFI....doubt it can be a "good" solid roller on that $$$.
lets assume that i have the FAST XFI
I am a big fan of the LT1, but if I had $10,000 I'd be dropping in an LS3 which would run about $7000 new from GM performance parts. The other $3000 should cover the install.
10k will build a killer iron 6.0 based ls motor and will cover the swap install with a tubular kmember. and may get away with other parts in there too. if shop wisely.
i think im going with a forged 383, ill keep my LE2 heads with all of their hardware (only 5k miles) single plane ported and converted, FAST XFI and a carbed plate kit. im running 11.5 now so i think even just a cam bigger then a 226/230 and a dyno tune (mail order right now) could get me in the 10s.
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theres a saying, its called keep it simple it simple stupid. K.I.S.S.
also remember RPM'S = ruins peoples motors...
i suggest you do just that, build an engine so that you can keep the stock crank, and do a BUDGET build. just do a simple 355, a beefy top end (23*, again, your goal is 10's on motor. EASY), do a single plane, and focus on lightening the car, the fuel system, build it strong and SAFE. that doest mean spend a grand on a crank and another grand on rods...
the parts you're talking about are for a mid 9 high 8 car.
also remember RPM'S = ruins peoples motors...
i suggest you do just that, build an engine so that you can keep the stock crank, and do a BUDGET build. just do a simple 355, a beefy top end (23*, again, your goal is 10's on motor. EASY), do a single plane, and focus on lightening the car, the fuel system, build it strong and SAFE. that doest mean spend a grand on a crank and another grand on rods...
the parts you're talking about are for a mid 9 high 8 car.
i think im going with a forged 383, ill keep my LE2 heads with all of their hardware (only 5k miles) single plane ported and converted, FAST XFI and a carbed plate kit. im running 11.5 now so i think even just a cam bigger then a 226/230 and a dyno tune (mail order right now) could get me in the 10s.
forged 383, FAST XFI, Single plane, bigger cam, same heads isnt simple? if i do a build im not reusing the stock crank and would like to be able to put TFS 21* heads on it sometime in the future without doing a whole build again. car weighs about 3100lbs with me in it, has a Racetronix FP with hotwire kit, full rod end suspension front and rear with a 12bolt with 4.30s in it
yea, thats understandable, but you dont really need to change the fuel tune when you're spraying, and the 6AL-2 can take care of the timing, the timing curve it totally tunable on a laptop. i just see spending 2 grand on engine management as a little bit of a waste. theres alot you can do with an XFI setup, but do you really NEED it?
yea, thats understandable, but you dont really need to change the fuel tune when you're spraying, and the 6AL-2 can take care of the timing, the timing curve it totally tunable on a laptop. i just see spending 2 grand on engine management as a little bit of a waste. theres alot you can do with an XFI setup, but do you really NEED it?
It hits a wall like a rev limiter.
You dont need to go above 7100, cam and gear it accordingly to stay under 7000.
You have a PM.