Help pushin a stockbottom end lt1 into the 10s
 

I need three tenths, which is alot at this level, but I would like to get into the high ten bracket with my 503 cam stock bottom end camaro.

Car has local ported heads with a 503 cam spinning to 6600, hooker lts with a slp cat back, aftermarket oilpan and oil pump for longevity, untouched bearings and bolts on the mains/rods.

Intake tract is totally stock maf, throttle body, intake but does have a moser (i think)cai and 30lb svo injectors.

Trans is origional 4l60 with a shift kit and 3200 vig converter

rear is a moser narrowed 12 bolt with 4.11s spool and 28"mt drag radials

Lightweight stuff, car has strange front brakes and a bmr kmember and wolfe anti roll bar(thanks madman!)

Heres a pic of the beast...lol
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/zpics002.jpg
currently runs 11.30s at 119.5ish
What now? new cam? 52mm throttle body? help...

100 shot?

What's your 60' like? Already done rear LCAs and drag bar to help it hook straight? Slightly bigger TB won't hurt but almost certainly won't be worth .3 by itself. You might hear suggestions to go bigger on the stall, around 3600. Moroso CAI is ok, might want to eliminate that silencer (1LE elbow or a TFS ceramic elbow)

TB + elbow + slightly larger stall + fine tuned launch will get you very close, methinks...

Edit: just saw the anti-roll bar in your post. LCAs?

spray that bitch!

I think he wants to do it N/A, Spraying into 10's is too easy at the ET he's at.

I didn't know you had everything removed under the hood like that, lol. That thing IS pretty light.

!headliner
!visors
!console
!passenger seat
drill out every stupid bracket in the interior, there will be like 4-5lbs worth
grab the sawsall and have at those inner fenders
!door bars
!E brake

shallow stage
get the front tires rock hard
adjust your launch rpm for 3 consectutive runs and pay close attention to the 60ft. You may be surprised at what your car is happiest with.


For $$$$ stuff
ditch the cat-back and run some flowmasters off of each pipe. Flowmasters work extremely well in a blow-through system (not a transverse design like stock f-bod). They are light and relatively cheap. Car will pick up a few top-end ponies and shave about 20lbs easy.
Plastic racing seats. Will save 35lbs on the driver side
I'm sure a smooth elbow might free up 2-3 ponies but.........
I would run some sort of ram air setup ditching the foglights. It will add power up top, especially over 50mph. Mine can be duplicated for about 20bucks.

Here is mine:

https://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a7...s/P6080316.jpg

The rubber piece between the TB and maf is from Lowe's in the pvc section. It is made by fernco, it is like $7,00 or something. The chrome piece is by spectre but you can run dryer tubing which is flexible and will get the job done. After mine goes under the rad support there is a Y piece and then dryer tubing through each of the fog light holes. Tiny filter attached to the Y, but you can run without them at the track. You can honestly make a similarly effective setup for about $20.

What is your 60ft? A 4k stall torque converter would help a lot getting out of the hole and keep your rpm's up higher throughout the run. Might get you close.

60ft is 1.53 zone.

Im thinking about yanking the interior out to see what it will run..lol
I havent hole sawed this car yet because so far all of the light weight stuff hasnt paid off at all :mad: I bought light weight strange front brakes for 600 or so and didnt pick up a single tenth hundreth er nothing. Man was i pissed spending that money for zip. live and learn :D

Hey Joel im thinking about doing a cool ram air airbox like you have but I would need to richen this thing up on top in the tune if it works. I have a afr of 12.8 spikin up to 13.0 at the shift points. I need to figure out how to adjust the tune for a ram air type set up... hmmm

If the MAF is working correctly and the o2's are working correctly you shouldn't have to adjust anything.

Don't go by numbers, go by what the engine wants, I'd say about 95% of LT1;s I tune like the A/F in the 13.0-13.3 Range, LS like in the high 12's..

Hey chas what's your raceweight if you don't mind me asking, impressed with the trap the head guy must know a thing or two

Ill have to weigh the the car and ill let you know.

What about e85 guys? im reading on here my single walbro 255 might not be enough. Does the second pump just go inline?

^what he asked

Very easy :)

Torque converter and suspension.

How do you figure that?

His car is tracking straight and hooking good. Don't need any suspension work if the car is getting everything to the ground. He's running a mild cam. He probably has the PERFECT converter for the setup he has. He needs a few more ponies or a few less lbs. Or just wait until October and hit up the track on a -DA day.

There is a lot more ET left in converter and suspension in this combination. The kids stock internals car stalls way higher and runs 1.4's in the sixty.

There are quite a few cheap things that you can do to optimize what you have. You can start by checking your front end alignment. Are your rotors true? Dump the 30 lb injectors for 24's and have the car dyno tuned. Switch to light weight synthetic fluids from front to back. After that I would think that a good converter will help a lot.

.....and don't waste your money on a throttle body.

Those are already impressive times. A lot more can be had with a bigger stall and full suspension. Do that and see what it runs. Then maybe yank some more weight out of it ;)