words of advice!!!
04-09-2010, 11:41 AM
#42
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hey ed.. not sure where you are going with this...are you just commenting on what i made the first time on the rollers?.. I know dyno to dyno you will get different numbers.. i just know that everyone that has dyno'd before was saying its about spot on.. nobody was giving an exact number they were off by... had everything besides the headers when i pulled last time.. and it needed a tune then.. so my est was with headers and a tune... just an est though... i was prolly going to to let my self down by hopeing so much lol. 
04-09-2010, 03:11 PM
#43
I just meant your estimated 330 rwhp may be hard to come by with a stock LT1. Ever been to a dyno where everybody complained "My car doesn't make this much power!"? Probably not. 
Guys that have Atco NJ, Englishtown NJ, No Problem Raceway (LA) or HRP (Houston/Baytown) for home tracks don't think the track is really fast, they think their car is just fast.
Guys that have Atco NJ, Englishtown NJ, No Problem Raceway (LA) or HRP (Houston/Baytown) for home tracks don't think the track is really fast, they think their car is just fast.
Last edited by Ed Wright; 04-12-2010 at 08:41 AM.
04-09-2010, 06:25 PM
#44
...throwing codes...turning both fans on high and my ses light coming on within 5min of running all at the same time.. ive tryed to figure out what it was but i still have not found an exact problem... any clues without the codes that would cause that?... i was hoping while i was getting the dyno tune it would be able to pull the codes.. im assuming im wrong? lol
If you're starting it cold with no SES light, after a few minutes it'll try to enter closed loop. If it detects a fault, it throws it back into open loop, enriches the A/F ratio so it doesn't go lean and starts running the fans at full speed to keep it cool in what essentially is a "too rich for its own good" condition. The engineering assumption is you won't drive it this way long enough to cause rich condition-related harm to it.
So, bite the bullet and have someone pull the code --OR-- buy an OBDI cable with an RS232 (serial) to hook to your laptop http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd1 and download a free copy of TTS Datamaster http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DataM...downloads.html and pull your own codes as soon as you get the cable.
Common codes at your mileage/ car's background are related to Opti and its wiring pigtail (goes along pass. side of intake below purge solenoid plumbing) and ICM, but could be anything. Maybe a loose sensor plug. :-)
Tuners generally dislike tuning cars with "mechanical issues." If you drop a car with them to troubleshoot/ get right and THEN tune, they're ok but charge you like anybody else would.
04-10-2010, 10:06 AM
#45
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hey gojira... ive already got that cable.. and ive got datamaster and another data logging program that i got for free... i tried using it when i got it.. but i was having troubles with it.. im not that good at operating computer equipment lol ... i will have to learn how to use it better.. i will try sometime this week to get it hooked up to it... and i will post up what codes ive thrown..
04-11-2010, 07:04 PM
#46
yeah maybe even take some of that 400 to a repair shop and get everything you need fixed knocked out at once. if you don't want to do it yourself, then at least you can have some type of warranty on the work and parts replaced
