whats better T-56 with 373's or 410's?
#24
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the 3.73s in my old bolt on car. I was kinda pissed when I picked up the car with 3.73s. I thought there would be a huge difference from stock & there wasnt. At the track it barely made a difference. I agree a 3.90 would be a much better option over the 3.73 but still not enough for me.
#25
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
4.10s ate nice for the track ill agree w that but eventually they WILL break. And on the street traction is limited a lot in first.
3.90s are stronger and help me keep the car hooked up much easier on the street.
Of course I'm not smart enough to start off in 2nd when drag racing like genius boy up here. He must have one hell of a clutch
3.90s are stronger and help me keep the car hooked up much easier on the street.
Of course I'm not smart enough to start off in 2nd when drag racing like genius boy up here. He must have one hell of a clutch
#26
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by gregrob
Both of you have quite radically different setups than a bolt on car.
Depending on the cam / head specs, yes 4.10's and lower is what the car wants.
A bolt on car simply doesn't need it and a cam with lots of tq in the low rpms just makes first gear useless on the street with 4.10's.
Both of you have quite radically different setups than a bolt on car.
Depending on the cam / head specs, yes 4.10's and lower is what the car wants.
A bolt on car simply doesn't need it and a cam with lots of tq in the low rpms just makes first gear useless on the street with 4.10's.
I was running my 4.10's on bolt on only settup.
If first is too short for the street, then start in second.
If first is too short for the street, then start in second.
Who's the genius boy now?? Learn how to read troll.
#27
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lakeland
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
just to be a little more specific. If you have a 93 with the t56 or if you happen to have gotten a 93 tranny somehow, 1st and 3rd gear are different than any later year. Putting 4.10s behind that tranny gearing makes 1st gear just about useless and would be better suited to 3.73s
looks like you've got a 95 so 4.10s will be fine until they break, which won't be long if you put a sticky tire on it.
looks like you've got a 95 so 4.10s will be fine until they break, which won't be long if you put a sticky tire on it.
#28
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milledgeville, GA
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why does everyone keep saying 4.10's will break? I know that our lil ten bolts are weak in general, but why would a 4.10 break so much easier than a 3.90:1 or whatever ratio?
#33
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milledgeville, GA
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Okay, that makes sense, but I didn't realize that these things were that bad that we had to worry about gear teeth count. I thought it was merely overall ring gear diameter/pinion diameter that was the culprit. I guess it all adds up when you have such a small rear. FWIW.....my 61 came stock with a 8.2" drop out center (like a 9") ten bolt that had 17 spline pinion AND 17 spline axles. (large splines on axles). I abused one for years behind a 468 BBC and a stall. Was 4.88:1 on a factory posi. I never had a problem despite EVERYONE familiar with them saying it was gonna blow. I eventually swapped to a 12 bolt, but the old rearend is still good. I've actually thought about swapping one of those into an F-body before. (I have several laying around.) Would be easy to weld a torque arm mount to the housing, No C-clips, larger (marinally) ring gear. I wonder if it would be worth the trouble??
#34
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you serious with the insults guy? How old are you??
And when did I ever say to start out in second gear when racing? I said you can start in second when on the street if you wanted to.
There ya go bud. Maybe now you can see what I'm saying.
And when did I ever say to start out in second gear when racing? I said you can start in second when on the street if you wanted to.
I was running my 4.10's on bolt on only settup.
If first is too short for the street, then start in second.
If first is too short for the street, then start in second.
#36
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know then. All us guys running 4.10's must just be ludicrous then.
And if I'm not mistaken wasn't there a "SGS" or second gear start option offered on a lot of cars in the mid 90's that was used to remedy a loss of traction??
All those GM engineers are probably ludicrous as well.
And if I'm not mistaken wasn't there a "SGS" or second gear start option offered on a lot of cars in the mid 90's that was used to remedy a loss of traction??
All those GM engineers are probably ludicrous as well.
#39
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you guys(gregbob) need to relax you guys are just bickering. For whoever started the post. if you go 410s which i would undoubtabley over 373s make sure you get a GM set. they are much stronger then a set of the cheapies. not saying they wont break cause im sure someone will chime in with a smartass comment. cause they will. make sure to use a new crosspin and c clips when changing them. and if you have the whole axle out for some reason. weld the axle tubes to the housing. dont forget the housing is cast and will need to be heated up with a torch before welding for good penetration. of couse all of that is not neccesary but added insurance in my mind