my ltx "build"
 

To start i got the car in 2008, did some small things such as cai, cat back, lowerd, wheels/ tires. Loved the car, but still was never happy with it. well about 4 months ago the car blew a head gasket..... sounds like a good reason to dump a lot of money into it.
so here is what i have as of now,
pacesetter lt's, ory, and something after that.... not sure what
built T56, spec 3+, spec steel flywheel, pro 5.0 power tower/ short stick
tpis 58mm, bigger mass, "cai" will run straight down into front bumper
aeromotive rail mount reg, walbro 255 OR racetronix 255, even a new filter!!!
i also got a set of weld draglights and studs.
also have done some weight reduction....more to come when i go to the track

NOW this is where all of you come in....
the motor is not done and im not realy sure what to do......
it will have stock heads very well ported and flow checked, along with the intake. I will be useing the car to drive on the street, maybe once a week. other than that it will be for track use. i do plan on nitrous. i want the car to run close to the 11.5x range on motor? is that to much to ask?
YES i am looking to get schooled here.... thats why i use this site
:bang::chug:

IF the heads and cam are genuinely good that should be well within reach, my b-body does it and when there is not snow it gets driven more than once a week. I have seen a LOT of cases of guys being sure they have great heads and in the end the car never works. Not saying that is the case with your's since you didn't really say what you have but it is a COMMON.

Problems I see are the "bigger maf" they usually just cause tuning issues.
The Aeromotive regulator is unnecessary and easily the LEAST RELIABLE for the LT1, guys have lost their cars to fire when those leak. Most of us stick to a stock regulator.



On the fuel pump, the Racetronix and all other quality aftermarket intank pumps for this car are Walbro, the Ractronix kit just fits better than the rest so I suggest you go that route.

With a T56 the problem is going to be launching without breaking the 10-bolt, the shock generated by the manual tranny is pretty rough on that thing. Wheelhop will hurt it too so do the rear suspension, hope for the best.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...0710081336.jpg
this is the car btw.

Sharp car, btw

If the top end is matched correctly, along with the rest of the car, you have no problem reaching your goal.

I've got the Racetronix PnP kit, VERY nice kit and have never had a problem with it.

flyinz, i think im got to go with the pnp as well. i have herd nothing but good from it.
96capricemgr, what do you mean by this? ...Not saying that is the case with your's since you didn't really say what you have but it is a COMMON....


Fill me in.....plz

Who will be doing the porting for you?

X2, it really makes a difference.

local guy with a LOT of experience and a good name for doing some very good work. this is not his first ltx build and all of the previous builds have worked great. he is matching all of my parts to work with eachother. He wants to go with a 396.

Here are 2 more pics for visualization. His engine builder knows what he is doing. He built me a very nice 388 stroker.
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._3672164_n.jpg
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._5283813_n.jpg

I really prefer measured results. I have run into a LOT of guys who thought they had something special yet on the track or even the dyno a whole different story is told.

All your looking to run in is the Mid second range? If so, you won't need a 396 to do that. Hell you can do that with a good set of ported heads with the cam specced just right.. On a stock bottom end. What are your power goals? Budget?

And off topic, but it's CAI Not CIA Sorry, that was bugging me every time I read it. ;)

well i got my block work done and rotating instaled. just went with a 383. with the .026 head gasket im looking for 11.7:1. other than that havent realy done much with the motor its self other than pick cam/rr/springs/ect.. i got my abs! and line lock instaled. got my battery relocation kit installed, arp wheel studs and new brakes on. painted up the engine bay and did some other minor stuff.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build006.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build005.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build010.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build009.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build015.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build019.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...t1build004.jpg

You will like the 383. I have been running mine for one summer now and its been great. I would suggest a new rearend with gears though. Made a huge diffrence for me.

looking good i would strongly recrmend a rear end with that power u should be making and the numbers your going with..this is what happened when i put drag radials on mine with just a couple bolt ons got two passes before it shaddered the spider gears...lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUP3IJF_-N8

ouch!

Ouch is right, lousy 10 bolt, that's why I brought an S60 rear first before making any engine mods.

i do plan on doing 9" in the rear or the s60. not sure yet. i want to rund a 28" tire with a 4:11(or around) gear. as of now the stock 10 bolt will stay in, and yes i know it will brake. but unless someone whats to donate the axle to me it must wait... :eyes:
i also want to do a T/A and move the mount from that trans to the cross member.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...build002-2.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...build006-1.jpg
cut out a plat to cover the factory fuel line location.
i also made a plate where the coolant tank/batt. tray was.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...build003-1.jpg

cut out the center ourtion of the bumber (fog light location) and will run two strips of aluminum from the top to bottem to mount the licens plate/ intake to. plus it makes it look much more agressive...:devil:
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...build004-1.jpg

where did you route the fuel lines? Got pics of it?